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I did search, hoping someone can help me out with my door issue.

I was replacing my door locking mechanisms fixing the door handle freezing problem as I live in Alaska. This had to be the most frustrating thing I have done to date. Taking apart the door assembly, locking cables, and door handle was super easy. But trying to get the door handle back together and aligned properly was a nightmare. I finally got it though, hooked up all the cables (or so I thought) and put everything back together to test her out. Shut the door and it didn't latch. Gave it another try and it latched closed. But to my surprise, now I cannot get the door to open from the inside, or outside. I must of forgot to hook up one of the cables correctly due to my frustration!

Is there a way to unlatch the door? Perhaps a coat hangar or something similar to flip the latching mechanism?

Please help!!!!!
 

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Haha.....

I guess that makes 2 of us now. Got the exact same problem at the moment. Hoping it is just frozen, got it inside warming up and hoping it will thaw and release.
 

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I have the same issue right now. Doors are frozen shut completely from the outside for going on 3 weeks now. At first I had the classic issue where it wouldnt' latch shut, so you had to hold shut and lock yourself in and hope it thawed. Eventually after an hour of heat, the outside handles worked so you could let yourself out from the outer handles, but inside never worked. Last week the outside handles stopped working altogether, but thankfully at the same time the inside ones started working, and now it never fails to latch shut. :confused: Seems like the outside handle is what causes it to fail to latch shut, and when that froze completely, the inside ones started working. Now my procedure is roll down the windows with the fob and open from the inside. I am currently trying to convince Nissan to pay for my TSB, but it's not looking too hopeful. It's below zero degrees from november until mid april up here in NB, so something has to be done. I still can't believe this is not a safety recall. I can't even lock my truck without being locked inside for an hour, sometimes the door flies open while driving during the winter, and the outer door handles don't work at all. If the windows freeze shut and I'm not at home to get a bucket of hot water then I am totally screwed. :teeth: They told me that it's not a safety issue to get locked out of your truck. I told them that if you get locked out of your truck and it is -40 degrees, you will freeze to death. If that's not a safety issue then I don't know what is! Come on Nissan.... step up and fix your mistakes!
 

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Mine thawed out yesterday and worked normally, but as soon as it was back out in the cold (-32ºC yesterday) it froze again, although it still worked normally from the inside.

I agree with you on the safety recall, maybe they need a good lawsuit before they start looking after this issue. Pretty disappointing.

I have the same issue right now. Doors are frozen shut completely from the outside for going on 3 weeks now. At first I had the classic issue where it wouldnt' latch shut, so you had to hold shut and lock yourself in and hope it thawed. Eventually after an hour of heat, the outside handles worked so you could let yourself out from the outer handles, but inside never worked. Last week the outside handles stopped working altogether, but thankfully at the same time the inside ones started working, and now it never fails to latch shut. :confused: Seems like the outside handle is what causes it to fail to latch shut, and when that froze completely, the inside ones started working. Now my procedure is roll down the windows with the fob and open from the inside. I am currently trying to convince Nissan to pay for my TSB, but it's not looking too hopeful. It's below zero degrees from november until mid april up here in NB, so something has to be done. I still can't believe this is not a safety recall. I can't even lock my truck without being locked inside for an hour, sometimes the door flies open while driving during the winter, and the outer door handles don't work at all. If the windows freeze shut and I'm not at home to get a bucket of hot water then I am totally screwed. :teeth: They told me that it's not a safety issue to get locked out of your truck. I told them that if you get locked out of your truck and it is -40 degrees, you will freeze to death. If that's not a safety issue then I don't know what is! Come on Nissan.... step up and fix your mistakes!
 

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The new locking mechanism and cable parts cost me around $150. It is super easy fix if you have access to a shop or garage you can use. Took a few hours. I was able to pry the door panel far back enough to stick my hand in and pull the latching cable that I did not hook up properly the first time. From there I reassembled everything and it is now flawless. It is quite funny because my driver-side door was the ONLY door that malfunctioned in cold weather. Now that I have fixed that one door, the other 3 started F*in up!!! I agree, and have sent letters to all of the appropriate safety agencies in regards to making this a RECALL not a TSB. No responses of course...
 

