DIY - Front Transfer Case Seal Replacement

52925 Views 36 Replies 20 Participants Last post by Constable, Jun 24, 2020

AcidJake75

Discussion Starter · Apr 12, 2012

Hopefully this will save some people some $$...If you have a factory service manual - its a HUGE help to ALWAYS have one..

I noticed a leak the other day after a few good runs with the truck (offroading)... I went ahead and ordered the seal and decided to handle up on Tranny fluid along w/xfer case fluid...

The seal part # 33216-A60001 = $5.44
Fluid - 7 up 11 bucks per qt (just depends where you get it from)
Different shops quotes - $200-400 bucks! :huh:

Already started - the 4 nut and bolt combos are 14mm and are easy to break loose..

You can clearly see the fluid and where its coming from (also the top of the xfer case was clean and dry)

I used an Impact to break the 30mm bolt loose. I used 1 14mm nut and bolt combo and open ended wrench to hold flange in place..

I used a 3 prong puller once the nut is off

Other view of the puller getting flange out..

I got the old seal out with a beefy flat head screwdriver and "umph" and it came right out. I put in the new one tapping around the seal w/a small deadblow hammer for an nice even fit.. I then used the impact to tighten flange back on. Its freakin 200 ft lbs so if you have a big enough impact - have at it. Nissan also suggests you replace self locking nut - I did not do that.

So you can see the assembly and the torque specs..Notice the 203? so you better have a good impact or BIG torque wrench..

Go test it out and have a little fun..

Fluids used was OEM NISSAN MATIC D - 2 qts..

Job time - about an hour

$$$$$ saved = a LOT

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Reactions: 5

1 - 20 of 37 Posts

Frank N

· #2 · Apr 12, 2012

Nice!

You should stop by and say hello!

Reactions: 1

AcidJake75

Discussion Starter · #3 · Apr 12, 2012

Also if anyone is in the DFW area and needs help with something like this - bring some beer over and we can knock it out..

BlueBOB

· #4 · Apr 12, 2012

nice write up sir.... love the service manual pics haha

08pro4x2486

· #5 · Apr 12, 2012

I just did this about a month ago. I got it apart and realized the dealership ordered me the wrong seal so I had to wait until the next morning to find a dealership who's parts department was open on Sunday. There was only one in the entire Phoenix area, and as luck would have it that was their last Sunday being open and they had one last seal.

tcoche

· #6 · Jun 25, 2012 (Edited)

Looks like I have the same leak, although I cant tell if it is the seal or those clips. The oil looks like to be dripping down off those clip wires. I did buy a gear puller today. So, I guess I'll try changing that seal first and see if I get anymore leaks. But, the oil also appears to be spitting up on the underside of the T's body. When I look around I do see oil splatter in various places. Maybe both the seal and those clips are bad, we'll see.

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2

2004 KC 4x4 Offroad 3.36 gears

Current Mods-

Suspension: RC 6'' lift, PRG UCA's (custom powder coated, maroon), PRG offroad traction bars, PRG driveshaft spacer, bilstein 5100's (lowest setting)
Performance: Uprev Tuner, 4'' Airaid MXP CAI, NismO low temp (62*C) thermostat, saikou michi oil catch can, goodyear gatorback belt, PML diff cover (color matched), rear axle vent mod, gutted b-pipe cats, flowmaster Y pipe, flowmaster 40 series muffler (dumped before rear axle)
Exterior: 35x12.5x17'' maxxis bighorns, royalty core grille, 1.75'' Bora wheel adapters, headlight mod, westin bullbar, KC driving slimlites, smoked clearance lights, bedlined wheels, mirror caps, rear bumper, front bumper and westin step bars, color matched locking fiberglass tonneau cover, tinted tail lights and 3rd brake light, 20% tint and limo tint eyebrow
Interior: WeatherTech digitalfit floorliners, custom radio bezel kit

tcoche

· #7 · Jun 25, 2012

Looks like Nissan may have changed the part# for the front transfer case seal. I went to the dealer this morning and they said part# 33216-A60001 doesnt exist. So here is the new one...33216-7S110

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2004 KC 4x4 Offroad 3.36 gears

Current Mods-

Suspension: RC 6'' lift, PRG UCA's (custom powder coated, maroon), PRG offroad traction bars, PRG driveshaft spacer, bilstein 5100's (lowest setting)
Performance: Uprev Tuner, 4'' Airaid MXP CAI, NismO low temp (62*C) thermostat, saikou michi oil catch can, goodyear gatorback belt, PML diff cover (color matched), rear axle vent mod, gutted b-pipe cats, flowmaster Y pipe, flowmaster 40 series muffler (dumped before rear axle)
Exterior: 35x12.5x17'' maxxis bighorns, royalty core grille, 1.75'' Bora wheel adapters, headlight mod, westin bullbar, KC driving slimlites, smoked clearance lights, bedlined wheels, mirror caps, rear bumper, front bumper and westin step bars, color matched locking fiberglass tonneau cover, tinted tail lights and 3rd brake light, 20% tint and limo tint eyebrow
Interior: WeatherTech digitalfit floorliners, custom radio bezel kit

Reactions: 1

tcoche

· #8 · Jun 30, 2012

I also picked up the 2 4x4 switches. Those I read can also go bad and leak. So I said what the hell might as well fix both while under there. Here are the part numbers for these switches....

