Driver's Side Reverse Light Not Working

Check the place where you tapped into the wire - it is likely cut.

My money is on the wiring being cut from the wire-tap.

Nothing wrong with the splice. It is the first thing I checked. There is no power in the factory wire (for the reverse lamp) on the driver's side of the vehicle when the car is in reverse. The passenger side works fine.

Blown fuse?

I had a terrible time with the splices. I finally bailed on using the splices and soldered the connections.

The fuse in the engine compartment for reverse lights is fine. Also the fuse for trailer reverse lights is fine also.

What method was used for the tap? If the 'usual' U-shaped metal guillotine that slices through the insulation to make contact with the center wire, I would remain unconvinced that the tap is OK. In other words, anything less than strip back the insulation, solder the tap wire and wrap with insulating tape would be questionable.

Check all the fuses in the fuse blocks for a blown fuse.

The Splice was done by stripping the wires and soldering them together. Insulated the splice with a heat shrink and then taped it. The splice is not the problem. I was hoping it was the problem, it would have been an easy fix.

OK on the splice. I looked at the wiring diagram for my 2013 and there are at least two 10A fuses indicated for TOW. these should be located in the fuse block in the passenger compartment. Have you checked that location for blown fuses?

You need to get a copy of the Service Manual for your model and locate how the wiring harness for the lights are routed, then inspect the harness at any 'exposed' location for damage.

There are a few sites that have pdf copies of the manual and you can also obtain a copy from Nissan Publications ($20 will allow you 24 hours access to the database which is amply time to download the pdf manual).