Nice!

You should stop by and say hello!

 

Also if anyone is in the DFW area and needs help with something like this - bring some beer over and we can knock it out..

 

nice write up sir.... love the service manual pics haha

 

I just did this about a month ago. I got it apart and realized the dealership ordered me the wrong seal so I had to wait until the next morning to find a dealership who's parts department was open on Sunday. There was only one in the entire Phoenix area, and as luck would have it that was their last Sunday being open and they had one last seal.

 

Looks like I have the same leak, although I cant tell if it is the seal or those clips. The oil looks like to be dripping down off those clip wires. I did buy a gear puller today. So, I guess I'll try changing that seal first and see if I get anymore leaks. But, the oil also appears to be spitting up on the underside of the T's body. When I look around I do see oil splatter in various places. Maybe both the seal and those clips are bad, we'll see.

Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

 

Looks like Nissan may have changed the part# for the front transfer case seal. I went to the dealer this morning and they said part# 33216-A60001 doesnt exist. So here is the new one...33216-7S110

Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

 

I also picked up the 2 4x4 switches. Those I read can also go bad and leak. So I said what the hell might as well fix both while under there. Here are the part numbers for these switches....

Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

 

Reviving an old thread here. I'm going to dive into this job this weekend. Weather looks good and the wife has plans so I'll have some free time.
Would it be a bad idea to remove the flange nut without bracing the flange? Also, can I do the same when putting the nut back on and torquing it down?

 

Subbed for a summer project


Sent from AutoGuide.com App

 

Looks pretty simple. I, too, need to do this but with it being only 40 degrees today with a stiff wind, I will relegate it to another weekend.

 

Mine still leaked after I replaced the front seal. I found the problem after I replaced the ujoints in my front drive shaft. They were both shot. From what I can guess, the bad u joints were creating just enough of a shake to cause the front flange shaft to "wobble" in the seal which allowed T-case fluid to leak out while I was driving. This made sense since I never noticed a leak when the truck would be sitting. At any rate, the leak seems to be fixed now and the truck drives better now.

 

I just found that I have this issue. My u-joint is pretty much gone which is probably what caused it. My question is did you have to replace the self-locking nut? If so where can I find one?

 

I didn't replace the self locking nut. I called my local dealer to check availability on that nut and they didn't have it. They told me they never replace them when replacing the front seal and, because of that, they don't stock them. Good luck getting that nut torqued to 200 ft. lbs though. I used a cheater bar and an open end wrench to keep the flange from moving while I put my 1/2 inch torque wrench with 30mm socket on the self locking nut. I bent the open end wrench before I made it to 200 ft. lbs. So, I used my impact to tighten the nut down. Hated doing it that way but it was the only option I had; I was not comfortable engaging the transfer case to hold the flange in place while I torqued on that nut by hand.

 

The "companion flange" where the seal goes on has a grove, so the seal will fail again. Is there anywhere I can get a sleeve for that or do I have to chalk up $88. For a new companion flange?

 

Anyone heard of such a thing?
You can in the picture above. The companion flange is number 7 and the seal is 8.
Mine is warn down and has a groove now. I need a new one but someone tild me they might have a sleeve?

 

06 KC 4x4 No Fear from dealership...hoping my problem is as simple as this...I have a "double" shaft -looks like 2 shafts connected by a fitting- I'm not sure if yours are the same... a few months ago after a trip to the dunes I had to replace all u-joints and trany mount. I recently had to go down there and re tighten my trany mount because I had what appeared to be a front suspension clunk on accelerated turns... while I was down there I discovered significant play in my transfer case seal and my shaft was flexing with a click in the fitting that connected my combination shaft... thoughts? New shaft and seal? Or bigger issue inside?

 

Not sure what you're talking about 2 shafts and a fitting. It should just be a single drive shaft with a slip yoke. You probably dont have any grease in the slip yoke. Throw some in there and see if it still has that flex with a click. If it doesnt tighten up with grease, you need a new slip yoke and stub. For the play in the seal, is the seal leaking?

 

Yea it's the slip yoke. .wasn't sure what it was called... the bearing is not leaking at this point... should I pay attention to it at this point

 

When you put grease in it, make sure you line it up back the same way. Being out of phase will throw off the balance so mark it before you pull it. If the front output shaft on the transfer case has play, that bearing is shot. It should be nice and tight when you move the yoke.

 

Can the bearing be replaced or will I be dumpster diving for a new transfer case?

 

I have not disassembled a Nissan Titan transfer case yet. But from the looks of the diagram, yes. You will have to pull out the t-case and rip it apart.

 

Thanks. . I've called a few transmission shops here in phx. They are under the impression the electronic shift unit needs to be replaced if I go that route $600 for the rebuilt before I even touch the bearing.. I'm gonna leave it alone since it's not leaking..

