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Should i go with a cold air kit or just put a K&N filter and do the air box mod? I really dont care about gaining more power... all i want is better fuel mileage! Thanks for the help guys
 

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Probably wouldn't see much as far as mileage increase, and even if you did it would most likely take a while to recoup the money spent on even just the filter...I've had both, never noticed a difference in mileage..power, a little difference but not mileage.
 

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I just did the air box mod and K&N filter on '11 T. I can feel a difference in throttle response for sure, but I just did it two days ago and can't comment on fuel mileage just yet.
 

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IMHO risk outweighs gains. Its fairly well documented that Cotton Gauze filters do not filter as well as OEM filters...more crap in engine = more wear in engine.
 

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IMHO risk outweighs gains. Its fairly well documented that Cotton Gauze filters do not filter as well as OEM filters...more crap in engine = more wear in engine.
This is only true if the filter is not maintained properly.
 

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IMHO risk outweighs gains. Its fairly well documented that Cotton Gauze filters do not filter as well as OEM filters...more crap in engine = more wear in engine.
I wish people would just STOP putting this bullsh*t on the forums. Some butt-head 8 years ago gets the idea of creating a cold-air cone rubber so he can just laugh all the way to the bank and then all of a sudden K&N type filters become "bad" to use.

K&N filters have been used in race track and street applications for over 45 to 50 years and there hasn't been one single engine that has ever broken down as a result of using K&N cotten gauze type filters.

You don't need paper filters and you don't need filter rubbers. Nothing is going to happen to an engine using K&N type filters. PERIOD...end of BS story once and freakin for all!!
 

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IMO, intakes are a waste of money, especially on a stock or near stock vehicle.

You'd be better off buying a tuner and using the "economy" setting for better mpg.
 

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IMO, intakes are a waste of money, especially on a stock or near stock vehicle.

You'd be better off buying a tuner and using the "economy" setting for better mpg.
If a person replaces the stock filter system with a cold-air kit some power and torque gains will be made. Add a exhaust that opens up the engine's ability to breath and you will see alot of gain. Throw in a dyno-tune and you will get a perfect A/F ratio if the programmer knows what he is doing. And it usually results in getting another bump in HP and TQ and begin to see a 1 or 2 MPG fuel improvement.

That is why it is a best practice to do both the air-box and the exhaust together as one single mod event and follow it up soon after with a dyno-tune at some point.
 

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I would go with either the K&N of the Amsoil Ea filter with the stock intake
 

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If a person replaces the stock filter system with a cold-air kit some power and torque gains will be made. Add a exhaust that opens up the engine's ability to breath and you will see alot of gain. Throw in a dyno-tune and you will get a perfect A/F ratio if the programmer knows what he is doing. And it usually results in getting another bump in HP and TQ and begin to see a 1 or 2 MPG fuel improvement.

That is why it is a best practice to do both the air-box and the exhaust together as one single mod event and follow it up soon after with a dyno-tune at some point.
I agree that a CAI is a mod which performs best when coupled with complimentary mods . However, you have to consider the cost of the intake, exhaust and dyno tune when factoring in that the OP wants better mileage. How long will it take to pay back those mods in the form of gas savings?

Sure, those mods will give more power, but since the OP stated that he isn't interested in power gains, it's a moot point.

For the money, I feel that buying a hand held programmer and using the economy tune is the cheapest way to go.

If the OP is dead set on a CAI or K&N filter, I suppose I'd vote for the drop in K&N filter.
 

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I agree that a CAI is a mod which performs best when coupled with complimentary mods . However, you have to consider the cost of the intake, exhaust and dyno tune when factoring in that the OP wants better mileage. How long will it take to pay back those mods in the form of gas savings?

Sure, those mods will give more power, but since the OP stated that he isn't interested in power gains, it's a moot point.

For the money, I feel that buying a hand held programmer and using the economy tune is the cheapest way to go.

If the OP is dead set on a CAI or K&N filter, I suppose I'd vote for the drop in K&N filter.
I completely agree with your ROI on mods to fuel cost savings. However I once made a similar argument on the 370Z forum and even supplied best practice cost / HP gain dollar figures and etc to prove my point and I got laughed off the board. The figures I provided were rock solid and had been proven since 1997. But they still laughed at what I had to say.

So I concluded from that incident that people no longer give a crap about ROI or cost savings and I have to assume most people are just plain dumb and don't have any common sense anymore and that they suffer from mod-madness which renders them brain-dead.

Image is more important than their pocket book and families.
 

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GregK said:
This is only true if the filter is not maintained properly.
actually K&N filters have shown to filter better the dirtier they are.

I wish people would just STOP putting this bullsh*t on the forums. Some butt-head 8 years ago gets the idea of creating a cold-air cone rubber so he can just laugh all the way to the bank and then all of a sudden K&N type filters become "bad" to use.

K&N filters have been used in race track and street applications for over 45 to 50 years and there hasn't been one single engine that has ever broken down as a result of using K&N cotten gauze type filters.

You don't need paper filters and you don't need filter rubbers. Nothing is going to happen to an engine using K&N type filters. PERIOD...end of BS story once and freakin for all!!
Send your oil to blackstone laboratories and come back and spout that this is BS. I'm sorry for hurting your ego, but you are wrong.