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See less See more

2004 KC 4x4 Offroad 3.36 gears

Current Mods-

Suspension: RC 6'' lift, PRG UCA's (custom powder coated, maroon), PRG offroad traction bars, PRG driveshaft spacer, bilstein 5100's (lowest setting)
Performance: Uprev Tuner, 4'' Airaid MXP CAI, NismO low temp (62*C) thermostat, saikou michi oil catch can, goodyear gatorback belt, PML diff cover (color matched), rear axle vent mod, gutted b-pipe cats, flowmaster Y pipe, flowmaster 40 series muffler (dumped before rear axle)
Exterior: 35x12.5x17'' maxxis bighorns, royalty core grille, 1.75'' Bora wheel adapters, headlight mod, westin bullbar, KC driving slimlites, smoked clearance lights, bedlined wheels, mirror caps, rear bumper, front bumper and westin step bars, color matched locking fiberglass tonneau cover, tinted tail lights and 3rd brake light, 20% tint and limo tint eyebrow
Interior: WeatherTech digitalfit floorliners, custom radio bezel kit

Cowboy

· #9 · Feb 27, 2013

Reviving an old thread here. I'm going to dive into this job this weekend. Weather looks good and the wife has plans so I'll have some free time.
Would it be a bad idea to remove the flange nut without bracing the flange? Also, can I do the same when putting the nut back on and torquing it down?

StormTroopin

· #10 · Feb 27, 2013

Subbed for a summer project

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slagdemon

· #11 · Mar 17, 2013

Looks pretty simple. I, too, need to do this but with it being only 40 degrees today with a stiff wind, I will relegate it to another weekend.

Cowboy

· #12 · Mar 18, 2013

Mine still leaked after I replaced the front seal. I found the problem after I replaced the ujoints in my front drive shaft. They were both shot. From what I can guess, the bad u joints were creating just enough of a shake to cause the front flange shaft to "wobble" in the seal which allowed T-case fluid to leak out while I was driving. This made sense since I never noticed a leak when the truck would be sitting. At any rate, the leak seems to be fixed now and the truck drives better now.

Viperffx

· #13 · Mar 23, 2013

I just found that I have this issue. My u-joint is pretty much gone which is probably what caused it. My question is did you have to replace the self-locking nut? If so where can I find one?

Cowboy

· #14 · Mar 25, 2013

I didn't replace the self locking nut. I called my local dealer to check availability on that nut and they didn't have it. They told me they never replace them when replacing the front seal and, because of that, they don't stock them. Good luck getting that nut torqued to 200 ft. lbs though. I used a cheater bar and an open end wrench to keep the flange from moving while I put my 1/2 inch torque wrench with 30mm socket on the self locking nut. I bent the open end wrench before I made it to 200 ft. lbs. So, I used my impact to tighten the nut down. Hated doing it that way but it was the only option I had; I was not comfortable engaging the transfer case to hold the flange in place while I torqued on that nut by hand.

KWAZ!

· #15 · Jul 2, 2014

The "companion flange" where the seal goes on has a grove, so the seal will fail again. Is there anywhere I can get a sleeve for that or do I have to chalk up $88. For a new companion flange?

KWAZ!

· #16 · Jul 3, 2014

Anyone heard of such a thing?
You can in the picture above. The companion flange is number 7 and the seal is 8.
Mine is warn down and has a groove now. I need a new one but someone tild me they might have a sleeve?

redlion

· #17 · Mar 30, 2015

06 KC 4x4 No Fear from dealership...hoping my problem is as simple as this...I have a "double" shaft -looks like 2 shafts connected by a fitting- I'm not sure if yours are the same... a few months ago after a trip to the dunes I had to replace all u-joints and trany mount. I recently had to go down there and re tighten my trany mount because I had what appeared to be a front suspension clunk on accelerated turns... while I was down there I discovered significant play in my transfer case seal and my shaft was flexing with a click in the fitting that connected my combination shaft... thoughts? New shaft and seal? Or bigger issue inside?

toufue_yang17

· #18 · Mar 30, 2015

redlion said:
06 KC 4x4 No Fear from dealership...hoping my problem is as simple as this...I have a "double" shaft -looks like 2 shafts connected by a fitting- I'm not sure if yours are the same... a few months ago after a trip to the dunes I had to replace all u-joints and trany mount. I recently had to go down there and re tighten my trany mount because I had what appeared to be a front suspension clunk on accelerated turns... while I was down there I discovered significant play in my transfer case seal and my shaft was flexing with a click in the fitting that connected my combination shaft... thoughts? New shaft and seal? Or bigger issue inside?

Not sure what you're talking about 2 shafts and a fitting. It should just be a single drive shaft with a slip yoke. You probably dont have any grease in the slip yoke. Throw some in there and see if it still has that flex with a click. If it doesnt tighten up with grease, you need a new slip yoke and stub. For the play in the seal, is the seal leaking?

redlion

· #19 · Mar 30, 2015

Yea it's the slip yoke. .wasn't sure what it was called... the bearing is not leaking at this point... should I pay attention to it at this point

toufue_yang17

· #20 · Mar 31, 2015

redlion said:
Yea it's the slip yoke. .wasn't sure what it was called... the bearing is not leaking at this point... should I pay attention to it at this point

When you put grease in it, make sure you line it up back the same way. Being out of phase will throw off the balance so mark it before you pull it. If the front output shaft on the transfer case has play, that bearing is shot. It should be nice and tight when you move the yoke.

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