[LSturbointeg]

So I believe I blew my bearings. You can hear it while it's turning as the family and I barely made it home from the gym. You can hear it squealing as I'm driving and started to get worst. Had a hard time backing up into my parking spot turning the wheel at the same time. Steering wheel had some vibrations driving so I'm really positive it's the hub bearings. Truck has 192k so I'm sure it was ready to go. Especially when I had to smack those *itches out when I swap to the Maxtrac spindles. Also, probably didn't help with those 2" hub centric spacers. Not very hard to swap just the fact I gotta pull most of the suspension out. So from what I describe does it sound like the bearings?

 

[ArmAir1]

Hopefully it just bearings and not a broken hub like I have....

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-suspension/375450-broken-front-wheel-hub-casting.html

 

[LSturbointeg]

well i'm sitting at work thinking of what else it can be and it got me thinking. it might...it might be my driver side caliper bolt broke and it might be sitting on top of the rotor causing all the screaching sound and possibly the shimming vibrations in my steering wheel. when going over train tracks the suspension feels pretty solid still! i know what a bearing failure feels like since i experienced them on my other vehicles. reason i'm thinking it's the caliper bolt is if you followed my on my Build Thread when i replaced my LCA's i broke one of the bolts on the caliper due to over tightening. so i went to Lowe's i believe or Ace Hardware and used a regular bolt i think? i'm thinking with the extreme heat from the caliper when pressing on the brakes that over time it was only a matter of time until that bolt decided to say *uck it! i remember a few days before my wife used the truck and called me on the way to work and mentioned that the brakes were making a weird noise. brakes and rotors and somewhat new since i just changed them back in November i think but also i remember just yesterday when i put the truck in "Drive" i felt the brakes respond as if the caliper was sticking if you know what i mean? i can't confirm this until i go home in the morning and look at the caliper bolt. if it is it should be missing the head. which is a real easy fix as all i have to to is extract the broken bolt again and pick one up from the Dealership. again, this is just me thinking about what it could be? i'll post back here tomorrow or the following day.

 

[honda250xtitan]

did you do the 9 and 3 check to see if its the hub? or is it 12 and 6? lol idk. too much whiskey.

 

[LSturbointeg]

 

[honda250xtitan]

lol

 

[Walrus]

I see blood.
Everybody wants to see blood as long as it isn't their own.

 

[dreep]

Nice, Walrus, nice...

LS, hopefully no other damage?

To get OE replacements, the (very cryptic) Nissan parts system shows that they are part of the "Boot Pin Kit" P/N D0135-ZC60A which lists for about $22. Courtesy has for about $17, but if you need fast, dealer should have them. Kit includes a pair of bolts, the small boot, and the two caliper sliding pins. Torque spec on the sliding pin bolts is 53 ft-lbs (not to be confused with the "torque member bolts" which spec at 155 ft-lbs).

Dealer may also be able to just replace the bolts, but I can't get that to come up separately in the parts system, FWIW..

Cheers.

 

[LSturbointeg]

So my truck has been sitting at the apartment for a couple of days since I'm here working on the new house and finally got a chance to go back and take a look at my truck. The picture I posted earlier was when I broke the caliper bolt the first time so I was thinking maybe that's what the problem was? Wasn't it! Caliper bolt is intact so it's gotta be the bearings. Already ordered the hub bearings with new sensors but looks like I'll receive it some time next week. Freaking sux but hopefully the weather won't be so cold to work in since I can't fit my truck in the new garage!

 

[HRTKD]

Doesn't sound like a hub bearing to me. I would jack it up and check out the play in the wheel and verify rotation produces noise at the bearing.

 

[BWV]

....1)Truck has 192k....2) smack those *itches ....3)2" hub centric spacers....

#1... probably close to that time anyway
#3... extra wear factor
but I'm betting #2 put em over the edge... If you had to hit the hub at all to get them free, they'd be shot in short order even if the truck only had 10,000 miles on it.

It'll be nice to have brand new bearings in that beautiful rig you built

 

[LSturbointeg]

#1... probably close to that time anyway
#3... extra wear factor
but I'm betting #2 put em over the edge... If you had to hit the hub at all to get them free, they'd be shot in short order even if the truck only had 10,000 miles on it.

It'll be nice to have brand new bearings in that beautiful rig you built

When I swapped them out at the time I thought about getting some new one's but cheaped out on it. I did have some concerns as I did my Thor impression knocking them out. :devil: I did notice a bit of whining noise recently and thought it was the mud tires but with the thought in my mind that $hit, I think those are my bearings making noise? :eek_surprise: But with that high mileage I figured it was that time anyways. Thanks for the compliment!

 

[BWV]

I have ruined lots of bearings in my life hehehehe...out of necessity, lack of funding, couldn't get it apart without a hammer, being in a hurry, trying to recycle...and... knowing I was gonna replace it soon anyway... you name it.

One whack with a hammer makes a little pit in the ball(s) and/or race, or worse, frees a chip, in/of some very hard steel. Then every time one of those balls in there roll over that chip, a little impression is made, that impression and/or chip leads to more dings/chips every time that little ball rolls over, then more, and more... then come sadness and more work.

I dunno if its geometric procession or not... but it gets ugly quick!

I'm amazed wheelbearings last as long as they do in normal service...potholes, curbs, etc...

 

[LSturbointeg]

i've been thinking about the best way to press them in? not to worry about how i'm going to take it out but i'm trying to remember what's the best alternative to pressing them in without using the hammer? i'm guessing a plastic mallet would still be an issue or maybe use c-clamps and tighten them down?

 

[Pale Rider]

throw them in the freezer for 24 hrs.

and replace that caliper bolt with the correct nissan bolt...

 

[BWV]

^^^^ What he said ^^^^

The bores on your knuckles should be clean already.. that stuff's all new right ?

Make sure you start them straight, you should be able to pull them in with the bolts I think... lemme go look in the FSM

 

[BWV]

Well... the FSM is all but useless in this regard.. it says:

Removal
(I'll skip the parts we all know already...)
7. Remove wheel hub and bearing assembly bolts using power tool.
8. Remove splash guard and wheel hub and bearing assembly from steering knuckle.

INSTALLATION
Installation is in the reverse order of removal.
• Use new bolts when installing the wheel hub and bearing assembly.
• Tighten drive shaft nut to specification.Refer to FAX-8, "Removal and Installation".


So... I'd go with:
Chill the hub assembly and draw it in with the oe bolts if possible.(It should go pretty easy...)
Longer bolts might help if the oe don't reach.
If you are replacing the bolts... use the old ones to pull it in so you dont distort the new ones.

 

[honda250xtitan]

Well... the FSM is all but useless in this regard.. it says:

Removal
(I'll skip the parts we all know already...)
7. Remove wheel hub and bearing assembly bolts using power tool.
8. Remove splash guard and wheel hub and bearing assembly from steering knuckle.

INSTALLATION
Installation is in the reverse order of removal.
• Use new bolts when installing the wheel hub and bearing assembly.
• Tighten drive shaft nut to specification.Refer to FAX-8, "Removal and Installation".


So... I'd go with:
Chill the hub assembly and draw it in with the oe bolts if possible.(It should go pretty easy...)
Longer bolts might help if the oe don't reach.
If you are replacing the bolts... use the old ones to pull it in so you dont distort the new ones.

I think we used a couple longer bolts to suck it in and then obviously swapped those out for OEM bolts to finish it off. This was back in 08.

 

[HRTKD]

I cleaned the opening in the spindle really well and it didn't require too much effort to seat the hub. I think I might have thrown in some anti-seize grease.