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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I know I need a new drive shaft center support for my '09 2wd my question is: What all do I need to get to do this job in my driveway? and help on the steps?
I found one for $65 on Amazon. Is this all I need? seems too cheap. its Spicer brand, model number: 212258-1x and it just says center bearing and shows the black bracket with rubber and a silver coupling thing. (sorry for the ignorance of parts)

Also, the steps I tried to find to fixing this problem is:
1) Mark objects for position
2) Take off the Joint from where it meets the bearing
3) detach Bearing from truck and pull out from the Transmission
4) beat out/ cut off/ or pry off with claw/ the bearing from the drive shaft
5) grease and slip on the new one
6) reattach.
am I on the right track? or am I going to end up having a lawn ornament because I messed up my truck further?
 

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Is your truck lifted? The reason I ask is that lifted trucks often need a CBDB (Carrier Bear Drop Bracket) so that the drive shaft isn't at too steep an angle. My truck is 4x4 so it doesn't have a carrier bearing at all.

I did a carrier bearing replacement on my '91 Ford Ranger. I don't recall it being difficult. The only challenging part was getting the bolts and nuts back the way it was. I messed up and the bearing assembly ended up not being bolted to the crossmember at all. Boy, was there a lot of clunking going on under that truck!
 
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I just did mine a couple of weeks ago. Pretty easy job. I didn't take apart any U joints. Take the rear shaft apart at the flange where it bolts to the rear end. Mark the slip shaft splines and pull rear shaft out. The carrier bearing mount studs are built into the cross member, remove nuts and pull shaft out of transmission.

I took the shaft to local shop and let them do the carrier bearing. They charged me$15.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I added a 3" Front 2" Rear leveling kit but the truck shuddered before I added that. I replaced both upper ball joints and tie rod and ends and got 2 allignments. After replacing the parts I did, the truck stopped shuddering when braking. But continued to shudder only when accelerating between 20-40mph. It's fine when coasting or accelerating out of that range.
I can physically move my driveshaft and can see the center bearing giving no support.
Thanks for the help about taking the shaft to a shop and having them do it for cheap.
One more question about the response: so you disconnect the entire drive shaft (from the rear)? Not just the front part and let it lay on the ground?
 

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just replaced mine like a month ago! i ended up ordering my carrier bearing from the dealer since the one i ordered from ebay was the wrong size. even when i went to my local auto parts store same thing. maybe because my truck is a longbed? like GaryFischer said you don't have to take apart any U joints. Take the rear shaft apart at the flange where it bolts to the rear end. Mark the slip shaft splines and pull rear shaft out. The carrier bearing mount studs are built into the cross member, remove nuts and pull shaft out of transmission. for me i had a CBC so i had to take that out

everything out but unfortunately the carrier bearing was too small to fit over the shaft


you can see the bushing just obliterated! :eek_surprise: causing all the driveline vibrations


here's what it'll look like when you pull the drive shaft out of the transmission. have some rags ready as a had about a cupful of transmission fluid leak onto the floor


also, like mentioned above if your truck is lifted you may need a Carrier bracket
 

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How did this bearing work for you? $65 on Amazon is about half what the dealer quoted me..
Dealer's are always gonna cost more for anything just because it's OEM. like i mentioned on my post i had to go to the Dealer because the bearing i ordered online and my local auto parts store did not fit and i don't know if it's because i'm LWB? are you in the middle of needing this done?
 

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Thank you. I just ordered the part so I'll give it a try in about a week.
I was hoping Jonb11 could chime in, from reading it seems he went with the Spicer bearing on Amazon.

I had my driveshaft out to grease the yoke and saw that the rubber around the bearing was on its way out so I want to replace as a preventative. I imagine the OEM part is the same Amazon-Spicer bearing, just marked up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
This is the one I went with.
Sorry for not responding.
My rubber part was deteriorated and my driveshaft pretty much moved freely.
What I had to do was detatch my driveshaft and took it to a local driveshaft shop. It costed $40 and took 5 minutes for them to take off the old one and put on the new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
My shuddering problem was due to the separation of my driveshaft because of the leveling lift kit.
It is not 100% seated like it was before. (The part where the rubber covers the ribbed head of the drive shaft)
It's more like 90% seated in and can see a little of those ribbs or grooves. The driveshaft guys said that it's not a big deal because I have enough of a bite on the grooves. And the shuddering is very minimal and I got use to is after a week.
BUT the carrier replacement did help a lot.
 

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the dealer should be able to find out. when i did mine there was 2 part #'s and because it didn't really have a description he ordered the first one and when it showed up it was the smaller one. he ordered the 2nd part # and when it arrived it was the correct one. i don't have the part # on hand since it's been awhile now
 

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I know I need a new drive shaft center support for my '09 2wd my question is: What all do I need to get to do this job in my driveway? and help on the steps?
I found one for $65 on Amazon. Is this all I need? seems too cheap. its Spicer brand, model number: 212258-1x and it just says center bearing and shows the black bracket with rubber and a silver coupling thing. (sorry for the ignorance of parts)

Also, the steps I tried to find to fixing this problem is:
1) Mark objects for position
2) Take off the Joint from where it meets the bearing
3) detach Bearing from truck and pull out from the Transmission
4) beat out/ cut off/ or pry off with claw/ the bearing from the drive shaft
5) grease and slip on the new one
6) reattach.
am I on the right track? or am I going to end up having a lawn ornament because I messed up my truck further?
Is your truck lifted? The reason I ask is that lifted trucks often need a CBDB (Carrier Bear Drop Bracket) so that the drive shaft isn't at too steep an angle. My truck is 4x4 so it doesn't have a carrier bearing at all.

I did a carrier bearing replacement on my '91 Ford Ranger. I don't recall it being difficult. The only challenging part was getting the bolts and nuts back the way it was. I messed up and the bearing assembly ended up not being bolted to the crossmember at all. Boy, was there a lot of clunking going on under that truck!
oh okay since mine is 4x4 and has a center control bearing yours probably fell out and you don’t wanna fix it
 

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Is your truck lifted? The reason I ask is that lifted trucks often need a CBDB (Carrier Bear Drop Bracket) so that the drive shaft isn't at too steep an angle. My truck is 4x4 so it doesn't have a carrier bearing at all.

I did a carrier bearing replacement on my '91 Ford Ranger. I don't recall it being difficult. The only challenging part was getting the bolts and nuts back the way it was. I messed up and the bearing assembly ended up not being bolted to the crossmember at all. Boy, was there a lot of clunking going on under that truck!
I have 07 4wd crew cab . Should I use drop kit having lift?
 

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I have 07 4wd crew cab . Should I use drop kit having lift?
Do you have a carrier bearing? Mine didn't. You may need a driveshaft spacer. How much lift?
 
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