Looks like the end of a coil spring and parts of the spring seat. Check the front springs.
Broken Part on Drive-way
I found a broken part on my drive-way yesterday and have no clue what it is. It was lying under my 2005 Titan LE 4x4. I crawled around underneath but did not see anything obvious. I drove the truck about 60 miles yesterday and did not notice any ill effects. Anyone know what this is?
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Thank you so much. I thought it looked a lot like that but did not notice anything at first glance. Will check it again more thoroughly. They do appear to be in need of replacement.
You're welcome. Hope its an easy fix.
Lmao... Sorry don't mean to laugh.. Do you live in a salt mine?
No worries. And no, do not live in a salt mine. Just bought this truck about 6 weeks ago. Got a bad feeling I will be replacing a lot more stuff shortly. Guess that is what happens when you buy a vehicle after dark. Still seems like a solid truck though.
Ordered 08 4x4 coils and Bilstein 5100's. So at least that issue will be resolved. Wait and see what needs replacing next I guess.
Ordered 08 4x4 coils and Bilstein 5100's. So at least that issue will be resolved. Wait and see what needs replacing next I guess.
6 weeks in and replacing front springs and shocks.
I know the horse has already left the barn, but I'll give the doors a push anyway. Working at an auto shop I am shocked/dismayed/resigned to the fact that many people forego a pre-purchase inspection of a vehicle they are interested in.
I'm not suggesting that one get every car or truck they look at checked, the cost would quickly become unreasonable. If you don't know that much about vehicles, most of us know someone who does and would be willing to go along for the initial viewing.
When one is found that appears to be in good shape then you take it to a trusted garage and get it checked. Very little can hide from the inspection on a hoist by a certified mechanic.
$100 now can save you a bundle later.
If the seller balks at you having it inspected, walk away.
I know the horse has already left the barn, but I'll give the doors a push anyway. Working at an auto shop I am shocked/dismayed/resigned to the fact that many people forego a pre-purchase inspection of a vehicle they are interested in.
I'm not suggesting that one get every car or truck they look at checked, the cost would quickly become unreasonable. If you don't know that much about vehicles, most of us know someone who does and would be willing to go along for the initial viewing.
When one is found that appears to be in good shape then you take it to a trusted garage and get it checked. Very little can hide from the inspection on a hoist by a certified mechanic.
$100 now can save you a bundle later.
If the seller balks at you having it inspected, walk away.
Yeah, I am no mechanic by any stretch but I know enough to be dangerous. I checked the body thoroughly for rust and the other parts I could see. It was dark cause I didn't get off work till 5:00 and by the time I got to the lot, it was dark. I did check all the fluids and they didn't appear to be recently changed but were full. I drove it for about 20 minutes and got on it pretty good and didn't notice anything a miss. Interior was in great shape. The bed was great shape. So it appeared to be a really well kept truck from what I could tell. I ran through all the 4WD settings and no weird noises. No idiot dash lights were on. Engine was almost spotless. I just simply missed the undercarriage, which I couldn't see. In hindsight, probably should have taken or asked for a flashlight. Lesson learned.
I take a flashlight with me to look at cars. If I am buying from a dealership I ask them to put it on a rack and let me look underneath. I have never had a dealer refuse, they want to sell cars.
You will love the 5100's. One of the best mods you can do for your Titan!No worries. And no, do not live in a salt mine. Just bought this truck about 6 weeks ago. Got a bad feeling I will be replacing a lot more stuff shortly. Guess that is what happens when you buy a vehicle after dark. Still seems like a solid truck though.
Ordered 08 4x4 coils and Bilstein 5100's. So at least that issue will be resolved. Wait and see what needs replacing next I guess.
I have all the parts in and an appointment on Tuesday for install. Still not 100% sure which setting on the Bilstein's I should use, middle or top. Below is what I posted in another topic here but only got one reply. Would love to get some more feedback.
2005 Titan LE 4x4
Front Driver = 35.5" (broken spring)
Front Pass = 36"
Rear Driver = 38.5"
Rear Pass = 38.5"
Just received the MOOG 08 4x4 Coils (81149) and Bilstein 5100's for front only.
Questions:
1. Is 81149 the correct part# for the coils, they say rear on packing slip?
2. Should I go top setting on the Bilstein's?
3. Should that get me close to level?
4. Will I need any other parts such as Camber Bolts or UCA's?
5. If I do need either of those, will Autozone carry the parts?
6. What is the biggest tire I should be able to get on and not rub after the install?
Thanks!
2005 Titan LE 4x4
Front Driver = 35.5" (broken spring)
Front Pass = 36"
Rear Driver = 38.5"
Rear Pass = 38.5"
Just received the MOOG 08 4x4 Coils (81149) and Bilstein 5100's for front only.
Questions:
1. Is 81149 the correct part# for the coils, they say rear on packing slip?
2. Should I go top setting on the Bilstein's?
3. Should that get me close to level?
4. Will I need any other parts such as Camber Bolts or UCA's?
5. If I do need either of those, will Autozone carry the parts?
6. What is the biggest tire I should be able to get on and not rub after the install?
Thanks!
PaPro4x is in the sandbox right now. He could answer every one of those questions.
There are no rear coil springs.
I'm pretty sure camber bolts will not be found at AutoZone.
I'm useless on lift questions.
There are no rear coil springs.
I'm pretty sure camber bolts will not be found at AutoZone.
I'm useless on lift questions.
dont go top setting on the bills middle will get you 1" level, as well the 08 springs will lift you a bit as well, otherwise you will have a really stiff ride and rattle your teeth out of your skull,
shouldnt need UCA or cam bolts unless your doing a spacer as well as the bills, and NO auto zone will not have either of those look around at PRG or DK for UCA, and im pretty sure PRG is only place for cam bolts or the dealer. ( you may have cam bolts stock in your 05 also not sure when nissan stopped that or why) 325 is the biggest tire you can run may rub still but a PWM will fix that,
shouldnt need UCA or cam bolts unless your doing a spacer as well as the bills, and NO auto zone will not have either of those look around at PRG or DK for UCA, and im pretty sure PRG is only place for cam bolts or the dealer. ( you may have cam bolts stock in your 05 also not sure when nissan stopped that or why) 325 is the biggest tire you can run may rub still but a PWM will fix that,
Stay at middle Just did mine 2 weeks ago. looks amazing and rides great. Accidentally ran over a VW Bug and didn't even notice yesterday.
I went with middle perch. Other than driver front still being 1/2 inch lower than pass side, I am happy with it. Not sure if it is normal or not but seems to chatter the floor board over bumps like railroad tracks but bigger bumps don't do it. General driving seems better overall, just that annoying floor board chatter occasionally.
So would I be correct in assuming that I should be able to get a LT305/65-R18 tire and it not rub but look fairly aggressive? Anyone have this size tire on a non-lifted truck that can post pictures?
Thanks for all the input guys!
So would I be correct in assuming that I should be able to get a LT305/65-R18 tire and it not rub but look fairly aggressive? Anyone have this size tire on a non-lifted truck that can post pictures?
Thanks for all the input guys!
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