Changing The Oil.



Changing The Oil.

3/8" Ratchet Wrench*
3/8" 14mm Socket*
3/8" Extension*
6.5 Quarts of Motor Oil
Proper Oil Filter
Allen Wrench
Funnel
Oil Drain Pan
Filter Wrench
Paper Towels or Shop Rags
Gloves (if desired)
*A 14mm box end wrench can easily be substituted for the socket wrench and extension.
.
The Job

• Park your truck somewhere flat, where you wont be crying if a little oil spills. Because it will.
• Remove any $hit on your truck blocking access to your drain plug and filters. This varies a bit by model and year.
• Remove Oil Pan Plug. That's a 14MM socket you are looking for.
• Oh F**K, hopefully you put your drain pan under the plug first.
• Remove Filter. Real men can do this bare handed...are you a real man?
• Replace Filter, show everyone how smart your are by rubbing the gasket with a tad bit of oil.
• Replace Drain Plug (After it's done draining dip $hit).
• Pour about 7 qts of oil in the sum b1tch. Some People care way too much about oil and research the fark out of it. Mobile 1 0W-40 seems to be their preference so I use it. Use something else if you want...I don't care.
• Pour a few qts of beer in your belly, cause you done.

 

Reserved. Changing The Oil.

Pep boys recommended 10-30, is that what every one else uses?
Also I just hit over 140k miles. Is there any special type of oil I should use.
And how many qts?

 

Transmission Drain and Fill.

There are two methods to changing out automatic transmission fluid. One method is a flush, the other is a drain and fill. For those of you who like to keep it simple--you can perform a drain a fill at every other oil change and keep your transmission in good shape with minimal hassle.

Getting Started - Tools:
You will need a

• a metric socket set,
• a funnel with hose (needs to be a fairly small hose),
• a bucket with measurement markings to drain your fluid.
• a few towels, just in case.
• Gasket for drain plug, part number 11026-A60005 (personally, I reuse the same washer. But Nissan recommends swapping it out?)

Need a bucket? Here's a link to it on amazon [ame]http://www.amazon.com/United-Solutions-2-Gallon-Paint-Measurements/dp/B005SB1OSI/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1337557126&sr=8-7[/ame]

Need a funnel with hose? Here's a link to it on amazon [ame]http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-TF-1-Heavy-Transmission-Funnel/dp/B000EH2SPO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1337557187&sr=8-1[/ame]

Getting Started - Fluid:
You will need 4 quarts of compatible transmission fluid. There are endless debates on which fluid is best--just make sure you buy fluid that is listed as a replacement for Nissan Matic J.


The Job:

There are only three steps to this process:

1. Drain the transmission fluid by removing the transmission drain plug.
2. Measure the amount of fluid removed.
3. Pour that amount back into the transmission via the transmission dip stick tube.

However, if you're looking at this write-up, you are probably looking for a bit more detail.

1. You need to crawl under your truck and locate the transmission drain plug. You should crawl under from behind the front passenger tire. Position your bucket under the plug. Remove the plug with Metric Socket Size 19mm. Once it's done draining, replace the plug. But Chunko, WTF does the Transmission drain plug look like. It looks like this:

2. Next, you need to measure the amount of fluid you drained. Depending on the unicorn tears to fairy fart ratio in your transmission, there could be different amounts of fluid drained out. Generally it should be in the 3-4 quart range. The easiest way to avoid under/over filling is to replace exactly what was removed. This is most easily done by using a drain bucket with measurements in step one.


3. Locate the transmission dip stick. Remove the bolt holding it in place. Remove the Dipstick. Insert funnel into dipstick hole. Fill with the amount of fluid measured in step two (should be 3-4 quarts). Replace Dipstick. Measure with dipstick to ensure the level is in the recommended range. Bolt the dipstick back into place. But Chunko, WTF does the transmission dipstick look like? It looks like this:

You are done. Repeat every 2-3 oil changes and your transmission should run like a champ. It's a good idea to recheck your fluid levels a few miles after performing the fluid change.


Thanks to user Scot0410 for his original work on this. I've borrowed bits from your write-up.

 

Rear Differential Fluid

User Athena's Guardian already did a great write-up on this. All credit to him for these instructions. IMHO, the rear differential is the *easiest* maintenance you can perform on the titan. There is no need to pay 4x cost to have mechanic do it.

