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I found out today that one of my manifolds is definitely cracked and the other possibly is and after the quote from the dealer on a factory fix I figure headers are the best way to go looking for recommendations and tips not real sure what I will need and what all it will involve changing. My truck is a 06CC all stock except for an Injen CAI.
 

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I found out today that one of my manifolds is definitely cracked and the other possibly is and after the quote from the dealer on a factory fix I figure headers are the best way to go looking for recommendations and tips not real sure what I will need and what all it will involve changing. My truck is a 06CC all stock except for an Injen CAI.
What were the symptoms of the crack?
 

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I found out today that one of my manifolds is definitely cracked and the other possibly is and after the quote from the dealer on a factory fix I figure headers are the best way to go looking for recommendations and tips not real sure what I will need and what all it will involve changing. My truck is a 06CC all stock except for an Injen CAI.
Be sure its not under the emissions warranty, its a 8 year/ 80,000 mile warranty, if you have less than 80,000 miles, then the dealers will replace for free.
 

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Long tube headers, Berk B-pipes, Uprev. Might as well slap on a cat-back (e.g. JBA) as the 06 Y-pipe is pretty crushed). Definitely don't want to allow the factory tail pipe to rust out and melt the wiring harness. There was a group buy on the B-pipes, dunno if that is still active. You can DIY all of that, bolt-on, w/o any welding, allow a full day or two, not particularly easy, especially on 4x4, requires a little engine jacking. Make sure not to turn the steering wheel with the steering shaft disconnected as you will break the spiral electric cable in the steering wheel.

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/tit...erk-technology-b-pipe-interest-group-buy.html

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/tit...ns/93408-dt-header-installation-progress.html

There was a thread about the DT long tubes rusting in salty road winter environment, although if you contact them they apparently now offer an SS 304 version.
 

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I would def opt for the headers and get rid of that cheap factory manifold. I just replaced my whole exhaust. Both of my manifolds were cracked. I couldnt drive around sounding like that anymore. LOL Keep in mind your exhaust will be louder and you will most likely have drone. I am in the process of getting rid of the drone on my system now. If your looking for a cheap set-up check my sig. I got the headers from a member here for 525 shipped and the jba catback for 360 shipped. Opted not to spend the extra cash for the stillen b pipes.
 

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Why do I need to replace my manifold?

I guess i get about 11 mpg now.
If i get new headers is my MPG gonna jump way up?

Is it even worth spending that kinda dough?
Im happy with my performance now and not looking to get my truck any faster
 

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11 :huh: Are you lifted w/ oversize tires? Is this all city driving?
ya, 8 inches w 35s. I know it makes my speedo off a little but my best guesstimation is about 11.

i just switched to syn 5-20w on accident and switched to amsoil rear fluid and got 11.5 hw, which i think is about 12.2 actual or so. I need to do it w my gps to get actual mileage. Boy was I pumped. Lots of cops out so i was under 75 the whole time. that could have been the main reason
 

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I've been reading for the last couple hours on the manifold issue and now have an explanation as to why my mileage has dropped and I have these funny sounds until it warms up. I'm not getting the card in the spokes sound, more like a sporadic whistle/air type sound I can hear with the windows up...frequency matches the rpm's.

I'll just add it to the list....unknown front end noise, constant alignment issues, shaking at 65 mph, squeaky door hinges, skid plate rattling, crappy caps falling off seatbelt mounts. All this with 47,000 miles!

Tows like a beast though....
 
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