have had it to scanner, once was cat, once was something to do with evap ? may be coincidence, but twice has gotten down to quarter tank and light went out, refilled light on in abt 40 miles ?? Also is there a way to get the info via key cycling etc like other autos can ?? 2006 Titan w 185,000 miles thanks for any advice...........
Check eng light
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You don't say what the codes are that you're retrieving and don't say what scanner is being used. Autozone?
If it was me.....especially with the miles you have, I'd be off to my favorite mechanic and get hooked up to an analyzer...not a scanner. Good money spent on real information. Especially if more than one area is in fail, pre fail, or just out of spec. A good analyzer will tell what's going on for an entire system and how to correct it before it breaks down 50 miles from home. A scanner only tells you what possible failure has happened at a sensor...many are cryptic at best.....and almost every one of those failure codes are to identify an increase in pollution you're putting out the exhaust.....
Anyway, just based on your post.....If you haven't replaced the evap solenoid.....now would be a good time. I suggest a Dorman evap solenoid...they have a lifetime full replacement warranty, are identical in every way, and are about half the price of OEM. If you have a NAPA...they will most likely take it back and refund your money if it doesn't extinguish your CEL. It's an easy 15 minute job.
If it was me.....especially with the miles you have, I'd be off to my favorite mechanic and get hooked up to an analyzer...not a scanner. Good money spent on real information. Especially if more than one area is in fail, pre fail, or just out of spec. A good analyzer will tell what's going on for an entire system and how to correct it before it breaks down 50 miles from home. A scanner only tells you what possible failure has happened at a sensor...many are cryptic at best.....and almost every one of those failure codes are to identify an increase in pollution you're putting out the exhaust.....
Anyway, just based on your post.....If you haven't replaced the evap solenoid.....now would be a good time. I suggest a Dorman evap solenoid...they have a lifetime full replacement warranty, are identical in every way, and are about half the price of OEM. If you have a NAPA...they will most likely take it back and refund your money if it doesn't extinguish your CEL. It's an easy 15 minute job.
thanks for the suggestions, codes were P0430 + P0448 @ Autozone and Advance. 1 bottle of injector cleaner removed the CEL with less than 5 gallons of fuel in tank, Far as getting it analyzed, 90$ is going price. They said it would pinpoint sensors "possibly" no returns on electrical so kind of a crap shoot or should say dollar shoot...........Cat is 400$ plus, see aftermarket for much less any experience with them anyone ?
So first, I never said that good information was free. An analyzer has software specific to your vehicle, is able to pull up the PI series of codes that a scanner can't even see....and much, much more. A scanner only can see the PO codes, such as you got from the A's. And as I said previously, they only point to sensor fails that report to emissions tests....which is what your $90 quote is apparently also doing based on the explanation you gave....reading the PO codes that point to sensors..not an engine performance analysis....a crap shoot.
An analyzer from Snap On or Mac is a $6000.00 tool that reads the ECU during operation and is able to see how all parts are interacting for efficiency and predictive analysis. A good, well trained tech, will plug in and put quite a few miles on driving your truck so the analyzer can log during driving loads .... not sitting in the shop on a lift. Depending on mf'er ECU design, even trans, SRS, and anti-skid codes and operations can be analyzed...and for your money you get a printed report. A code reading scanner can provide an inexpensive means of reading and clearing codes, and maybe even checking the status of the OBD II monitors (different from sensors), but that’s all. To read sensor data, history codes, pending codes, monitors etc., you need a “real” scanning tool, an analyzer, with manufacturer specific software that fully interacts with all the ECU functions during and after running all while reporting system performance all the way down to AFR and what's impacting any systems not at spec...... and the price jumps accordingly. Most scan tools do not have bidirectional communications capability. This is done for liability reasons. Most late-model vehicles have quite a few built-in self-checks that can be performed with a dealer or professional level scan tool, but running these tests requires some know-how, experience and caution. An important point to remember is that a code by itself is not a diagnosis. It is a starting point for further testing and diagnosis. The code may tell you the nature of the problem or the circuit that is acting up, but it doesn’t tell you what’s causing it.
