[JauntyBishop]

Maybe one day someone will have this done if they are baller, but I figured I'd compile the information found, into this one thread on the first page.


2007+ OEM 2 piece drive shaft specifications

Overall length 82’’

Front shaft weld to weld is 21-1/8"

Rear shaft section weld to weld is 43-3/16"

Rear shaft to Diff. Bolt hole center to center (between bolts) Length is 3", Diagonal 4.28"

Front Shaft:Center of front U-joint to carrier bearing is 24 1/2"

Rear shaft:Rear shaft center of U-joint to rear U- joint center 47 1/2"

Center:Center of carrier bearing to center of middle U-joint 10"

Input shaft 1.377" ID 1.730" OD 4.01" L and is 30 splines

TOTAL 2 Piece Steel Driveshaft weight 45lbs



Just so everyone knows, you can't just swap the 4x4 aluminum driveshafts into the 2wd titans, won't work. The 4x4 have this thing called a Transfer case that makes up some distance.

The aluminum driveshafts on the 4x4 models are also larger in diameter.

I highly doubt anyone is going to make a single piece driveshaft that is 82" in length, the harmonics and adjusting pinion angle would be fun...

However, a custom 2 piece driveshaft that is carbon fiber that retains the use of a factory carrier bearing and just replacing those 40+ inch shafts to carbon fiber vs steel would indeed give a weight reduction in rotational mass without having to change the diameter of the shafts themselves.

Carbon fiber is very strong and is designed to fray when it comes apart vs exploding through your taint at high speeds like steel/aluminum.

In all seriousness, the factory steel driveshaft is very strong and haven't heard of anyone breaking one at a drag strip yet... so this idea of utilizing a Carbon fiber would be for those trying to gain back as much rotating loss via the powertrain as possible.

You drop 20lbs from the driveshaft, that is going to be more power transferred to the rear tire. Not necessarily adding, but just gaining back what was there in a sense.


Now for dyno gains and such, I pulled this from Nissan Z/G board where a G37 Coupe was tested before and after of stock vs Z1 motorsports aluminum driveshaft.


Stock Driveshaft OEM: 31.5lbs - Z1 motorsports Aluminum : 16.50lbs. Dyno was done at Hills Garage.
Drive shaft has an alcoa 6061 3.5" tube.. 6065 ends with dana/spicer U joints and splines and all that good stuff.. like i said 14.3 pounds lighter then stock!
There were 16 pulls between the before and after, they took the highest before run and the highest after run.

Before is RED and AFTER is BLUE
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f...7539509_160539469508_9414777_2081496708_n.jpg

Granted yes they are going from a factory 2 piece to a 1 piece, but the principal of rotational mass savings is the point here. Stock vs Z1 aluminum

Anyways, just something else to think about yet again. Plus I"m bored and felt like posting.


Also, in news of rotational mass, wheel weight!

Stock Infiniti Q60 wheels/tires are 63lb each. Then swapped to Volk TE37SL and corresponding tires that weighed 41lbs each. Picked up 13rwhp. Not bad at all.

So dropping rotational mass has its perks and can be measured at the rear wheels typically.

I myself am going from 100lb 20x10 wheels/tire combo that are 305/50r20 to factory 20x8 with Nitto 420s which weigh 82lbs. So a savings of 15-18lbs per side. Fronts will be different tire aspect ratio so weight will change some.

I'm going to try and do a before and after of this as well to see if there is a measurable gain. And will be done same day obviously.

Thats all i have for now.

Really wish more people were active in this section like it used to be a few years back. Freakin Facebook, instagram, Twatter, Slapchop, whatever...

 

[Lee-the-Impaler]

ANY reduction of weight suits the overall quest, as the ratio of power/weight is more applicably important than sheer power. Put a V8 Titan against a 1.8L I4 Lotus and you'll get it. But I'm sure of all ppl, YOU do get it bishop.

I've never thought about the rear DS on the Titan aside from that I often wondered at the ridiculous diameter of the aluminum monstrosity that drives the rear, maybe in name of balance? Strength isn't the issue, I've torqued the front tires off the ground MANY times while trailing, and the OEM DS (and U-joints, for the rear) are still perfect. if there's a greater strain on a driveshaft (other than burning out on dirt, only to catch traction on pavement a second later) than lifting the heavy end of the truck off the ground, I am unaware... Strong enough. Another thought, what would it cost to fab and flange up a CF spacer shaft to a 4x4 OEM DS? What pros and cons on an 'intermediate' companion flange, and what's the weight diff between OEM steel and OEM aluminum? would you need to get a custom carrier fabbed? The diameter of the aluminum rear DS is insane, so aside from weight differential? larger diameter, means that from a stop, the leverage to move a lighter shaft vs inertia might = the startup for a smaller shaft of heavier materials in straight numbers. Once turning, the lighter material will inevitably take the cake, but what does that mean for launches? You have my brain boiling, and now I want to know so I can sound smart over a beer... Find all the variables, and you'll get an answer on paper... which won't mean **** until you try it out, of course. Keep us posted.