********************

All right guys, I know this is a pretty basic maintenance job, but I'm hoping that many new members (not unlike yours truly) will benefit from seeing exactly how to do this and build some confidence in taking care of their baby.

Getting Started: Tools

1. 3/8" Ratchet (a longer handle and flex head can come in handy)
2. 4 1/4 pints of 75W-140 synthetic gear oil (get 3 one quart bottles, the extra won't hurt)
3. Drain Pan
4. Shop Towels or a large piece of heavy cardboard

You really shouldn't need a jack or jack stands, even if you're only at stock height. You can simply crawl under the rear bumper. It may be a different story for you lowered guys. Please note each picture is named to correspond with a step.


The Job:

1. Locate Fill Plug
2. Remove Fill Plug
3. Locate Drain Plug, place drain pan under diff.
4. Remove Drain Plug.
5. Wait for oil to drain and replace drain plug.
6. Fill with 75W140 Gear Oil.
7. Replace Fill Plug.
8. Drink a Beer.

For those of you looking for a bit more detail...:

Step 1. Locate the Filler Plug

When looking at your rear differential cover, it will be on your right hand side (i.e., toward the passenger side).

Step 2. Remove the Filler Plug

For this, simply use your 3/8" ratchet to loosen and remove the filler plug. There is no need for a socket of any kind. The 3/8" drive will fit perfectly. A long-handled ratchet could be helpful and give you some extra leverage if you find the filler plug is particularly tight. Notice the order here--always remove the filler plug first, then the drain plug. You don't want to find out you've got a frozen filler plug after you've drained the diff.


Step 3. Locate the Drain Plug

The drain plug will be located on the underside of the differential case and will look just like the filler plug.

Step 4. Remove the Drain Plug

At this point, make sure you've placed the drain pan and some shop towels or a decent-sized piece of cardboard directly under the drain plug. The process for removing the drain plug is exactly the same as it was for the filler plug. Use the 3/8" ratchet to remove the plug. And be prepared, if you haven't done this before and you've got some miles on your Titan, gear oil is definitely not the greatest smelling stuff in the world.


Step 5. Drain the Gear Oil

Now that you have the drain plug removed, let the gear oil drain until is basically dripping. While the oil is draining, take a couple of shop towels and clean the drain plug itself. You will notice the top of the plug is magnetic. This is to attract the tiny metal shavings that will develop over time from the friction between the differential gears. A small amount of these metal shavings is normal, so don't panic; however, if the top of your drain plug looks like it has dreadlocks and could be touring with Bob Marley, you may have an issue!

Once the steady flow of oil has stopped and it's barely dripping, reinsert the clean drain plug and tighten it up. You can use a torque wrench if you have one handy. The correct torque specification is 32 ft-lbs. Honestly, I simply make sure it's solid and tight by hand.


Step 6. Fill the Differential Case

Now that you have your old oil drained and the drain plug tightened back up (you did put the plug back in, right?!), it's time to give her some fresh gear oil. It is entirely up to you which brand you use, but make sure the viscosity is 75W-140 and that it's synthetic. Personally, I use Royal Purple in my truck, but again, everyone has their favorite. Just remember: quality counts.

The rear differential requires 4 1/4 pints. Most of the bottles in an auto parts store are 1 quart. One quart equals 2 pints, so it's worth it to just go ahead and pony up for 3 bottles.

Now you simply cut the tip of the bottle, insert it into the filler opening, and pour in the new gear oil. You could also use a pump if you have one available. Another tip is to take a piece of clear fuel hose and put one end into the filler opening and the other on the tip of the bottle, and then simply squeeze.

The differential is full when the gear oil reaches the bottom of the filler opening. The simplest way to know you've got it filled is when the oil starts slowly running out of the opening. Take a look at the photo and you'll see exactly what I'm talking about. You could also use your pinky finger to check the fluid level.


Step 7. Replace the Fill Plug.
Once you've got the differential case topped off, simply reinsert the filler plug and tighten it up. The correct torque specification is 32 ft-lbs, just as it was for the drain plug. But again, if you get it nice and snug, you should be good to go.


Step 8. Sit Back and Drink a Beer
Congratulations, you've now got another skill added to your repertoire! It's a good feeling being able to do this stuff ourselves, and definitely keeps some coin in our pockets as well. I really hope this "how-to" helped you out.