A perfect example is your PO430 code....in my experience, it could be that one cat is shot or something else entirely, .... your miles, plus not knowing how many times your O2 sensors have been replaced, ... with an analyzer I can specifically spot a failing O2 behind the cat, which will also throw your exact code. It may not be your cat....but without the ability, which an analyzer gives, to read the voltages and their sweep speed....it's a guess that can cost you a ton of $$ if the guess is off and you replace a cat and it doesn't fix the code.
Or, consider the following causes list of PO430:
Faulty catalytic converter.
Engine misfire.
Fuel injector leaking.
Engine mechanical damage (broken ring, burned valve, etc.).
Oxygen sensor that has improper readings.
Exhaust leak.
Engine misfire may or may not throw another code in tandem depending on the source. Injector issues, broken rings, exhaust leak etc. do not throw codes specific to them. An analyzer......well, you get the point.
The 448 code, is an evap issue that, again based on your miles can be two or three different items. There are tests for each item that will isolate the actual part to replace so you can remove the code. If you do your tests and they show it's the evap solenoid and the parts vendor won't take it back if it's not the fix, you need a different supplier.
Adding injector cleaner into a near empty tank is dangerous.....and wouldn't have any effect whatsoever on the codes you put in your post. That concentration of cleaner can damage parts from injector pintle seals to the cat itself. I can't begin to guess why you put injector cleaner into your tank based on your original post or codes in your second.....just guessing, but did you walk through Autozone and you saw something that caught your eye? That's a crap shoot. That's asking for advice from people who know that you need to make a left turn at the next traffic light to get where you want to go..... and you go right.
So, you want a crap shoot.....make decisions without real information...buy cheap parts because they are cheap and throw them at the problem until something sticks. Best case...that works out to a coin toss and sometimes you get lucky. Worst case you could create new, more expensive problems while spending money on things that don't work. Some problems with these trucks are shadetree mechanic capable, and some aren't. That's when a good tech with the right tools is a handy person to know.
An analyzer from Snap On or Mac is a $6000.00 tool that reads the ECU during operation and is able to see how all parts are interacting for efficiency and predictive analysis. A good, well trained tech, will plug in and put quite a few miles on driving your truck so the analyzer can log during driving loads .... not sitting in the shop on a lift. Depending on mf'er ECU design, even trans, SRS, and anti-skid codes and operations can be analyzed...and for your money you get a printed report. A code reading scanner can provide an inexpensive means of reading and clearing codes, and maybe even checking the status of the OBD II monitors (different from sensors), but that’s all. To read sensor data, history codes, pending codes, monitors etc., you need a “real” scanning tool, an analyzer, with manufacturer specific software that fully interacts with all the ECU functions during and after running all while reporting system performance all the way down to AFR and what's impacting any systems not at spec...... and the price jumps accordingly. Most scan tools do not have bidirectional communications capability. This is done for liability reasons. Most late-model vehicles have quite a few built-in self-checks that can be performed with a dealer or professional level scan tool, but running these tests requires some know-how, experience and caution. An important point to remember is that a code by itself is not a diagnosis. It is a starting point for further testing and diagnosis. The code may tell you the nature of the problem or the circuit that is acting up, but it doesn’t tell you what’s causing it.
A perfect example is your PO430 code....in my experience, it could be that one cat is shot or something else entirely, .... your miles, plus not knowing how many times your O2 sensors have been replaced, ... with an analyzer I can specifically spot a failing O2 behind the cat, which will also throw your exact code. It may not be your cat....but without the ability, which an analyzer gives, to read the voltages and their sweep speed....it's a guess that can cost you a ton of $$ if the guess is off and you replace a cat and it doesn't fix the code.
Or, consider the following causes list of PO430:
Faulty catalytic converter.
Engine misfire.
Fuel injector leaking.
Engine mechanical damage (broken ring, burned valve, etc.).
Oxygen sensor that has improper readings.
Exhaust leak.
Engine misfire may or may not throw another code in tandem depending on the source. Injector issues, broken rings, exhaust leak etc. do not throw codes specific to them. An analyzer......well, you get the point.
