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Discussion Starter #1
2011 Crew Cab. My driver's window quit working. All other windows are fine. I have tried every motor O'Reilly's has in stock and a known good switch in addition to mine. No combination of switches and motors has resulted in a motor that works (disconnected from the regulator). I have tested for voltage at the motor connector and seem to be getting power there, but I'm not sure what I'm looking at.

Anyone have any ideas what to try next? Thanks
 

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Try clipping the wires to the Auto Up/Down sides of the switch. Worked for me. You lose the Auto Up/Down function, but I figure a working window is better than having the stupid thing stuck partway down.

(This is not my solution, but my mechanic's. He's a race mechanic, who specializes in Audis. I continually find nothing truly stumps him.)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I haven't been able to locate a schematic that shows me the function of each of the pins at the connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Update. Following the diagnosis protocol in the manual that I downloaded, the switch is sending the correct voltage to the motor. The next check for harness continuity between the connector at the switch and the motor connector fails. The next check of continuity between the switch terminal and and ground is ok. I'm now at the point where I'm to "repair or replace harness".

Sooooo, I suppose I'm now looking for likely places where I might find a short. I've read of the early problems around the parking brake area, but a cursory inspection of that area looks ok. Any ideas where to start tearing into this?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm not sure, but I have an open wire somewhere. The test was to the cabin side of the connector and showed open. In hindsight, I should have checked the pin side of the connector to determine whether the short was upstream or down from the connector. As it turned out, I traced the wire as far as I could into the harness where it passes thru the door, then picked up at the connector behind the kick panel beneath the parking brake. I ran out of time to check further, so I put everything back together.
 

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Without pulling up a wiring diagram I will not be much help. However I would recommend that you isolate the failure to one harness. By this i mean disconnect each connector in the circuit and check continuity from one connector to the next. You'll be able to significantly limit your search area by finding your open is between two connectors. Once you figure out which harness the failure is in, many times it is easier to remove the harness and just run a new wire.

Sent from my Z812 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes, I agree and thanks for your input. I really should have checked the other side of the connector and I'm kicking myself over it now, though I did visually inspect everything in the door that I could access. I'll open it up again this week and post back.
 
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