 

Man, I may have messed up... I skipped the part about putting a mark on the companion flange and the shaft thread!! My mind is floating around and asking why does that matter? What will happen if not lined up correctly? Vibration?


I have a 2010 Titan Pro 4X.... When I get home I will update my profile and add pics, Im at work now picking up the seal for lunch and changing it this evening. I tore it all apart last night.

 

HOw did it turn out? I did the same thing by not marking. Ended up just guessing and judging by rust mark patterns. No vibrations.


Thanks for the write up!!!!!!

 

This repair really is a cinch, few things I discovered in the process:
- A good 2 jaw puller will work fine.
- Rockauto has the 'repair sleeve' in the parts catalog, though I did not need or price one
- The seal itself from the same source ran me about $3
- getting the old seal out was the most difficult part of the procedure
- According to the 3 dealerships I called, the 14&15 Titans have a mechanical packing type seal that requires replacement of the entire assembly


Good write up and a big help

 

Apparently there are two different oil seal with the same part number 33216-7S11C. It took an official Nissan dealer here 6 weeks to bring the wrong one. They also told other dealers had similar problems with this oil seal. Ended up installing a non-original oil seal. So it makes sense to see a photo of the seal before ordering.

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?res...dir?resid=EA6001F533EF6130!297069&authkey=!AIhLvdjTgMvJspI&v=3&ithint=photo,jpg
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?res...dir?resid=EA6001F533EF6130!297062&authkey=!ALy2B7HmBl_P-Ns&v=3&ithint=photo,jpg

Compare it with the one removed from the car

Apparently there are two different oil seal with the same part number 33216-7S11C. It took an official Nissan dealer here 6 weeks to bring the wrong one. They also told other dealers had similar problems with this oil seal. Ended up installing a non-original oil seal. So it makes sense to see a photo of the seal before ordering.

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?res...dir?resid=EA6001F533EF6130!297069&authkey=!AIhLvdjTgMvJspI&v=3&ithint=photo,jpg
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?res...dir?resid=EA6001F533EF6130!297062&authkey=!ALy2B7HmBl_P-Ns&v=3&ithint=photo,jpg

Compare it with the one removed from the car

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?res...dir?resid=EA6001F533EF6130!297067&authkey=!AKs0X1hhOndxC30&v=3&ithint=photo,jpg

 

That lock nut is giving me a serious issue. Anyone have any tricks for this. I've already tryed the following.


Heating it up
Wd-40
Impact wrench (pos) model
And a breaker bar

 

I used a 24" breaker bar and whacking the end with a 2# drilling hammer to get it to wink, after that, my 476lb/ft impact zipped it off like nothing, where it wouldn't budge it before. I know it's not 'kosher', but also try a cheater bar. Might want to try PB blaster, or something with a catalyst element to help soften the bite on it (let soak for at least an hour). WD is good stuff, but not as aggressive as actual penetrating oil sprays. If you use one of those, make sure you clean it all up (Via brake cleaner or starting fluid) before you install the new seal, as PB and the like will eat rubber/polymer with a quickness.
Another little hack on this, when breaking/torquing the little bolts on the flange, jack up one side on the front so the tire is BARELY off the ground, back up a small breaker bar against a solid surface, and use your free hand to rotate the free tire. That will turn the driveshaft and cause the bolts to break/torque easily. This gives exceptional mechanical advantage and saved me some knuckle-busting in the process.

Unless you plan to give up and take it to a shop, don't be afraid to get a little western with it, once you get in up to your elbows, it's too late. If something else breaks, then it needs replaced too, and that's a seriously beefy nut, I doubt you'll harm it.

Good luck man, if the nut is exceptionally difficult to break free, I'd suggest replacing it. If it came easy, reuse it, but if it's a real *****, get a new one for the install. It is a crush-nut iirc, and the manual recommends it be replaced at any rate. As a rule of thumb (garnered from working on semis for half a decade) if you plan to replace something, be prepared to replace all the mounting hardware as well. Threads can be temperamental.

 

Fluid - 7 up 11 bucks per qt (just depends where you get it from)
Different shops quotes - $200-400 bucks! :huh:

Fluids used was OEM NISSAN MATIC D - 2 qts..

​

If you wanna save a few bucks you can go with Dexron III instead, its the same thing at Nissan Matic D.

 

Fluid - 7 up 11 bucks per qt (just depends where you get it from)
Different shops quotes - $200-400 bucks! <img src="http://www.titantalk.com/forums/images/smilies/huh.gif" border="0" alt="" title="" class="inlineimg" />

Fluids used was OEM NISSAN MATIC D - 2 qts..

​

If you wanna save a few bucks you can go with Dexron III instead, its the same thing at Nissan Matic D.

That's exactly what I used.
Valvoline Dexron III ATF for the Transmission & Transfer Case.
Mobil 1 for the Front Differential.
Royal Purple for the Rear Differential.
They are all three Nissan Matic "*"
(Matic J, Matic D, Matic whatever it is)