So a couple weeks ago a deer ran into the side of the truck. Luckily the step bar ate most of it, but still got both drivers side doors a little. I call my insurance (nationwide) and they have shops that warranty the work for life, so I go with one of them (last time I didn't withe the wife's car and the shop that used to be great did a poor job). Fast forward to picking it up today and there's probably more damage to the truck now than the deer did. Interior drivers door, they apparently couldn't figure out how to get it off and tried to pry the piece around the windows and locks, dinged it all up. Swirl marks in the paint and dirt under the new paint. The rear drivers door molding is all scratched up. They promised to fix everything and pay for a rental, but I'm still pretty butt hurt about it. The name of the place is quality collision of montoursville pa, at this point I would never recommend. I'm done venting, but I just had to get it out.
Deer damage
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Joined
·
1,458 Posts
Sm, sorry to hear that man.
I actually had one so bad from a known good shop who also was a buddy that I had to get rid of the car as soon as I got it back... wow...
I actually had one so bad from a known good shop who also was a buddy that I had to get rid of the car as soon as I got it back... wow...
Yes I did do both of those things. Here's a couple pics. I don't know that the swirl marks will show, but you can see the molding and inside the door that were both in mint condition before going to the shop. The truck only has 16k on it.
Attachments
No, it didn't kill the deer. Only hit one of like ten that busted into the road all at once, so could have been way worse. We call that speed beef around here, if it would've been laying there it would've ended up in the freezer.
Joined
·
94,222 Posts
That is some sloppy work..... What did your insurance company have to say?
I carry a super sharp knife and hatchet for just that reason. The hatchet is because I watched my buddy learn a hard lesson trying to slit ones throat, broke his wrist getting kicked. The 9mm is too loud, but one Crack with that hatchet they calm right down.
I talked to the guy that certifies the garages, he said give them the opportunity to fix it. If for some reason I'm not completely satisfied with the results he would make sure it was done correctly there or another shop if need be.
Joined
·
460 Posts
The worst part... you probably had to show them what they did to your truck... or they woulda just let you go right?
I just went through this with my kids car, a 12 Mazda 3... hit a deer...Took it to a shop the insurance co recommended.
They ran the paint on the front edge of the hood so bad that about 6" of the edge foamed up with little bubbles in it, they sanded through the color coat and oe primer in the back corner/edge of the hood about 1/8" x 2", then cleared over the bare metal spot anyway, left the headlamp/signal assembly sticking out so far in the back corner that you could fit a Bic pen under it, and when I showed the owner he acted surprised, then said "well its a real long hood, those are tough", and that "headlamps like these are hard to fit perfect", I said well it was almost $6000, you took the job, then got paid what you asked for... it needs to be right... so he said he'd fix it... said it'd be easier if I'd let the paint cure first... so I said ok wed wait, then some idiot in a Wagoneer on her cell phone totaled the car from behind a month later... so never got it fixed.
Now...
A slate roof tile from the roof of one of the schools I work at fell 30 feet and damn near punctured the hood of my Titan 2 weeks ago... I was dreading the body shop experience...
...and you aren't makin' me feel any better...
Good luck with yours!
I just went through this with my kids car, a 12 Mazda 3... hit a deer...Took it to a shop the insurance co recommended.
They ran the paint on the front edge of the hood so bad that about 6" of the edge foamed up with little bubbles in it, they sanded through the color coat and oe primer in the back corner/edge of the hood about 1/8" x 2", then cleared over the bare metal spot anyway, left the headlamp/signal assembly sticking out so far in the back corner that you could fit a Bic pen under it, and when I showed the owner he acted surprised, then said "well its a real long hood, those are tough", and that "headlamps like these are hard to fit perfect", I said well it was almost $6000, you took the job, then got paid what you asked for... it needs to be right... so he said he'd fix it... said it'd be easier if I'd let the paint cure first... so I said ok wed wait, then some idiot in a Wagoneer on her cell phone totaled the car from behind a month later... so never got it fixed.
Now...
A slate roof tile from the roof of one of the schools I work at fell 30 feet and damn near punctured the hood of my Titan 2 weeks ago... I was dreading the body shop experience...
...and you aren't makin' me feel any better...
Good luck with yours!
Joined
·
1,458 Posts
to bad you weren`t closer and your rig was red, I have one sitting right here on the table in the shop...Now...
A slate roof tile from the roof of one of the schools I work at fell 30 feet and damn near punctured the hood of my Titan 2 weeks ago... I was dreading the body shop experience...
...and you aren't makin' me feel any better...
Good luck with yours!
Joined
·
1,458 Posts
Most of the really good shops will guarantee their work for as long as you own the vehicle, independent of the insurance company's 'promise'. If you change insurer's while still owning the vehicle...there is no longer a warranty from the first company.
Here's my wisdom on the subject...insurance companies can not dictate who you take your collision work to...it's your call and the three quotes based on in person meetings is still the best way to decide as long as the vehicle can still be driven. You can ask important questions and look over the operation to see if it meets your approval. Always take photos of the entire vehicle inside and out before it goes to the shop. Have a discussion with the person doing the estimate regarding how parts are sourced.
