[porky1989]

Hello all,

I have a problem with my 2011 Titan, I had to replace the AC condenser and while i was at it i replaced the radiator with a CSF. Since the install the trucks coolant temp goes up to 220 at idle and having the AC at full blast. I bleed the system already about 4 times, I replaced the radiator and reserve cap with OEM ones, my antifreeze levels are at max in the reserve and full in the rad. My fan is working and on when temp goes up. I don't know what else to do!!! Do you guys think i need to replace my thermostat? Any ideas, any help will be appreciated.

Thanks,

 

[carbonduc27]

Being a Titan owner chasing overheating issues (not this bad though) I would get out my infrared temp gun and look for hot spots in the radiator - do different sections vary in temp. I would replace the thermostat since this is very extreme. Something could have logged in it with all the parts swapping.

Keep us posted please. I have a CSF radiator to install in a few weeks. And I am also swapping the water pump while i am in there. I am sure you dont really want to go back in that deep though - start with the thermostat - it is pretty easy to swap

Good Luck

 

[Matt11256]

Only use a oem thermostat to I had bought a autozone one and it was built like crap compared to a oem nissan Stat. Also when it gets hot spray the radiator with water (gently) if that dont fix it then its definitely the thermostat

 

[SE Off Road1]

What CSF did you install, plastic tank or Aluminum?

Were you having overheat problems before swapping radiator? I would make sure there is no air trapped and bleed again. Not sure of your process but remove reservoir cap not rad cap, start truck and allow it to come up to normal temp. Once up to normal temp allow to run several more minutes at idle with heat on high. Replace cap and take it for a ride. Do not shut off with cap removed.

Did you mix 50/50? What coolant did you use? Yes on the t-stat and use only OEM. Is your clutch fan working properly? How many miles on truck?

 

[Nick Name]

There are two temp sensors within the coolant system. Pull both and test with a multimeter. If one or both are bad, then you found your problem. Both good, then the issue is within the work you did.

 

[porky1989]

I got the Aluminum radiator. I used the 50/50 mixture of coolant. Do you think it could be my fan clutch? The truck only has 65000 miles on it. I don't think the fan clutch is bad, but how can I check?

 

[gweasel77]

I would check the T-Stat like others have already mentioned.

I am also running the all aluminum 2 Row CSF Rad & it has been a great addition to my Titans cooling system! I also run a "modded" Nissan 300ZX Nismo 170*F T-Stat in my '05.

I have had it installed for several years now w/o any issues. It effectively lowered my coolant temps by 10*-15*. (monitored via Up/Rev Cipher)

 

[porky1989]

I would check the T-Stat like others have already mentioned.

I am also running the all aluminum 2 Row CSF Rad & it has been a great addition to my Titans cooling system! I also run a "modded" Nissan 300ZX Nismo 170*F T-Stat in my '05.

I have had it installed for several years now w/o any issues. It effectively lowered my coolant temps by 10*-15*. (monitored via Up/Rev Cipher)

I also installed a new OEM T-sta and i'm still having the same problem. Yesterday i had the AC full blast ant temp outside was about 70 and my coolant went up to 204 at idle. I'm thinking it could be a bad Clutch fan

 

[porky1989]

What CSF did you install, plastic tank or Aluminum?

Were you having overheat problems before swapping radiator? I would make sure there is no air trapped and bleed again. Not sure of your process but remove reservoir cap not rad cap, start truck and allow it to come up to normal temp. Once up to normal temp allow to run several more minutes at idle with heat on high. Replace cap and take it for a ride. Do not shut off with cap removed.

Did you mix 50/50? What coolant did you use? Yes on the t-stat and use only OEM. Is your clutch fan working properly? How many miles on truck?

I got the Aluminum radiator. I used the 50/50 mixture of coolant. Do you think it could be my fan clutch? The truck only has 65000 miles on it. I don't think the fan clutch is bad, but how can I check?

 

[Nick Name]

When you are only guessing at what it could be, then it could be anything. Take some steps to eliminate causes and you'll zero in on what's really happening.