The 448 code, is an evap issue that, again based on your miles can be two or three different items. There are tests for each item that will isolate the actual part to replace so you can remove the code. If you do your tests and they show it's the evap solenoid and the parts vendor won't take it back if it's not the fix, you need a different supplier.
Adding injector cleaner into a near empty tank is dangerous.....and wouldn't have any effect whatsoever on the codes you put in your post. That concentration of cleaner can damage parts from injector pintle seals to the cat itself. I can't begin to guess why you put injector cleaner into your tank based on your original post or codes in your second.....just guessing, but did you walk through Autozone and you saw something that caught your eye? That's a crap shoot. That's asking for advice from people who know that you need to make a left turn at the next traffic light to get where you want to go..... and you go right.
So, you want a crap shoot.....make decisions without real information...buy cheap parts because they are cheap and throw them at the problem until something sticks. Best case...that works out to a coin toss and sometimes you get lucky. Worst case you could create new, more expensive problems while spending money on things that don't work. Some problems with these trucks are shadetree mechanic capable, and some aren't. That's when a good tech with the right tools is a handy person to know.
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5,681 Posts
I can read most of the parameters you list using an ELM327 bluetooth plug in and the Torque app, including O2 voltage and can graph that over time. Some of the modern readers are pretty sophisticated for the home mechanic.
That said, I know there are things I can't read, too. The trick is finding a shop with a Consult II diagnostic tool for Nissan, who can and will do a full analysis. I suspect the cost will be a couple hundred dollars, but it could well be worth it.
First, though, I'd ask if you have any ticking at cold startup, which is isolated to one side of the engine. Because a common cat failure code issue is a cracked exhaust manifold. Do some searching/reading here on the forum and you'll see how common it is. The most cost effective fix is long tube headers and an UpRev tune. Best deal going on that is Cajun B pipes.
That said, I know there are things I can't read, too. The trick is finding a shop with a Consult II diagnostic tool for Nissan, who can and will do a full analysis. I suspect the cost will be a couple hundred dollars, but it could well be worth it.
First, though, I'd ask if you have any ticking at cold startup, which is isolated to one side of the engine. Because a common cat failure code issue is a cracked exhaust manifold. Do some searching/reading here on the forum and you'll see how common it is. The most cost effective fix is long tube headers and an UpRev tune. Best deal going on that is Cajun B pipes.
Is quiet on start up......I also ask if there is a key cycle method to get any codes?..........If were a cracked ex, the code would not clear ? Again 3rd time to be exact the light goes off when down to less than 1/4 tank............I just filled again yesterday abt 22 gallons and light has still not come on, but only have abt 60 miles on this new tank of fuel........Use the same BP 90% of the time........Mileage has not changed, varies slightly from 14 to 14.4 or so. I have been checking since buying at 160,000. Thanks very much for the advice from you two 
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2,437 Posts
Turn the key to "run", wait 3 seconds.
Fully depress and release the accelerator 5 times in 5 seconds or less.
Wait 7-8 seconds, then hold it to the floor for 10 seconds.
The cel will begin to flash. Do not count the slow flashes, only the fast ones.
The process will repeat until you either turn the key off or start the engine. If you wish to erase the codes you can hold the pedal down for ten seconds more.
I would not suggest paying anyone or buying parts until you have some idea what you're up against.
P0430 is almost guaranteed to be a bad cat caused by a bad manifold.
Evap issues can be as simple as a bad or loose gas cap, but the solenoids are a common failure item as well.
Stop buying "miracle in a bottle" type stuff......it's all a huge gimmick.
Fully depress and release the accelerator 5 times in 5 seconds or less.
Wait 7-8 seconds, then hold it to the floor for 10 seconds.
The cel will begin to flash. Do not count the slow flashes, only the fast ones.
The process will repeat until you either turn the key off or start the engine. If you wish to erase the codes you can hold the pedal down for ten seconds more.
I would not suggest paying anyone or buying parts until you have some idea what you're up against.
P0430 is almost guaranteed to be a bad cat caused by a bad manifold.
Evap issues can be as simple as a bad or loose gas cap, but the solenoids are a common failure item as well.
Stop buying "miracle in a bottle" type stuff......it's all a huge gimmick.
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