Most insurance jobs today are set up with repair facilities, not body shops! There is a difference of distinction....a repair facility replaces damaged body panels and parts. A body shop fixes them with hammer and dolley using body repair techniques that are 100 years in the making. OEM is maintained, not replaced. Make it clear if a repair facility is used.... that you want new OEM if available, used OEM as a second choice and aftermarket as a last effort. Your insurance companies usually specify aftermarket from specific resources (cheap and cheaper) which are not usually identical to OEM. (I've put a micrometer to body panels and proven this point!) If the work done is not satisfactory when you arrive to get the vehicle, don't accept it and do not sign anything....make your first call to the insurance company and demand that they deal directly with the shop.....even if it's not their 'recommended' shop.....it's their money, not yours at this point. They must do this unless your state has some weird legal prohibition, but I doubt that.
And remember....you have 'before' pictures to compare to their after. In my case, that one thing got me a complete Corvette repaint done by another shop of my choosing because of what the recommended shop tried to deliver.
Here's my wisdom on the subject...insurance companies can not dictate who you take your collision work to...it's your call and the three quotes based on in person meetings is still the best way to decide as long as the vehicle can still be driven. You can ask important questions and look over the operation to see if it meets your approval. Always take photos of the entire vehicle inside and out before it goes to the shop. Have a discussion with the person doing the estimate regarding how parts are sourced.
Most insurance jobs today are set up with repair facilities, not body shops! There is a difference of distinction....a repair facility replaces damaged body panels and parts. A body shop fixes them with hammer and dolley using body repair techniques that are 100 years in the making. OEM is maintained, not replaced. Make it clear if a repair facility is used.... that you want new OEM if available, used OEM as a second choice and aftermarket as a last effort. Your insurance companies usually specify aftermarket from specific resources (cheap and cheaper) which are not usually identical to OEM. (I've put a micrometer to body panels and proven this point!) If the work done is not satisfactory when you arrive to get the vehicle, don't accept it and do not sign anything....make your first call to the insurance company and demand that they deal directly with the shop.....even if it's not their 'recommended' shop.....it's their money, not yours at this point. They must do this unless your state has some weird legal prohibition, but I doubt that.
And remember....you have 'before' pictures to compare to their after. In my case, that one thing got me a complete Corvette repaint done by another shop of my choosing because of what the recommended shop tried to deliver.
Two more items I thought of; rather than add to the previous post, I'll add them here: Good shops do a walk around with you when your vehicle is delivered and they note on a condition report all the areas of your car that have dings, scratches...whatever....and then it's presented to you for signature before work starts. This is a good thing.
The auto manufacturers have relationships with body shops that are based on certifications attained. Usually you'll see evidence of these certification relationships with some prominent plaques on the wall indicating them. In addition to training of personnel on vehicle specific body repair techniques and tools, they guarantee that any repairs done to their brand of vehicle, regardless of an insurance companies dictate, will be done with OEM replacements and not aftermarket. This protects the integrity of their brand as well as the customer's investment in one of their vehicles come trade in or resale time since collision repair is 'in the system'. This is a major good thing.
The auto manufacturers have relationships with body shops that are based on certifications attained. Usually you'll see evidence of these certification relationships with some prominent plaques on the wall indicating them. In addition to training of personnel on vehicle specific body repair techniques and tools, they guarantee that any repairs done to their brand of vehicle, regardless of an insurance companies dictate, will be done with OEM replacements and not aftermarket. This protects the integrity of their brand as well as the customer's investment in one of their vehicles come trade in or resale time since collision repair is 'in the system'. This is a major good thing.
Well I went pick it up after dropping it off again Tuesday. Swirl marks all over the door and refused to take it until it was fixed. An hour later I went to pick it up and there are still imperfections in the paint. I told the manager to give me the keys, they were not to touch it again. I got it home and realized there is a gap on the door molding big enough to stick a credit card in, there isn't even any 2 sided tape there water will get in easy. I'm waiting to hear from the insurance company now as I will no longer be dealing with this business. They had to replace the entire interior of the door because of damage they did he said that was $500. At least I can take solace in the fact they probably lost money working on my truck.
Joined
·
506 Posts
ok, so here is what you do.
you have to give them 3 chances to fix it.
If they refuse at any time, then it is a breach of contract and your insurance company is powerless at that point. You take it to another respected shop get an estimate, call your carrier give them the option to pay or make it right . They must decide at that point. If they run you around, by law you are allowed to pay for the repairs and make sure the body shop that does them can verify that damage was done at the other shop. that in hand, call the carrier again and inform them of your documented damage. They will pay then, slow to send check but will pay. If not, then you can escalate the claim to Barry J. Nalebuff . Board of directors in Nationwide. He will have to settle suit as to not have a small claims court appearance as a rep of the company.
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
