I really need an answer on what tool is needed to loosen the bearing adjusters on rear differential. New carrier waiting to go in but can't get the adjusters loose. Does anyone know if the dodge tool will work or not. (C-4164a ) I've seen the pic of the one on this site but no make or part number.
Differential side bearing adjusters
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The 2007 service manual (section RFD) specifies a C-4164 tool for removing and installing the side bearing adjuster. (I don't know if that is exactly the same as the C4164a). What year is your truck?
FWIW, I looked first in the 2014 service manual (my Pro4X is a '14), and there is not much there - just axle or complete rear axle assembly removal - in section RAX, and no section RFD to be found. Fortunately the older manuals have more in-depth info on carrier removal and set-up procedures. Not sure when that changed.
If you need to access the service manual, go to the NICOclub website, join, and you can access the year-specific service manual for your truck.
Good luck!
FWIW, I looked first in the 2014 service manual (my Pro4X is a '14), and there is not much there - just axle or complete rear axle assembly removal - in section RAX, and no section RFD to be found. Fortunately the older manuals have more in-depth info on carrier removal and set-up procedures. Not sure when that changed.
If you need to access the service manual, go to the NICOclub website, join, and you can access the year-specific service manual for your truck.
Good luck!
2004 big tow 4x4 off road . Yes that's the same part also goes by part # C-4164 6602. Only 62000 miles on , the last 8000 as been a pain . Ball joint ,brakes rotors twice exhaust, power steering lines and brake lines rotted out along with miscellaneous other crap. As soon as this fixed it's gone. I'm done with it.
Oh and thanks that's the only answer I've gotten. After 8 calls all over the country. All I can do try it this point only other option than is punch and hammer. From I understand from a call I made was don't damage the side adjuster because you can't buy them and your screwed. If that happens you have to get all expensive whole axle.
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When you loosen the carrier pinion caps (which you must to adjust). You can push them with just a flathead, I promise!
And you can tap the adjusters with a hammer on the end of the flathead to get tension. But if you are just trying your first carrier swap, you will get into trouble as you do not know what right feels like yet.
And you can tap the adjusters with a hammer on the end of the flathead to get tension. But if you are just trying your first carrier swap, you will get into trouble as you do not know what right feels like yet.
Not my first swap,just my first with type carrier. As for loosening the caps and tapping that was no go. These things can be cranked down really tight to get proper backlash. Mine was 8 thousandth checked before I started. Specs 8 to13
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If you overtighten the adjusters to carrier on a Tru Trac, it unloads, over time the hex bolts that hold it together on the left side installed which in turn breaks stuff about 20-25k.
I Have 32k on mine since I installed it with no problems in the carrier. They are not meant to have substantial torque down on the carrier. Just enough to not have horizontal play and mabye 20 deg inward after that before torquing the caps back down.
Just my experience with the Tru trac.
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You only need all that preload for new bearings. It is good, however, to have a very small amount of preload on used bearings.
If you are simply making a backlash adjustment you can do so without loosening the caps. All it takes is a 5/16" socket, hammer, suitable punch, and common sense.
If you are simply making a backlash adjustment you can do so without loosening the caps. All it takes is a 5/16" socket, hammer, suitable punch, and common sense.
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