[honda250xtitan]

Possibly your cats are startin to get plugged up, throws a sensor, and kills the engine power. Or your fuel pump is starting to go out on you. What your truck is doing is exactly what mine did when my fuel pump started loosing pressure. If you havent done the fuel sending recall, bring it in for the recall, and have them check the fuel pump, that way if its the fuel pump you'll save alot of money on labor.

 

[mikesoutheastern]

thanks. i will give it a shot

 

[overdalimit]

The same thing just happened to mine.... It would cut out and sputter at anything above 2000 RPMS and wouldn't accelerate..... Now, I really can't give you too much on the driveabilty part because I just bought the truck (Used Car Dealer) and installed an engine.... It ran fine after the engine install and I haven't put more than 50 miles in the truck and it started the bucking and sputtering..... I thought that the fuel could have been bad becasue I bought the truck last October and it sat up until now, so I figured that the pump was bad..... Bought a Fuel Pump assembly from Autozone for $180.00 and installed it and the truck runs like a bat outta hell!

 

[JDos1]

Could be one of two things from my personal experience.

1. Fuel pump. Mine did the same thing but started at higher rpms then started working its way down after more driving.

BUT I don't think that's your problem.

2. Re-check your CEL/SES Codes.

P0420 and P0430 are for Catalytic Converter Inefficiencies. You said you haven't taken care of that.
Check your codes and see if it's coming up with a P0300 now.
If so, it's for a random misfire.

What that means is either A) Your cats are completely clogged and the engine isn't letting exhaust gases out or B) The catalytic converters broke up and get blown down into the B-pipes, clogging the secondary catalytic converters, not allowing the engine to breathe.


I've had both problems.

Since you've got the cat inefficiency codes, I can just about guarantee you that option number 2 is your problem.

Normally, if its the fuel pump, it'll purge fuel. (Rev, die, Rev, die, etc)
If it's more of a misfire then it's definitely the cats.

 

[jimmy120]

Keep us posted on the outcome.

 

[mikesoutheastern]

Problem solved. had to replace top 2 cats.


thanks for the help

 

[jimmy120]

Problem solved. had to replace top 2 cats.


thanks for the help

How much did that run you? Did you have them replaced at the dealership?

 

[deerslayer]

Been on the road all day, i have a 04 with 246,000 miles. had codes 420 and 430, i need to service those issues but just erased so that NO codes present.

My main issue is from a complete stop to go, unable to accelerate OVER 2000 RPM. If i do, engine shutters almost like a rev limiter kicking in. Once in motion and we get up to 70-80 mph i still cannot step on gas to go over 2000 rpm.

But if i let truck rest over night, and go to drive in morning, i can accelerate over 2k RPM. When engine, and outside temp gets warm is when this problem occurs. Any thoughts???

Man I don't have an answer for your problem but good Lord, you have 246K on your Titan? That's a new record I think!!

Edit: Saw where you fixed your problem, good deal

 

[huntin6389]

i have 317000 miles on my titan I myself have had it for 3 years and when I bought the truck it ran amazing fell in love with it. After about 3 months I had a problem where I went to take of and the truck just cut out and died on me right in the middle of the road. Shut the truck off started it back up ran just fine for months after. Then started an issue where when I tried to step on the gas passed half throttle it would start to shutter and buck on me and the rpms would become erratic (jumping up and down). Recently I let the truck warm up in the morning and as I went to take off I suddenly loose all my power once the truck is in gear. when I hit the throttle in park after about 2500 rpms it starts to struggle. I have replaced the A/f sensor because shop said computer threw codes po300 and po420 and po430 and p1279. Also replaced spark plugs because they needed much attention passenger side was brown crusted and the driver side I replaced the sensor on had black crusted I. have poked out the cats because they were shot. Driver side upstream cat was gone so I poked the upstream cat on passenger side to match pressure and the truck still wont run atleast a little better. idles fine though. I don't have a code reader so I cant erase codes I don't know if it may help me. I tried the manual reset of the ecu with the ignition and accelerator and it doesn't work for me the ses light wont blink.