First, look at the underside of the radiator cap and the underside of the oil filler cap. If they have a goo forming, then there's a good chance a head gasket is leaking...a definite cause of overheating.....and bigger problems. Want to verify....with the radiator cap off and the car at operating temp rev the engine.....you'll see bubbles in the radiator fluid....that's exhaust leaking into the cooling system. If ok, then:

From a cold start with the hood up.. watch the needle....as it gets to the high read, feel the top hose and the bottom hose. If the temps are close, the t-stat is fine. From time to time, I've come across a DIY that replaced the stat, radiator etc. and then claimed overheating.....stat was installed upside down... Before you install a stat...do the hot water test to make absolute certain it's a good one. Saves time.

Pull the fan...go to a dealership and compare the tension with a new one. If a big difference, spend the money. Not a big difference, reinstall the original.

That temp sensor....if it goes bad, you'll get bad reads. Did you test it yet?

Water pumps wear out and don't always make noises when they do. If you have enough miles and everything else is checking out.......

 

[porky1989]

When you are only guessing at what it could be, then it could be anything. Take some steps to eliminate causes and you'll zero in on what's really happening.

First, look at the underside of the radiator cap and the underside of the oil filler cap. If they have a goo forming, then there's a good chance a head gasket is leaking...a definite cause of overheating.....and bigger problems. Want to verify....with the radiator cap off and the car at operating temp rev the engine.....you'll see bubbles in the radiator fluid....that's exhaust leaking into the cooling system. If ok, then:

From a cold start with the hood up.. watch the needle....as it gets to the high read, feel the top hose and the bottom hose. If the temps are close, the t-stat is fine. From time to time, I've come across a DIY that replaced the stat, radiator etc. and then claimed overheating.....stat was installed upside down... Before you install a stat...do the hot water test to make absolute certain it's a good one. Saves time.

Pull the fan...go to a dealership and compare the tension with a new one. If a big difference, spend the money. Not a big difference, reinstall the original.

That temp sensor....if it goes bad, you'll get bad reads. Did you test it yet?

Water pumps wear out and don't always make noises when they do. If you have enough miles and everything else is checking out.......

The rad cap and oil cap look fine, I don't see any goo stuff. I haven't checked the sensor, truck only has 65000 miles on it and not throwing any temp codes. I had read in a previous post that if I try to spin the fan after driving the truck and im able to freely spin without any resistance then those are signs of a bad fan clutch. I tried that yesterday and I was able to spin the fan without much resistance. Don't know if what I read was accurate, what you guys think?

 

[Nick Name]

Ok. You think 65K is soon enough for a fan clutch failure, but too soon for a sensor failure? That sensor is not part of the CAN system...it reports to the gauge only. In my previous post I said there were two water temp sensors.....the other one reports to the ECU for input to the fuel delivery....that one may throw a code and when it goes bad it either reports a hot condition or a cold condition to the ECU and the fuel delivery reacts accordingly.

Here.....good luck. http://www.mwrench.com/Whitepapers/FanClutchtest.pdf

 

[HRTKD]

I was able to spin the fan without much resistance. Don't know if what I read was accurate, what you guys think?

Sounds like a bad fan clutch. It should be somewhat stiff to turn when the engine is hot. If this only happens at idle then that is another clue that the clutch fan isn't doing its job.

 

[porky1989]

Hey guys, so I replaced the fan clutch and I still have the same problem with the over heating at idle and AC on blast. I bleed the coolant system again and it continues to overheat. Im thinking it could be a bad water pump. Does it matter what kind of coolant I'm using? I put the Yellow Prestone which it said it could be mixed with any other coolant. Did anyone ever have this problem when they switch to the CSF radiator? This same problem happen to be when I had the OEM radiator so don't think is the radiator but it could be. I'm just lost at this moment and want to get it fixed!!

 

[HRTKD]

I used the cheap Wal-mart 50/50 coolant and the Prestone 50/50 coolant in my radiator and didn't have any issue.

 

[Nick Name]

You don't say. You must have hit the lotto. Replace the sensor already. Of the things you've done.....it's the cheapest fix....and the easiest to diagnose with a multimeter ($4 at harbor freight?).

Your water pump is fine. All you need to do remove the rad cap, then rev the engine a bit after the engine is up to temp (in your case do NOT rely on the gauge for that! use an ifrared thermometer ($19 at harbor freight) or stick your finger in the fluid until it's uncomfortable to leave it in.) and if the fluid moves up down or sideways in the rad, the pump is working.

The other 'most likely' cause of your problem, I pointed out earlier....a brand new thermostat installed upside down. Consider that if 1. the coolant isn't really getting hot, regardless of what the gauge is telling you 2. you replaced the sensor without testing it.