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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
How I removed my center console (according to what I remember):

1. apply parking brake, shift trans to neutral, disconnect battery, remove front seats

2. remove left and right side lower trim panels at bottom front of console under dash, next to floor. They are held on by plastic clips.

3. remove two phillips screws under lower trim panels at the front lower side portions of the center console

4. unscrew and remove gear shift knob

5. open hinged console box lid and pull rubber mat w/CD holder from bottom of center console box & remove three screws (2 phillips & 1 torx)

6. remove two exposed bolts, one on each side of center console toward the rear

7. pry & pull out small plastic square just rearward of shift gate assembly & just forward of small open box area. it is held by clips

8. pull up on shift gate assembly to unclip

9. disconnect wire connectors under shift gate assembly and disengage wire connector plastic holding clips from holes

10. pull shift gate assembly up past shift lever and set aside (you can't do this with shifter in park)

11. remove two phillips screws under shift gate assembly at forward end of console

12. Pull up on flange of metal spring clip to release shift cable (very little force required)

13. wipe a little of the excess silicon grease on the bushing for the shift cable yoke and push the yoke sideways off of the bushing, toward the passenger door.

14. lift rear of console and move rearward

15. remove console from truck to reveal console bracket

16. remove obvious bolts to disengage bracket from floor.


During reassembly, you need to pay attention to in which gear the shift lever is positioned, and corresponding placement in the shift gate assembly. You also need to pay attention to the white plastic interlock bars in the shift assembly.

A few photos follow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
And the point of all this was to put down sound insulation consisting of 2 layers of brown bread and 1 layer of V comp from www.bquiet.com


The only significant problem that I encountered was that the bolts that secure the center console bracket to the floor are treated with a copious quantity of some green thread lock crap from hell. These bolts engage round nuts (yes, amazing, but true) that are glued underneath the truck. So one of these nuts broke loose from the bottom of the truck before the green thread lock broke loose. So I put a pipe on the ratchet handle for leverage and had my son crank the ratchet handle while I crawled under the truck and held the round nut with a cam clamp closed end wrench. No big deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I went out of town in the middle of the project, so a long time. If I knew then what I know now, I could do the floor on a Saturday. Once you know how to get the console out, it seems easier to do the floor than the doors.
 

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wow!!!!! nice pics

im doing my floors next weekend, Im spraying though as I ran out of mat--lol--I only had one roll


dude you should send pics to bquiet/edesigns I bet they would sponsor your ride somehow as you are the first titan I am sure. good way to get your money back:)

good job though nice and thorough!!!!!!!! excellent
 

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Nicely done man, when I get in the middle of doing mine i'm sure I will be asking you some questions. heheh.



-Shane
 

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hey bestatchess, man I did my floors and the back wall today, and goodnes gracious it took me a good 7hrs or so. I did two layers on the back panel and the rear hump areas, and then sprayed the cascade on it I used almost three cans, and then one layer on the flloors up to the firewall. I layed the ensulit foam over the brown bread on all the floors and used 3m spray stick to adhere it to the mat.

I used a entire 70sq ft roll--geez these titan are big--lol. I have to spray the inside of my doors tommorrow to get rid of all the music that I can hear when I stanmd outside of the door. I only have 5 cans left of the cascade I hope I have enough. I havent tested the car out yet as I had to wait fof the cascade liquid dampener to dry.

for those that are looking to do this buy three rolls (or 210 sq ft)!! as you need one roll to do all the doors with one layer, and one roll to do the floors. the extra roll is to double up the mat as it woks way better if you can lay down two layers versus one. I would have put two on the floor if I had another roll.

oh and the spray works great (make sure you have some goof off to clean the panels incase of splatter though or tape of better than I did:)) and PLEASE tape off the seat belt nylon---I made that mistake so I have black specs on my rear seat belts in my new car :) oh well only my kids car seats ride back there anyway

Id highly recommend that folks take one day to remove all the seats and carpet--take a break and then do the mat the next day. IF you spray or use some other liquid dampener give yourself another 24 hrs of drying time

make sure you mark all the the holes properly, and having two people makes a world of difference so get some help. I would take pictures, but all youwoudl see would match bestatchess pics. the only difference would be that my rear wall is black from the spray deadener--and he used a better foam in the vcomp than my ensulite as the vcomp is thicker I believe

late

oh yeah bestatchess what did you do about the littel filter on the back wall inpic # 2 on post # 3?? I just matted over mine as I tried to remove that thing at it wouldnt release into the cab. well see if it cause some weird problem in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Good work!!

The filter thing you are talking about on the back wall is a one-way air valve to let air out of the cabin for HVAC flow and for when you slam the doors. The carpet for the back wall has some insulation in the bulged out region over this vent. I saw some pics of a stereo install on another brand of truck (Ford?) and they had the same type of vent, except there were two of them, one on each side of the rear wall, but only about half as wide.

But yes, I thought about covering it up as it looks like a big exhaust & road noise inlet positioned right over a big noise source. As far as problems, maybe it will make the cab stuffier, make the windows fog up more, or make it hard to slam the door with the windows closed. Let me know if you experience any problems, as I bet that vent is a pretty big noise entrance source, but I was afraid to cover mine up.
 

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hey bestatchess any idea how to pull the top liner off so i can do the roof?? i have to order another roll=lol

oh and the spray cans work well , just messy. if I gad to do it again Id just use mat ot the liquid dampener that you can use a brush--my rear seat belts are a mess
 

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The headliner sucks just got done doing it.. The visors can be a @#$%% to put back on everything else is smooth. Makes the most difference in the cab doing the roof if you have subs firing upward.
 

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lizardking said:
The headliner sucks just got done doing it.. The visors can be a @#$%% to put back on everything else is smooth. Makes the most difference in the cab doing the roof if you have subs firing upward.
got any tip on removal and preperation work, and things you did wrong or to look out for??
 

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It's real straight forward. Pull door seals down, remove overhead console, dome light, coat hooks, remove rearview mirror wire case, king cab door latch cover, sunvisors (pay close attention how you remove these for re-assembly), remove headliner fastners at rear above sliding window, and the body side trim at rear of truck pillars. That's just about it, I believe.
 

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hey lizard how much did you use to do the roof?? Sq ft wise --I need to figure out how many more rolls of brown bread I need to buy. what sound deadener did you use by the way??

also our rofof metal is very thin so even rain sounds like it is beating the heck out of it--did you use one or two layers to filter out the exterior sounds?

also since I may add the DVD monitor any idea what cables I would need to run up their so I only have to remove the headliner once.
 
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