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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did my research and landed on the S&B intake due to being a flex fuel (2014). I expected a vibration. But I didn't expect to not be able to fix it. I'm getting a sharp and fast vibration/buzz from 2700-3100 RPM when the pedal is at about 50%. Like, right before it would down shift and its hard under load. Here is what I have done to fix the problem at no avail:

I have insulated the bottom of the box with 3/16" rubber 1.5" wide weather stripping. Placed it directly on the truck - you can't see any metal. The fit is perfectly snug - no play whatsoever.

I've put pipe insulation on the side where the opening is for the "cold air" - thanks for the write up Sudden.

I have placed weather stripping under the defroster vent to where it was almost impossible to get back in its so tight, and also where the A-Pillar meets up at the dashboard.

I've tightened the three bolts on the inside of the door frame connecting the dash, and checked for loose bolts in the A-Pillar.

I've ran it lid off. (Lid is currently placed with weather stripping around the inside).

And damnit, its still there. It sounds and feels like it is coming from underneath where the A-Pillar and dashboard meet - like deep in that corner. No matter where I press on the dash when its buzzing, it doesn't stop.

I hate to get rid of it because I literally got an immediate 2MPG boost on the highway. Currently leveled with 305/65 WildPeak AT3W's, I'm getting 16-17 highway (what I was getting stock). But the buzz drives me insane - it makes me never wanna hammer down on it. :frown:

What is my next move??


- Nate
 

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The hood latch and hinges have been known to cause some weird noises in our trucks. Play with the hood stops a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
After more research and seeing "resonance" problems from the MXP on some people, basically the intake tube acting as a tuning fork into the wheel well - I bought some Boom Mat from AutoZone and got about 80% of the inside of the driver side wheel well covered. I'd say it's reduced to about 10-15% of the initial buzz/vibration. There is still a slight one, but its not as bad now. AND Hearing it some on the passenger side now, lol - so i'm gonna pick up two more packs of this stuff, completely cover the driver side then hit the passenger side with some too. I'll report back, because I know this vibration from intakes drives people crazy.

It's nuts because I had a 2010 with the MXP and it was just a nasty growl, no vibration whatsoever. Maybe Nissan changed the insulation in the wheel well??
 

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Wow I thought I was the only one that had that buzzing noise, it started ever since I installed my intake.
I have the banks intake in my 2008 titan and what's funny is I did exactly everything Nate glover did in the first post trying to solve that problem!! I basically given up on that buzzing noise and ignore it now!! Please keep up the updates on solving this buzzing noise problem!! I'm taking notes! Thanks
 

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I have what you have.S&B is awesome. Mine is totally sealed. The only problem I have isn't really that big of a problem. Going from winter to spring , when the barometric pressure fluctuates so much, I'll throw a code. I will reset it about 4 times. I'm guessing it's because I have a flex fuel. After that, I will never throw another code until the next winter/spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Jonathan, I haven't removed that!! I'm near Raleigh NC and it's gone from mid 70s to low 20s/30s and the vibration is worse than when it was warm. I'm dead determined to find a final fix for this. Where exactly is that grommet located? I'll rip it out tonight. ?
 

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facing the fender, the grommet is located inside the fender well, back towards the trucks frame, upper right corner. it sits flushed and clipped onto the frame.

I have tried putting 3m adhesive foam tape and it worked a couple days, but it eventually came back (the added buzzing)
 
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