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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We have a 2006 Nissan Titan. The car currently has a P0420 and a P0430 code with no driveability issues. I took some readings with the scanner and I'm wondering if anyone here can confirm whether I have a cracked exhaust manifold or bad o2 sensors. All readings took at 2000RPM. The short and long term fuel trim doesn't look out of place but the O2 voltage does.

Thanks in advance.
 

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You could tell if you have a leak with the AFR's. I doubt you have two bad o2 sensors, but you never know. Do you have any indication of exhaust leaks? Ticking, terrible noise, etc?
 

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Vk56 isn't known for reliable exhaust manifolds...Just sayin
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Can't get an AFR off of my Launch either. But here are all the screen grabs at idle.

I can smell the strong exhaust odor. Image 5 shows that the heated O2S2 monitor B1 and B2 as being reported Rich
 

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P0420 and p0430 are catalyst codes. Your cats aren't working properly, or may be gone because your engine has been running rich.
You most likely have bad manifolds.
 
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I keep seeing this cracked manifold problem all over here. I have a 17, you think they fixed that issue? If mine did crack, they'd have to covered under the warranty assuming I still have it, right?
 

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Not sure about the manifold issue, I think they were redesigned, time will tell. Most guys skip oem replacement and just do jba long tubes....Won't have anymore manifold issues after that
 

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I keep seeing this cracked manifold problem all over here. I have a 17, you think they fixed that issue? If mine did crack, they'd have to covered under the warranty assuming I still have it, right?
Oh yeah, same issue with the new ones! The only difference is the newer trucks have a tendency to explode as soon as you hit the start button.....:devil:
 
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Not trying to freak you out, but watch your oil level. When cats break apart they sometimes have tiny fragments that can literally get sucked back into the cylinders.
It's not a guarantee, but has happened to others.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Not trying to freak you out, but watch your oil level. When cats break apart they sometimes have tiny fragments that can literally get sucked back into the cylinders.
It's not a guarantee, but has happened to others.
I just got this car to drive for a little while. From what I've heard of this vehicle, the SES light has been on at around 80k, it's currently at 165k. This thing is beat up and has a host of problems. So far, I've diagnosed:

- TPMS lights on with C1706 and C1724. Whoever did the first tire change probably broke the OEM sensors because it's just a regular rubber valve stem.
- Seatbelt light is on with a B1086.
- All the wires for the rear driver side door harness were severed. The two wires for the belt pretensioner are included in this harness. I spliced them back together but the B1086 code still exists. I checked the TSB for this and the vin is within the range but Nissan says this vehicle not eligible. It's a 2006 Titan King Cab.
- The steering input shaft into the rack & pinion is leaking.
- I'm pretty sure all the fluids on this vehicle are original aside from the motor oil. Planning on doing the tranny and diff fluids soon.
- Parking brake does not engage at all. It clicks but has no resistance and it goes pretty much to the floor.
- Front struts and rear shocks need to be replaced soon.


As someone who enjoys working on cars, I've done the following maintenance:

- Replaced the oil cooler gasket which was causing an oil leak.
- Replaced coolant.
- Replaced the belt tensioner, idler pulley and serpentine belt.
- Replaced the spark plugs with LFR5AIX11. I'm not sure if it has been done before because the ones I pulled out were LFR5AGP.
- Replaced both sides inner and outer tie rods.
- Replaced the power steering high pressure hose.

It's a long list but we tackling it 1 by 1. Here are some pics of what my scanner says about the TPMS
 

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Your little parking brake actuators are probably seized.
As for the tpms, I fixed mine with a small piece of electrical tape!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, I fixed the airbag light today. I took out the center console to get to the airbag control unit. Did the continuity test from the unit to the pretensioner connector and there was no continuity. Disconnected the butt connector, cut a bit more wires off and noticed corrosion. Cut some more off and retested for continuity from the unit to the first break point then from the break to the pretensioner connector. It was all good. Had I saw the corrosion in the first place, it would've saved me a lot of time but at least it was properly diagnosed.

No more annoying airbag light. Oh and I broke the shift cable rubber bushing. Held by zipties for the time being.



 

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When the manifolds crack it causes the truck to run rich which causes the cats to fail. Cajun Stage 1 for the fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
I want to thank Jeff, Joe and Matt. They shipped out my stuff quick. Jeff probably burned the midnight candle to get my done as he shipped out my cats the day before his vacation.

I did the passenger side today. Everything went pretty smooth except for a few cut knuckles and swear words. Those holes on the header are a bit smaller than the oem manifolds, it required some persuasion to get them into the studs. Anyone else had this issue?

As I was down there, I also changed out the upper and lower ball joints and installed both Bilstein 4600 struts.

I'm aiming for the driver side this Sunday. Does anyone know if the engine also need to be raised up to swap the headers? Someone mentioned that if the air box is removed, all the manifold bolts can be reached from above on the driver side. Is this true?
 
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