Look for M10

Size/Thread: 10MM (M10 X 1.0)
Length: 33mm front / 29.2mm rear

I'd replace them with Speed Bleeders. The ball check valve allows you to bleed them by yourself with no bleeder tool and no other person to either pump the pedal or unscrew and screw in the bleeder.

 

Awesome! Thank you!

Look for M10

Size/Thread: 10MM (M10 X 1.0)
Length: 29.2MM

I'd replace them with Speed Bleeders. The ball check valve allows you to bleed them by yourself with no bleeder tool and no other person to either pump the pedal or unscrew and screw in the bleeder.

 

Broke the easy out in the old bleeder. Looks like I'm buying calipers...

 

Oh schit, dude!

 

Ugh, I know. ? At least I found some Centrics, front and rear for $200 shipped. I just put pads and rotors on and getting the parts together to headers next. It's always something. ?


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So now that I'm replacing my calipers, does anybody know how much brake fluid it takes to do the system? I've got 4 bottles left right now.


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So now that I'm replacing my calipers, does anybody know how much brake fluid it takes to do the system? I've got 4 bottles left right now.

When I do a full flush it takes most of a 32 oz bottle.

 

FYI. Never reuse a previously opened bottle of brake fluid. It absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and you want to keep as much moisture out of the system as possible.
If you buy the one larger bottle of brake fluid you will have more than you need.
I would also recommend buying a vacuum bleeder. They can be had at any parts store for 20 or so bucks. Makes life very easy to bleed them especially when replacing calipers or a brake line where you always introduce tons of air into the system.

Moisture = spongy brakes

Air = brakes possible locking up due to heat expanding the air and pushing the caliper pistons out, thus causing brakes to drag or even lock up.

Best to play it safe and make sure you have bleed everything out so that you have nice new clean fluid throughout the system.

I have seen a more than a couple of people just think its ok to bleed them out once or twice and not see any air bubbles and seal it up and drive. Most of the time that wouldn't cause a problem but if it does your in for a ****ty day.

Also, even if you bleed it with a vacuum bleeder it's always best to go ahead and bleed it the old fashioned way a few times afterwards just to make sure everything is correct and no air got trapped somewhere in the caliper or a brake line.




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The four bottles I have left are brand new and sealed. I understand the concepts of a braking system and I would never put questionable fluid into my rig. You can gravity bleed an ABS system as long as you are watching it closely but I have speed bleeders coming with the new calipers so the risk of air re-entering the line is eliminated. Even with vacuum systems you still have a risk of air re-entering if not done properly. You could make a power bleeder for next to nothing with a few parts from your local hardware store. All I wanted to know was how much fluid it takes to refill the system from empty.


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Sweet thanks. Ordered some.

 

Update!!!! The SB1010S will not work on the front calipers! I just installed my new Centric calipers and they will work on the rear just fine. I didn't get a chance to measure the front but I think the SB1010 will work. If anybody can confirm this it would be appreciated!


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Here is the size difference. I believe the SB1010 will work.


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Going by this pic, you're probably right about the SB1010 for the front.

 

Damn i have the s.

 

Seems the rears are 29mm long and the front 33mm. Why that is, I don't know, but after looking again, some sites list the 33mm (not the s) as front and/or rear. A search for OEM specs of the bleeder screws turned up nothing other than a part number. I haven't found anything that makes it concrete which are for where.

 

Ok, I did some more digging, and what I have are Doorman Speed Bleeders, and they are 33mm long. So, I'm going to edit my first post about length. 29mm is indeed for the rear only.

 

Well looks like you came out lucky tijuana. I broke 3 out of 4. And they are frozen in there so hard i'm most likely gonna need all new calipers. $30 job just turned into $300

 

Same thing happened to me on BOTH calipers. i was doing my spindle lift and whoever messed with brakes last ( bought it used) tightened the bleeder screw WAYYYYYY too tight! both broke off like they were JB welded on or something.

From what ive heard, this happens alot?

 

Brake fluid will cause them to stick so tightly, if the screws weren't correctly prepped or if fluid from a previous bleed was allowed to remain in the threads. And brass isn't the best suited metal for this application.

 

The bleeder screws are actually stainless steel. The threads tend to seize easily because of the heat and yes, the brake fluid. I found an entire set of calipers from carparts.com for around $530 shipped with the core charges. Actual price was about $200 but I think you have to pay for return shipping. I'm out in the sticks so its kind of worth it.


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I ordered the brass ones. They had a choice of brass or ss.

 

Whoops! My bad, I didn't see those....


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