I went with Doug Thorley long tube headers and Magnaflow cats in the B pipes, which bolt to the collector flanges of the headers. That way the cats can be easily replaced without messing with the headers.
Cat needs to be replaced... Warranty Void. Advice
2
Hey all. So here is my dilemma, let me know what you all think I should do.
I had JBA headers installed back when, and the guy that installed them welded the cats to the headers. Obviously Nissan won't work on it because of the welded situation.
So, I took it to a very reputable muffler shop here in Austin, TX. He is telling me that my best option is to replace the headers/cat with an OEM unit. He said this is because they come welded together from factory (is this true?) and so he would have to cut off the cat from the factory unit, cut off the one on my JBA's, then tack the new one on but that there would be no warranty likely on the new pair.
I have attached some pics of my current setup. Any advice is lovely. And again, I am in Austin, TX if anyone knows someone that could help more.
04 Titan with 73K miles.
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I had JBA headers installed back when, and the guy that installed them welded the cats to the headers. Obviously Nissan won't work on it because of the welded situation.
So, I took it to a very reputable muffler shop here in Austin, TX. He is telling me that my best option is to replace the headers/cat with an OEM unit. He said this is because they come welded together from factory (is this true?) and so he would have to cut off the cat from the factory unit, cut off the one on my JBA's, then tack the new one on but that there would be no warranty likely on the new pair.
I have attached some pics of my current setup. Any advice is lovely. And again, I am in Austin, TX if anyone knows someone that could help more.
04 Titan with 73K miles.
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Don't know why he thinks you need to use OE cats, just get some aftermarket high-flow cats, cut off the old ones, weld on the new ones and you're done. No need to do anything with the headers.
If you wanted to have him "improve" the design then I'd ask him to weld flanges onto the headers so you can simply unbolt the cats next time.
If you wanted to have him "improve" the design then I'd ask him to weld flanges onto the headers so you can simply unbolt the cats next time.
He's right. OEM manifolds and cats are one piece..... You could always just cut that one out, have the gap filled in with pipe, and install a hi-flo cat downstream a bit.....
The reason he wants to go OE route, and I just called back, is because he is saying that highflows won't turn my light off... And I want the problem solved indefinitely, so I absolutely do not want to do something that might make this a recurring hassle. If someone can say for sure, that a certain setup off of the headers I have right now will work, that would be an awesome confidence booster.
More information is needed.
Right now, is your second oxygen sensor before or after those welded on cats?
Speaking generally, the first O2 sensor configures A/F ratio. The second reports the health of your cats (which turns on the idiot light). Your high flow cats are not what your second O2 sensor expects to see (in terms of O2 concentration for a known volume over time). The common way to fix this is to move the sensor out of the flow stream. Just have a bung welded after the cat (if there is not one already) and add a piece of pipe to get the sensor further from the gas stream.
Right now, is your second oxygen sensor before or after those welded on cats?
Speaking generally, the first O2 sensor configures A/F ratio. The second reports the health of your cats (which turns on the idiot light). Your high flow cats are not what your second O2 sensor expects to see (in terms of O2 concentration for a known volume over time). The common way to fix this is to move the sensor out of the flow stream. Just have a bung welded after the cat (if there is not one already) and add a piece of pipe to get the sensor further from the gas stream.
The second sensor is behind the welded cats.
If the cats are welded to the headers, then the second 02 sensor is behind the cats. And yes, some good Magnaflow High Flow will keep your SES light from popping up. If it is already there, then once your done with the install, get the light rest by an auto parts store and it won't come back
So that brings up a final question then. Are all highflows created equal, and if not is there a best? By best I mean comes with the best warranty. Thank yall for your help. Hopefully my Titan will be driving again soon!
_____________Update
Just called the muffler shop. He said there is no way to weld a flange to the header?(is that what I should have asked) to make future cat service easier. He said that it would be too close to the star on the header, no idea what that means. The final verdict then was that the new ones HAD to be welded on and so whatever I buy is going to have no warranty... WTFFF. Is this really the truth...?
Also he said thunderbolt cats are what he recommends.
_____________Update
Just called the muffler shop. He said there is no way to weld a flange to the header?(is that what I should have asked) to make future cat service easier. He said that it would be too close to the star on the header, no idea what that means. The final verdict then was that the new ones HAD to be welded on and so whatever I buy is going to have no warranty... WTFFF. Is this really the truth...?
Also he said thunderbolt cats are what he recommends.
no they aren't, Magnaflows work good
Not all created equal, but you should be able to get rid of the light anyway, even with no cats.
I have no primary cats on my other nissan (SE-R) and no lights.
I have no primary cats on my other nissan (SE-R) and no lights.
No.Just called the muffler shop. He said there is no way to weld a flange to the header?(is that what I should have asked) to make future cat service easier. He said that it would be too close to the star on the header, no idea what that means. The final verdict then was that the new ones HAD to be welded on and so whatever I buy is going to have no warranty... WTFFF. Is this really the truth...?
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/buy-sell/99690-f-s-jba-short-tube-headers.html
yeah I have de-foulers on my truck with no cats and no codes
Thanks for the info everyone! So here is what is happening.
Turns out the head welder at the shop didn't know why the hell the other guy was telling me that flanges were not going to fit in the space I had. So he is setting me up with those. Removing the resonators from both sides, I guess when I had by JBA cat backs installed they left all the OEM piping besides what came with the exhaust in box. New Y-Pipe is being fabd also. So if the other side ever decides to go out, it will be a simple bolt in bolt out and now I am getting out of this with less restrictive flow!
Nissan wanted 1700, I am getting out payin 560. WOOT!
Cat is going to be a Thunderbolt Metal Spun Cat
Turns out the head welder at the shop didn't know why the hell the other guy was telling me that flanges were not going to fit in the space I had. So he is setting me up with those. Removing the resonators from both sides, I guess when I had by JBA cat backs installed they left all the OEM piping besides what came with the exhaust in box. New Y-Pipe is being fabd also. So if the other side ever decides to go out, it will be a simple bolt in bolt out and now I am getting out of this with less restrictive flow!
Nissan wanted 1700, I am getting out payin 560. WOOT!
Cat is going to be a Thunderbolt Metal Spun Cat
Unfortunately there have been some problems with the Thunderbolt's. I actually bought some thunderbolt's, then sold them. The guy I sold them to had problems with them, they didn't get rid of his light. I forget if I got the ceramic core or metallic core though. You should not have to mod the JBA y-pipe, its actually a very good y-pipe. I would thin the only things that should get modded are the actually manifolds, and then the b-pipes too add the cats. Oh well, they are the muffler shop, not me LOL
Final update. I had found on the LS7 forums that people have problems with the ceramics but none with the metallics. This shop has been in Austin for 37 years and alot of the track guys I know locally swear by them so I went ahead and took their advice on the Thunderbolts.
So, resonators are gone, b-piping changed and flanges installed. All is good now. Sounds is completely diff, much throatier and raspy in the high band. Also it seems to have more torque down low, it wants to slip much easier on dry concrete than it did prior... Who knows haha? I am satisfied. If a light comes back, I will update, but here is to keeping my fingers crossed!
So, resonators are gone, b-piping changed and flanges installed. All is good now. Sounds is completely diff, much throatier and raspy in the high band. Also it seems to have more torque down low, it wants to slip much easier on dry concrete than it did prior... Who knows haha? I am satisfied. If a light comes back, I will update, but here is to keeping my fingers crossed!
Nice, I'm glad it worked out. Must be the Ceramic's that are not very good. Hey, you did your research and you got the right cat, good job.
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
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