Nissan Titan Forum banner
1 - 20 of 32 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
583 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a six inch lift accompanied with the bilstein 5100 struts on the middle perch. This is not ideal for a 4x4 but was playing around with the idea of using a cv axle spacer to get the connections in a better position. Basically the same concept as the driveshaft spacer used on lifted applications. I've seen a few people talk about it on here but haven't found a sticky on it. Has anyone tried it? Or what are your thoughts?

Thanks everyone!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
14,458 Posts
i highly doubt you're really straining the CV's that much. the lift kit keeps OEM geometry, so really you're only an inch outside of factory specs. doubt its worth the effort.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
583 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've just been investigating a creaking/cracking binding noise. Only seems to occur while driving slow through parking lots. I am at a loss of what it could be. That's why I was wondering if the CVs were binding


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
14,458 Posts
is it a hub going out?

ball joint creaking as the suspension moves over the uneven surface

Stock LCA's can be creaky too.

My pro comp lift on my 06 constantly creaked.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
583 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
is it a hub going out?

ball joint creaking as the suspension moves over the uneven surface

Stock LCA's can be creaky too.

My pro comp lift on my 06 constantly creaked.

I put on dirt king upper control arms not too long ago but haven't changed the lower ball joints. That could be. I did notice the lower control arms look like they can move forward and backward a bit. It almost looks like they are bending the RCX crossmember forward a bit!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
14,458 Posts
PRG sells a Delrin spacer kit, super easy install, i notched mine and just popped them in. helped big time.

they also have a bushing rebuild kit.

DK sells Boxed LCA's, they fix the problem for real though. I love mine.

The forward and backward movement will give you that light clunking noise/feeling you have in the floorboard when you hit small bumps
 

· Registered
Joined
·
583 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
PRG sells a Delrin spacer kit, super easy install, i notched mine and just popped them in. helped big time.

they also have a bushing rebuild kit.

DK sells Boxed LCA's, they fix the problem for real though. I love mine.

The forward and backward movement will give you that light clunking noise/feeling you have in the floorboard when you hit small bumps


I forgot they made spacers for that, I'll def pick some up, thanks for the suggestion. I would LOVE this boxed LCAs though lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
583 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Have you noticed any other clunking from other areas in the front end and found a fix for them? Just wanting to take not of all areas while I'm under there. I don't have a sway bar on so the endlinks aren't an issue


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
14,458 Posts
blisteins are installed correctly? thats all i can think of.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
14,458 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
4,258 Posts
Now what would the CV spacer accomplish? The diff is dropped down the same amount the LCA's are, so the shaft doesn't need to get any longer? Does the spindle push the hub out further? If it doesn't, i would think the CV spacer would actually make it bind.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
583 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Now what would the CV spacer accomplish? The diff is dropped down the same amount the LCA's are, so the shaft doesn't need to get any longer? Does the spindle push the hub out further? If it doesn't, i would think the CV spacer would actually make it bind.


I know the RCX lift drops the diff and the LCAs the same amount, the spacer would be in regards to the bilsteins being on a higher perch along with the newer 4x4 coils. I know this equates to extra height that wasn't accounted for in the RCX design. Thus like the driveshaft, on full droop would the cvs be pulled farther down? Idk if that makes sense but that was my logic at the time. Maybe the headache of trying to figure out the annoying creak is leading me to crazy theories haha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
14,458 Posts
Now what would the CV spacer accomplish? The diff is dropped down the same amount the LCA's are, so the shaft doesn't need to get any longer? Does the spindle push the hub out further? If it doesn't, i would think the CV spacer would actually make it bind.
lets say he's not on a bracket lift kit, but running a 2" spacer and cranked coilovers like I used to be....with all that lift, a longer CV won't help anyways. as the LCA drops, it swing in towards the frame. the distance from the Diff never changes correct? if anything a high performance CV from someone like RCV is whats best right?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,258 Posts
When you add more lift (like with your bilsteins being on a higher perch), it only changes the spindle side, not the frame side. So the diff, and lower control arm are still in the same spot. The only thing that happened was the CV is now at a greater angle. Now, if you put that spacer in there, you are ONLY moving the inner CV outwards, the outer CV stays in the same place. So now, the CV is actually at an even GREATER angle, and more stress is being put on it (not much, but it is).