Racing, wanna talk racing? okay, well race engines are rebuilt on a regular basis, they are not interested in longevity of the engine, as long as it makes it through the race (which is why more than a few dragsters run no air filter).
They are only interested in peak numbers....so less filter is better for them.

If you take me up on my challenge (which you won't) you will see your silica count will be elevated.

I'm not saying your engine will fail after 50k miles, I'm saying it won't be in as good of shape as it would have been if you'd have run a proper filter. and an oil analysis would be your only way to prove me wrong or right....but I've seen it many times before where a K&N lets in more dirt, and that dirt makes it to the oil, and blackstone notes the increase.

Do what you will, as I won't be buying your truck...and its not my problem. But spouting off that I am full of BS is not only wrong, but its ignorant. So do your homework and come back.:kiss:
 

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actually K&N filters have shown to filter better the dirtier they are.



Send your oil to blackstone laboratories and come back and spout that this is BS. I'm sorry for hurting your ego, but you are wrong.

Racing, wanna talk racing? okay, well race engines are rebuilt on a regular basis, they are not interested in longevity of the engine, as long as it makes it through the race (which is why more than a few dragsters run no air filter).
They are only interested in peak numbers....so less filter is better for them.

If you take me up on my challenge (which you won't) you will see your silica count will be elevated.

I'm not saying your engine will fail after 50k miles, I'm saying it won't be in as good of shape as it would have been if you'd have run a proper filter. and an oil analysis would be your only way to prove me wrong or right....but I've seen it many times before where a K&N lets in more dirt, and that dirt makes it to the oil, and blackstone notes the increase.

Do what you will, as I won't be buying your truck...and its not my problem. But spouting off that I am full of BS is not only wrong, but its ignorant. So do your homework and come back.:kiss:
Give me a freaking break. I did those tests with a 2003 Cobra Mustang at 50K miles after running the car with a K&N cone since the day after I left the dealer lot with it. I kept running the K&N and did another test at 92K miles and there was no difference in the results. And I didn't give the car up until another 25K later still running the K&N and it was still running strong, tight and in compression spec.

And BTW..you still didn't show me one single historically documented example of any track or street car that had failed its engine due to using a cotton gauze filter.

So be a hype-sucker and waste your cash. :bangit:
 

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jesus christ half of u guys dont even have 100 posts its like lookin at a bunch of dooshes trying to our test one another. i run 12's with a stock air intake a 4 inch ram air and an air box mod with a fram high flow air filter. do that and ull see mpg gains :) the faster u get air in and out of ur engine the better fuel mileage and hp u get :) IVE BEEN THERE AND BACK SO PROVE ME WRONG. CLOSE THREAD .............................................
 
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BJ, I was thinking along those lines...silly noobs..

To the OP, like others have said, just get yourself a tuner that would give you the ability to select economy tune. Leave the stock air box and buy a K&N drop in filter. Your save money in the long run by not buying the paper filters every 3-6k.

L
 

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*yawns. The number of ones posts has no bearing on the level of knowledge on a particular subject. Your inability to see this as fact is only more evidence of your lack of knowledge and maturity.

Enjoy your K&N's. as I've stated its not my problem what you run, but advising everyone to run them on the blind notion that they are the best thing since sliced bread is both arrogant and ignorant. It is not worth my time to try to convince you how wrong you are. However I do encourage anyone who is open minded enough to imagine that their hypothesis could be incorrect to do some research on other forums (its a large world outside of this one forum). You may be suprised with what you find (I know I was).
 

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*yawns. The number of ones posts has no bearing on the level of knowledge on a particular subject. Your inability to see this as fact is only more evidence of your lack of knowledge and maturity.

Enjoy your K&N's. as I've stated its not my problem what you run, but advising everyone to run them on the blind notion that they are the best thing since sliced bread is both arrogant and ignorant. It is not worth my time to try to convince you how wrong you are. However I do encourage anyone who is open minded enough to imagine that their hypothesis could be incorrect to do some research on other forums (its a large world outside of this one forum). You may be suprised with what you find (I know I was).
Explain how K&N managed to get vehicle manufacturers on board with not voiding warranties?
 

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Using S&B Titan filter data (oiled cotton gauze), the OEM panel filter has 99.73% filtering efficiency compared to S&B's 99.19% efficiency, but the OEM filter flows 30% less air on average. ISO test results are linked to this page: http://www.sbfilters.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1060/.f
 

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My other vehicle is a 1997 Jeep Wrangler which I purchased new and at the first oil change (3k miles) I switched to Mobile 1 and added a K&N drop-in filter. My Jeep now has 193k miles on it and the same K&N air filter which I have cleaned about 5 times. It does not smoke and has never used any significant amount of oil between oil changes, not enough to add oil anyway.

It stands to reason that if an air filter allows more air flow then it may also allow more dirt to get by and in this case I don’t think it’s enough to matter……even in the long run.

Yeah my Jeep may have minimal damage from using a K&N but I can’t tell and if it blows up tomorrow I will continue to use K&N air filters.
 
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