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Discussion Starter #1
Stangest sound I've heard. It clunks at rotational speed of the wheel. It was 3:00am the other day and I needed to make a drive. About a mile out I heard a sound like I ran over something. I did a visual inspection and didn't see any leak or breaks. Up a half mile ahead was a gas station so I pulled in to check again and didn't see anything. I proceeded cautiously at low speeds. imagine a flat spot on a tire, that's what it sounds like. The tires have no flat spots (only 5000 miles on them). It's a rotational clunk that I can feel on the floorboards. I did as much troubleshooting as to hear where the sound is coming from to inspecting the wheel hub assembly. The sound is more noticeable at the left rear than the right rear. I managed to get a recording from underneath with my phone strapped on the spare wheel: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6W__GYljxTY

I'm all out of ideas and could use any help out there, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I should add the sound only happens when the car is decelerating (coasting and while breaking) at speeds at around 35 to 10. It is not noticeable at higher speeds until the truck is going over 70. It becomes more of a vibration than a clunk at that point
 

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I would pull the rear diff cover off and inspect the locking pin, if it is cracked or broken, replace the entire carrier. replacing the pin will result in a future failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I jacked up the truck and let the wheels spin on drive. Sounds like a diff issue as there's zero play in the driveshaft but I'm still not fully convinced:

(I can't post any links until I have enough post counts)
youtube/watch?v=bxrjn6XR0iY

The strangest thing is that there is no play in the drivetrain when the truck is going over speeds of 35mph. In fact, it feels absolutely normal driving on the freeway. It's only when the truck is coasting/decelerating below 35 that the clunk/knock occurs. And even then, there's no pull on the rear axle. It's just the clunk/knock. Any other info other than to inspect the diff?

There is no play on the driveshaft. I'm reluctant to unbolt it and swap out the joints because of this
 

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emergency brakes would be my first choice to diagnose. more frequent problem with the symptoms you describe, easier to check and cheaper to fix.
 

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there will be no play in the driveline, a visual inspection is the only way to know. The Inside Of The Diff That Is. It is a CURSE I tell you of 04-07 Titan Rear Diffs . The Carrier Warps And Causes The Locking Pin To Break . Most People Shrug It Off (The Clunk that Is) Until There Is A Hole In The Diff And That Is a Bummer! I Actually Have Pic Uploaded In My User Acct Of What I Found . I tried Just A Pin. BAM! Broke A New Pin In 2 Weeks!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
After lowering the car off the jacks and onto the driveway, I decided to do a quick roll around the street. As I am going in reverse slowly, the truck stops. The truck stops as if something is binding. I decided to give it some gas and it rolled through. It happened on every rotation until I was out on the street. I put the truck in drive position and after one rotation, the truck stops again, as if something is binding. I gave it gas and heard a loud bang. I was hesitant to drive around the block and went back in the driveway. A few hours later, I did the same thing but there was very little resistance backing out and going forward - back to square one.
 

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e-brake failure is common, and the symptoms you are having sound typical. Easy to pull both wheels and check both sides.
 

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I`d also pull the diff cover and have a look and if anything else service the lube. how many miles and whens the last time a service was done?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Looks like it's time to drop in a TT. I don't really have a choice at this point. I have 178k on the truck, and I take it axle seals/bearings should be replaced...
 

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not at all. I do not understand the reply either. I love my TT ! you can install it without having to measure pinion. Just index the left and right adjustment. Keep it the same . Also , I do not if it is fixed yet. But after 20 k the carrier bolts (the ones on the left) that come pre assembled used to like to back out. People used to use chicken wire. I suggest just using a ratchet and cracking them about 15% each and there will be no future problem .
 

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The point of NickName's post is that you haven't diagnosed the source of the noise yet. Until you do that, don't worry about upgrades. (Check those e-brake shoes... still my vote. And make sure your differential is in good shape, etc.) If you have differential issues, such as bearing issues, whatever, then adding a TrueTrac won't fix the issue.

Sure, the TrueTrac is a good upgrade. There are some good threads on that if you search the forum. Eaton also supplies thorough installation info, including info on correctly setting up the rear end. http://www.eaton.com/ecm/idcplg?IdcService=GET_FILE&allowInterrupt=1&RevisionSelectionMethod=LatestReleased&noSaveAs=0&Rendition=Primary&dDocName=PCT_1087652

For a reliable installation, you will need to measure backlash, preload and ring gear pattern. It's not unusual for these rear ends to come from the factory incorrectly set up, so don't rely on luck and bet on the factory setup being right. And, take the issue of ring gear bolts backing out seriously. Loctite 263 or safety wiring the bolts (not chicken wire - lol) can take care of the situation. Eaton recommends new bolts, BTW. Don't overtorque the bolts. Read the Eaton installation guide; consider having a pro do the install.

Good luck.
 
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04-07 rear diffs are super common to have failures. I doubt it just happens. I never towed or hauled and mine failed at 44k. Alot of members have this issue. As far as the TT carrier. It is not the bearing cap bolts that come loose. It is the pre installed bolts that hold the carrier together that loosen and the heads get sheared from smacking the casing at around 20k. that is also a reported issue. I do agree in having a professional install it though.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I have checked both parking brakes and aside from the rust, they are fine. There is no audible noise coming from the hub. Nothing is dislodged from where it should be. I held my hand over the axle and can feel it. I also inspected the driveshaft and see no play on each rotation. There is nothing else that would account for the noise in my opinion, so I will bring it to the shop today for them to inspect as well. azdifferential gets tossed around here a lot so I'll be heading over there. I can't trust myself to do the swap. Stay tuned
 

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Good Luck! And Good Job On Taking It To The Shop And Not Waiting For It To Get Worse !! :) :)
 
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