[BobNYC]

Wow...how did you pass state inspections...or do you not have annual state inspections? Here in NY, if the CEL is on, they won't even hook-up the computer. And if you've reset the CEL but haven't had somewhere around 40 engine starts since resetting it, you'll fail.

Just curious....

 

[8ball]

^^^ Where I live, there are no inspections... EVER.... lol If they make it for your truck, go for broke my friend.... lol The only thing they check annually is for brakes, lights, horn, registration, and insurance.

 

[DRTYAZN]

:rofl: It was not an error caused by your sensors in your stock B pipes... They were working perfectly, the problem was, Your rear O2 sensors were in front of the only cats (if you even had any at all depending on yr and 4X or 2X) and not getting a "proper" catalyst efficiency reading. Berk B Pipes relocate the O2 sensors behind the cats... that is the key!

 

[8ball]

^^^ You're VERY wrong in regards to my situation, but you have good understanding on how to install a b-pipe correctly. My sensors have ALWAYS been to the rear of the cats. I believe the "key" was adding the o2 extenders. Berk did it right. The Stillen b-pipes come with 2 bungs in each b-pipe (rear and front). All you have to do is plug the front and screw the sensors in the rear. So far I have been through 2 sets of b-pipes and 3 sets of catbacks. When it comes to our exhaust, I can install one blindfolded.

 

[DRTYAZN]

I see... So you were one of the unlucky owners of Stealin' B Pipes, which require Stealin' O2 foulers for extra $, to trick the O2 sensor and ECU in order to eliminate the SES... aaaaahhhhh...
You wanna sell those SBP's???

 

[8ball]

I see... So you were one of the unlucky owners of Stealin' B Pipes, which require Stealin' O2 foulers for extra $, to trick the O2 sensor and ECU in order to eliminate the SES... aaaaahhhhh...
You wanna sell those SBP's???

Damn man you're a week too late. LOL I sold them to a buddy of mine just last week. I needed the cash bad. Yeah, those damn b-pipes should have had the o2 extender welded in and all would have been well. Puzzles me that all these complaints and no one listens... LOL The Stillens were welded nice, but I wish they went with a metallic core.

After I re-tightened the exhaust the truck pulls a little more. One of the bolts I could loosen with my fingers. I need to torque down the headers again just in case. LOL

I will say though, I freaked out when I didn't see my CEL on... I thought something blew up. LOL

I wasn't trying to be mean in my last post man, just saying it was hooked up correctly, but all it lacked was that little 1 inch piece of metal. LOL :hi:

 

[DRTYAZN]

No prob, I was gonna give you a lowball offer and chop them up anyways... :rofl: no offense taken but apology accepted... and it's the Internet, if I get flamed, I'll let ya know...

 

[gary748]

Yeah, those damn b-pipes should have had the o2 extender welded in and all would have been well. Puzzles me that all these complaints and no one listens... LOL The Stillens were welded nice, but I wish they went with a metallic core.:

Great news Robert! Glad you and everyone else like the Berk Technology pipes. Still haven't had a chance to install my headers or b-pipes...

 

[cancer_researcher]

Did the CEL really go off or did the bulb just burn out after 3 years?:teethmast

 

[DRTYAZN]

^^^ :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: ^^^

 

[8ball]

Did the CEL really go off or did the bulb just burn out after 3 years?:teethmast

I really needed the laugh, thanks man. To be honest, it probably said screw it and turned itself off. LOL I don't know, maybe it did burn out. Either way, I am happy it is gone.

 

[DRTYAZN]

I really needed the laugh, thanks man. To be honest, it probably said screw it and turned itself off. LOL I don't know, maybe it did burn out. Either way, I am happy it is gone.

Only way to know for sure is to run the SES code / ECU reset sequence. turn key to run (do not start) count 3 seconds, 5 quick full gas pedal down / release... after last release, count 12 seconds... The SES should disappear for a second, then push and hold gas pedal down for 10 seconds then release. Watch the SES light slowly flash 10 (= #0) while pedal is down, then you should get a faster sequence of flashes. (10 = 0, and the other numbers of flash = the real number) If there is no code, you'll have the initial slow 10 flashes, followed by 3 sets of 10 quick flashes, otherwise the flashing sequence will give you the SES code (ie 0300 = 10 slow flashes, 3, 10, and 10 quick flashes)
(also there is a sticky on how to do this and other stuff in FAQ section)