 

[chadp82]

If you removed the cats you need the tuning adjusted. Look up forum member Nightowl. He does custom header and exhaust work. He and Seymore (his tuning guy) can help you out.

You will probably need to buy Uprev tuning. google Cajun B Pipes. That is Nightowls website

 

[gofasterstripes]

Sorry to revive a dead (sleeping?) thread... I'm having the same issues. 200k miles, new-to-me 2005 le with towing package.

Getting p0420, p0430, and p0455. No terrible clatter from the original exhaust manifolds.

Occasionally it hesitates terribly at 2k rpm. Can't get it over I. If I stop the truck and restart it, everything runs fine.

I ran a bottle of cataclean through it on a whim. Seems to no longer throw p0430 but I still get p0420 pending.

I'm thinking that it's probably my catalytic converters, right? How do I tell which ones? This is a winter beater truck. It needs to run and be registerable in an emissions state, but that's about it. What are my cheapest options here for a decent shade-tree mechanic?

 

[WeekendsR2Short]

At 200k miles it would be safe (IMHO) to just consider all 4 shot (or close to it). I'm probably not the one to make this suggestion to you considering my limited knowledge but I would opt for JBA long tube headers with high density cats in your custom B-pipes. All this can be had thru Cajun B-pipes along with an Up-Rev eFlash tune for your new parts. All said & done, this will only cost a bit more than OEM cat replacements and will head off the cracked exhaust manifold issue that is most likely present as well. It ended up costing me a total of about $2300 parts & labor and I had it done at the Nissan dealership. So you could probably save some over MY labor costs. Just MHO though.....

 

[slyfur1]

Did you miss the part where he said this is a winter beater, what are my CHEAPEST options?

Order the cheapest cats you're comfortable buying from Rockauto or Amazon and install them.

 

[gofasterstripes]

Did you miss the part where he said this is a winter beater, what are my CHEAPEST options?

Order the cheapest cats you're comfortable buying from Rockauto or Amazon and install them.

Is there a way to tell if it's the front or rear cats? The rears seems straightforward to replace. The fronts, less so...

 

[dubyam]

Since the sensors sit fore and aft of the front (primary) cats, your best bet is the primary cats are the ones throwing the codes. If your secondary cats go south, the only way you can tell is they will be so clogged your truck won't run. But they're not likely to be clogged if your front cats are intact, as they don't see as much scrubbing duty being second in line. Everything they see is pre-cleaned.

 

[slyfur1]

https://www.google.com/search?q=p04...hrome.1.0l6.5415j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

https://www.google.com/search?q=p04...0j69i57j0l4.5066j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

https://www.google.com/search?ei=sO...71j0i131i20i263j0i20i264j0i20i263.LNFZoRraRww

If you google your codes there's a multitude of issues. But the thing about codes is one problem can cause multiple codes to appear.

It could be just a bad O2 sensor, but that would likely not affect performance and just be a code. With your truck having 200k on it and if there is a catalyst system malfunction I would replace the easiest 1st and see if that fixes the problem.

Good luck.

This other thread below that you commented on is a good one too, and what dubyam above said is good experience sense also

https://www.titantalk.com/forums/ti...ce-cat-converter-replacement-p0420-p0430.html

 

[54warrior]

I am having the issue with the revving past 2500 rpm's. No codes. Let it cool down some, revved to 3500 rpm. Stock Intake, all that stuff is clean. I ordered a Fuel Pump. We'll see what happens once it is replaced. 2005 with 140k miles.

 

[54warrior]

So... After breaking off all 4 bolts for the skid plate, and realizing that the CC model has the pump tucked tightly underneath the rear of the cab, I decided to take it to my local guy "Skeeter" to have him pull the tank and replace the pump. Yes that is his real name and he loves the "fun" projects. $100 later he had the pump replaced and skid plate bolts fixed.

Truck is running fine again. Fuel Pump appears to have been the solution, I have put 150 miles on it since replacement. Will add some more this weekend.