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Ok, here's a write up on my free mods. The airbox mod and the rear cat mod.
Airbox mod
Tools needed: Regular curved jaw vice grips, 10mm 3/8 drive socket/ratchet, 6" long extension, flathead screwdriver or something along the likes to etch a line.
First, unplug the MAF connector and position out of the way. Next, loosen the hose clamp around the throttle body. Take off the hoses to the breather box on the intake hose. Next, unclasp the airbox and set the whole assembly aside. Pull your air filter out and you will see where the tube comes into the factory box down towards the bottom. It is very close to the bottom of the airbox as you will see. There are 2 bolts that secure the airbox that you need to worry about. One is right behind the airbox off to the drivers side fender. The other is inside the airbox assembly. Loosen those and make a mark where the tube comes into the airbox assembly. Gently pry the airbox assembly out of the truck. You will need to pry the cold air tube from the side of the airbox assembly to make it shorter. After you get the cold air tube out, use the vise grips to take a bite and give it a sharp pull and a piece will break off fairly cleanly. It doesn't require much effort as the plastic is pretty brittle. As you make your breaks, you will see the pattern of how the plastic breaks. Just keep at it going around the tube until you get to your mark. You can use a file, sand paper or whatever else you want to smooth it down but I just put it back in there. The important thing is to make sure there is no pieces left loose. Put the shortened tube back into the airbox and you will see that it should sit flush inside the airbox where it used to protrude from. Reassemble everything the reverse of how you took it apart.
Secondary cats
Tools needed: Large adjustable wrench, 14mm socket, 3/8 drive ratchet, 14mm combination wrench, 3 or 5lb hammer, WD40, (never seize is optional) patience..........
First, spray the exhaust hangers with WD40. Then spray the cat flange nuts with the WD40. Let it sit for about 15-20min. After you let it sit, you will need to get under the truck and go loosen the O2 sensors. Use the large adj. wrench and get it really tight around the nut part. After you do, take the hammer and give the bottom of the wrench a couple of good sharp whacks and it should loosen right up. Unscrew them all the way out and set them aside to where you won't hit the tips. Next you want to use the same method with the 14mm combo wrench on the front and rear cat flange nuts to loosen them with the hammer. After they are loosened, use the ratchet to speed in taking them off. Set them aside somewhere where you won't lose them. Now comes the fun part........(remember patience). You need to push or scoot the exhaust system rearward just enough to where it clears the studs to which it was attached. 1" will suffice. Remove the gaskets noting the direction they were put on so you can put them back the same way. Now remove the front flange nuts and set them aside. Wiggle the B-pipe assembly out from under the truck and set aside. Do NOT mix them up!! Keep them separated on either side. Take your freshly removed B-pipe assembly and go outside. You will be using the same hammer as before and a large flathead screwdriver or prybar of sorts. Drive the tool down into the middle from the rear and just have at it. The cat material is surrounded by some kind of heat resistant fibrous wrap. Knock out all the chunks/pieces and make sure you have everything off of the walls inside. If anything lingers, just take your tool and scrape the insides until it's clear. After you get everything out, set it back down under the truck from where it came from. Reattach them to their respective primary cats. Slip on your metal gaskets, start the front nuts and wrestle the exhaust system back onto the rear studs. After you get it on at least half the studs, you can start the back nuts. Tighten the front nuts first, then the back ones. It doesn't have to be superman tight but pretty snug would help. I recommend using never seize on the O2 sensor threads before you put them back in. To put them in, twist them counter clockwise until you have enough wire twisted to get them back in with it not twisted. Now you gotta clean up the mess you made from the cat material.......lol. Fire it up and check for any leaks from improperly tightened nuts.
Airbox mod
Tools needed: Regular curved jaw vice grips, 10mm 3/8 drive socket/ratchet, 6" long extension, flathead screwdriver or something along the likes to etch a line.
First, unplug the MAF connector and position out of the way. Next, loosen the hose clamp around the throttle body. Take off the hoses to the breather box on the intake hose. Next, unclasp the airbox and set the whole assembly aside. Pull your air filter out and you will see where the tube comes into the factory box down towards the bottom. It is very close to the bottom of the airbox as you will see. There are 2 bolts that secure the airbox that you need to worry about. One is right behind the airbox off to the drivers side fender. The other is inside the airbox assembly. Loosen those and make a mark where the tube comes into the airbox assembly. Gently pry the airbox assembly out of the truck. You will need to pry the cold air tube from the side of the airbox assembly to make it shorter. After you get the cold air tube out, use the vise grips to take a bite and give it a sharp pull and a piece will break off fairly cleanly. It doesn't require much effort as the plastic is pretty brittle. As you make your breaks, you will see the pattern of how the plastic breaks. Just keep at it going around the tube until you get to your mark. You can use a file, sand paper or whatever else you want to smooth it down but I just put it back in there. The important thing is to make sure there is no pieces left loose. Put the shortened tube back into the airbox and you will see that it should sit flush inside the airbox where it used to protrude from. Reassemble everything the reverse of how you took it apart.
Secondary cats
Tools needed: Large adjustable wrench, 14mm socket, 3/8 drive ratchet, 14mm combination wrench, 3 or 5lb hammer, WD40, (never seize is optional) patience..........
First, spray the exhaust hangers with WD40. Then spray the cat flange nuts with the WD40. Let it sit for about 15-20min. After you let it sit, you will need to get under the truck and go loosen the O2 sensors. Use the large adj. wrench and get it really tight around the nut part. After you do, take the hammer and give the bottom of the wrench a couple of good sharp whacks and it should loosen right up. Unscrew them all the way out and set them aside to where you won't hit the tips. Next you want to use the same method with the 14mm combo wrench on the front and rear cat flange nuts to loosen them with the hammer. After they are loosened, use the ratchet to speed in taking them off. Set them aside somewhere where you won't lose them. Now comes the fun part........(remember patience). You need to push or scoot the exhaust system rearward just enough to where it clears the studs to which it was attached. 1" will suffice. Remove the gaskets noting the direction they were put on so you can put them back the same way. Now remove the front flange nuts and set them aside. Wiggle the B-pipe assembly out from under the truck and set aside. Do NOT mix them up!! Keep them separated on either side. Take your freshly removed B-pipe assembly and go outside. You will be using the same hammer as before and a large flathead screwdriver or prybar of sorts. Drive the tool down into the middle from the rear and just have at it. The cat material is surrounded by some kind of heat resistant fibrous wrap. Knock out all the chunks/pieces and make sure you have everything off of the walls inside. If anything lingers, just take your tool and scrape the insides until it's clear. After you get everything out, set it back down under the truck from where it came from. Reattach them to their respective primary cats. Slip on your metal gaskets, start the front nuts and wrestle the exhaust system back onto the rear studs. After you get it on at least half the studs, you can start the back nuts. Tighten the front nuts first, then the back ones. It doesn't have to be superman tight but pretty snug would help. I recommend using never seize on the O2 sensor threads before you put them back in. To put them in, twist them counter clockwise until you have enough wire twisted to get them back in with it not twisted. Now you gotta clean up the mess you made from the cat material.......lol. Fire it up and check for any leaks from improperly tightened nuts.
not to mention over 15k worth of snap-on tools I have.