The CV's dont have a whole lot of plunge to begin with, so the CV's have to work with the arms in almost an identical motion. So when the LCA drops, yes it does swing towards the frame, but maybe by fractions of an inch, and because the CV plunges inside of the inner CV, it will move towards the frame an inch as well.

Now when you put on that CV spacer, it will no longer follow the same arc that it was designed to, so now the CV might bind during suspension cycle.

Long story short, if it didnt come with the kit. You dont need it.

As for a higher performance CV, you absolutely could, but honestly, I think its not necessary. Our stock CV's hold up quite well. There are 4x4 drag guys putting close to, if not more, than 400hp through them in 4HI, on pavement. If you want more articulation out of them, i would suggest going Long travel or SAS.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
583 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
When you add more lift (like with your bilsteins being on a higher perch), it only changes the spindle side, not the frame side. So the diff, and lower control arm are still in the same spot. The only thing that happened was the CV is now at a greater angle. Now, if you put that spacer in there, you are ONLY moving the inner CV outwards, the outer CV stays in the same place. So now, the CV is actually at an even GREATER angle, and more stress is being put on it (not much, but it is).

The CV's dont have a whole lot of plunge to begin with, so the CV's have to work with the arms in almost an identical motion. So when the LCA drops, yes it does swing towards the frame, but maybe by fractions of an inch, and because the CV plunges inside of the inner CV, it will move towards the frame an inch as well.

Now when you put on that CV spacer, it will no longer follow the same arc that it was designed to, so now the CV might bind during suspension cycle.

Long story short, if it didnt come with the kit. You dont need it.


Thank you for going into detail, makes perfect sense now! I'll try the derlin spacers on the LCAs like Honda250xtitan suggested and go from there. Its just such an odd clunk/creak and it seems like it's resonating from the front driveline as it only happens on flat surfaces moving at a slow pace. Like something is binding. Almost can feel it in the floorboard. I checked the driveshaft going to the front diff too and it's fine. Idk the hunt continues


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,258 Posts
Anytime bud, im glad to help. Have you checked wheel bearings? Try jacking up the truck and spin the tire by hand, it should be silent, and slowly roll to a stop, if it stops abruptly, or you hear something, then more than likely its bad.

Also while its up. Try putting one hand on the top of the tire, and one hand on the bottom, and try and shake it in and out. If it moves up and down, its more than likely a wheel bearing, or a Ball Joint that is bad. A second person can confirm which it is while you shake.

You can also check the steering components the same way, but shaking the tire left to right. If it moves, its either the inner or outer tie rod. Or play in the steering rack, which you dont want! Again, a second person can confirm which it is while you shake.

After that, i would try pulling the half shafts out, and take it for a drive. Maybe they are worn out inside and causing noise? You can also remove the front driveline and take it for a drive too. Just because it looks good, and doesn't shake etc. Doesn't mean its particularly good. Once its out of the equation, then you'll know for sure!

Let us know how it goes!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6,128 Posts
6" Pro Comp Lift with Saw's cranked a little bit. 110k miles with this setup and have replaced my CV axles only once. I consider that normal for any 4WD pickup. I wouldn't waste the effort on this project.
 
  • Like
Reactions: honda250xtitan

· Registered
Joined
·
1,554 Posts
PRG sells a Delrin spacer kit, super easy install, i notched mine and just popped them in. helped big time.

they also have a bushing rebuild kit.

DK sells Boxed LCA's, they fix the problem for real though. I love mine.

The forward and backward movement will give you that light clunking noise/feeling you have in the floorboard when you hit small bumps
like you just cut them and slid them into place?
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top