 

Reserved - Front Differential.

The front differential is very similar to the rear differential with three exceptions:

1) There is a skid plate in your way that needs to be removed.
2) There is less room to work, so a fluid transfer pump is recommended.
3) Nissan has spec'd the gear oil differently.

 

Reserved. Coolant Drain and Fill.

 

Transfer Case:

All of my instructions are geared toward the total beginner (like myself). So let's start here. You only have a transfer case if you have a 4WD truck. These instructions are not applicable to 2wd Titan owners.

Getting Started

Tools etc.:

• A 10mm Hex (Allen) Wrench or Socket. (Note: this a large size hex, and may not be in your toolbox).
• A Drain Pan
• 2.5 Quarts Nissan Matic-D compatible Fluid. (I personally used Mobil 1 Synthetic Transmission Fluid). Note: The specs for the transfer case call for Matic-D compatible, which is different than your Transmission.
• Fluid Transfer Pump.

The Job:

1. Locate Transfer Case.
2. Position Drain Pan to Rear of Transfer Case.
3. Remove Fill Bolt with 10mm Hex.
4. Remove Drain Bolt with 10mm Hex, wipe the goo off the bolt.
5. When fluid stops draining, Replace Drain Bolt with 10mm Hex.
6. Attach Fluid Transfer Pump to bottle of Matic-D compatible Transmission Fluid.
7. Pump fluid until it runs out of the fill hole (~2.3 Quarts)
8. Replace the Fill bolt with 10mm Hex.

Pictures, Details, and links for the more obscure tools coming soon.

 

Scribin'... It's going to be awesome to have this all in 1 thread.

 

+1...I already know how to change my oil, but the others will be nice.

 

Subscribing

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hell yea man

 

count me in on a scribe.

 

First write-up is done: Trans Drain & Fill.

 

I read on another thread that you need to replace the transmission drain plug gasket when doing this. Not the case?

 

Is this the washer on the plug? I'm not sure what you're referring to.

If you drop the pan then you have to replace the pan gasket....

 

Thanks Chunko, just ordered the parts from Amazon for the transmission fluid change. I will be doing this along with an oil change before the road trip this weekend.

 

The gasket is re-usable. It's a high-quality rubber piece. On mine it stayed adhered to the trans so I left it alone. I cleaned the pan and magnets and re-installed w/o issue. The drain plug washer is the same as the oil drain plug if I remember correctly. I got a bag of 10 of them from the dealer when I bought the truck. No leaks and over 15k miles since I flushed the fluid.

Would like to see the recommended coolant swap procedure. That's the one thing I have yet to do.

 

Nice work...

 

I've got to get some more of those seals at the dealer myself..I like the fact that the tools (skinny funnel) was pictured. I have the hard plastic version but would like that flexible tubing item.

 

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Subscribed! This is great!


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Added Rear Differential.

 

Anybody know a good write up for the oil change? It seems like a waste to write that from scratch???

 

Get to work on the coolant flush. I need to do this sometime this year

 

Slow and sure wins the race. I'll perform the Transfer Case fluid swap tonight, will have a write-up for it soon.

Not sure when I'll get around to the coolant.

 

thanks nice write up.... did you had to use a transfer pump for the rear differential oil change or is there enough clearence to pour it ?

 

For the rear you can use the squeeze method, I did. In hindsight it's easier to just use a pump if you have one.

 

No rush... actually paid a stealership to do something for me for the first time in a LOOOOOOONNNNNGGGGG time. I had the truck in today for the fuel sending unit recall and saw the coolant flush was $100. I figured after the cost of a couple gallons of the proper coolant and a few gallons of distilled water I'd be out of pocket about $65 to let someone else do it with the proper tool for the job. I don't have to spend any time draining and refilling multiple times or dealing with disposal and the actual flush machine ensures everything gets exchanged. It was the last bit of maintenance I needed. Just hit 80k and already did the plugs, trans, diff, and PS fluid etc. Ready to haul for another few years.

 

Hopefully they actually use distilled water though or pre-mixed coolant. The spot I worked at sure we had the jugs we used to fill the machine but we had a garden hose to fill them, and it wasn't distilled or even softened water. Sucks...

 

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