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The new locking mechanism and cable parts cost me around $150. It is super easy fix if you have access to a shop or garage you can use. Took a few hours. I was able to pry the door panel far back enough to stick my hand in and pull the latching cable that I did not hook up properly the first time. From there I reassembled everything and it is now flawless. It is quite funny because my driver-side door was the ONLY door that malfunctioned in cold weather. Now that I have fixed that one door, the other 3 started F*in up!!! I agree, and have sent letters to all of the appropriate safety agencies in regards to making this a RECALL not a TSB. No responses of course...
Well, I have good news and bad news.

The good news is that I managed to fix the door handle without having to spend any cash. Took the door apart and removed the cable that attaches to the door handle.... was able to blow it out with compressed air, then re-lubed it and put everything back together. Been close to 2 weeks now and it has been close to -30ºC and all is good. :)

The bad news is that the passenger side front door is doing it now too! But at least now I know how to fix it, and I will take pics this time as well!
 

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I'm not quite sure if my problem is the same as yours - I'm located in Houston and it's not exactly freezing here in October, mid 80's if we're lucky.

My rear door on my '04 crewcab won't open either from the outside or inside. The electric locks appear to be working, but the door latch has no resistance when you try to open it. Try any of the other 3 doors and you feel resistance after about 25% pullback. Is there a way for me to repair this without having to take it to the dealership?

Parish
 

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I did manage to get the interior door panel popped loose enough to reach my hand in and check the cable linkage on the back of the interior door handle. Everything there checked out alright. I can even hear a clicking noise on the other end of the cable assy. Problem is, I can't see what's going. It's behind some metal sheeting and the outer skin of the door. I'm thinking that the latching mechanism between the door and cable system is somehow broke. I feel no resistance at the exterior door handle other than the springback action.

Any ideas on how I can get to the latch without using a torch?
 

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Sounds like your latch became disconnected. I had that issue when it froze and I reefed on it hard, but it broke off and the same thing you describe happened (no resistance on door latch). The dealers were nice and put it back together for free.
 

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Hate to bump an old thread, but I'm not having any luck finding a solution to this problem.

2011 CC, passenger door won't unlock from inside or with the fob. I get a slight movement when attempting to unlock, but it doesn't disengage the mechanism. I managed to get the panel loose enough to verify that the cables were intact and attached. Removed the locking cable and tugged on it with channel locks, still no luck.

I'm not sure what to try next. Seems like there has to be a way to disengage the lock in order to open the door and replace the actuator assembly, but most threads with the same problem die out before getting to the answer...

Any ideas?

thanks
 

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Ok, I managed to get the door open, panel completely removed, and the actuator replaced.

With the panel partially removed, I could see but not reach the actuator. So, I used a 30" pole (actually a horeshoe stake) and placed it on top of the housing of the actuator. As I tapped on the other end of the stake with a hammer, my helper simultaneously hit the door unlock function of the key fob and attempted to open the door from the outside. So, the sequence was: Hammer-tap tap, fob-click click, pull the handle. The 3rd try, as I moved the stake closer to the latch, the door opened.

The installation was relatively straightforward, except for the attachment of the cable for the door handle release. On my truck anyway, the groove for the ball on the end of that cable faces the latch part of the door (away from me and you have to bring the cable in from behind) and there's not much room to work my hands behind it in order to make the connection. After two hours of trying to get it in place, I used a piece of fine wire to fish the ball into position and was able to slip the cable into the groove.
 

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Driver door won't open. Have inside panel off. Pulled all movable on the latch from itself from inside door, but door won't open. Read to just put a rod in through the inside door and try to bust that off with a hammer in pieces, but not sure that will even work.
 

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I'd make sure it's unlocked before I smashed anything.
 
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