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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I’m working on my mother-in-laws 04 Titan. Apparently the head gasket blew and she didn’t know it and kept driving it. All of the coolant drained into the engine and it got so hot that it melted the plug boots and burned the oil. There a metal shavings on top of the pistons and there is zero compression. In other words, the Engine is shot. Her mechanic wants almost 10K to install a used engine. That’s more than it’s worth. I’ve been shopping around and found several used engines with low miles for around 2k. My question is, is there any real difference between an 04 engine and a newer model engine (say 2008) with an A engine code?
Also, any tips or suggestions on this swap would be greatly appreciated.
 

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The 07+ motors have cvtcs. Which I think would cause an issue with wiring. I'd try to stay with an 04-06 motor.
 

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I say grab a manual and start rebuilding it yourself. Then you know the motor is good when you put it back in compared to a used. If you choose to, make sure you take the block and heads to a machine shop to have them hot tank it and what not. Probably not a cheap route to go by rebuilding, since I have found that the Nissan parts are pretty price. So a used might be a cheaper route to go. I just have a problem with used since I don't know how the last person treated it and most of the time there is no warranty on it. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I say grab a manual and start rebuilding it yourself. Then you know the motor is good when you put it back in compared to a used. If you choose to, make sure you take the block and heads to a machine shop to have them hot tank it and what not. Probably not a cheap route to go by rebuilding, since I have found that the Nissan parts are pretty price. So a used might be a cheaper route to go. I just have a problem with used since I don't know how the last person treated it and most of the time there is no warranty on it. Good luck.
I’ve worked on engines all my life so I normally don’t have a problem rebuilding but in this case with it getting hot enough to melt plug boots and burn the oil, I would bet that the block is warped. The used engines that I’ve looked at have a 12 month 12k mile warranty. I think this is probably the best option for her. She only needs the truck another 2 years when she plans to sell her horses and move into a smaller place.
 

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I see. You would be surprised at some of the abuse the blocks can take, heads usually the first to warp. So that's where my worries would be. Working with the cooling system on my 96 LT1 I transplanted in to my 69 GMC, I over heated it several times. Still running strong. That's why I was recommending you get it check out by machine shop to make sure it was good to go for a rebuild. Not sure how these newer engines hold up to the over heating vs warping. The warranty they are offering seems pretty good. And the price isn't bad either I would say. Haven't had the need to research them yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok, got a new engine and I'm working to pull the old one. I have a question. Can the engine be removed without pulling the trans and if so, how do you get to the trans bell housing bolts to remove them? Also, the Haynes manual says the front axle needs to be dropped, is this true? from some of the info I've read on the net, I don't believe so.
 

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ok, got a new engine and I'm working to pull the old one. I have a question. Can the engine be removed without pulling the trans and if so, how do you get to the trans bell housing bolts to remove them? Also, the Haynes manual says the front axle needs to be dropped, is this true? from some of the info I've read on the net, I don't believe so.
Yes, you have to pull the entire front support off, takes about 1.5hrs to do, then you have great access to everything. If it's just a 4x2 then it'll just slide out easily just remember to take the o2 brackets off the sides of the tranny or they'll bind up on the tranny hump near the bulkhead. If it's 4x4 then you'll need to get some help supporting the transfer case to walk it out.
 

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get a 500hp crate motor ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I had to wait for the outside temp to warm up enough to continue on this but I finished it this weekend and just wanted to give a quick rundown on how I did it. It is a 4x4 model but I was able to do it without pulling the trans or front axle. To remove the engine, I took off the grill and headlights but left the bumper attached. I pulled the radiator/condenser support and worked my way back to the engine. After removing the intake manifold, I was able to remove all of bell housing bolts connecting the trans to the engine and the torque converter bolts. I then disconnected the exhaust manifolds from the rest of the exhaust pipes, loosened the manifold to head bolts, and disconnected the wire harness from the engine and unbolted the motor mounts from the frame rails. After that, I connected the chain and hoist a little toward the back so that engine would rock forward and I slowly lifted it up and forward and l jacked up the front of the trans slowly with it. The engine came right out with the loose manifolds attached. Installing the engine was even easier but I started without the exhaust manifolds attached. I kept the front of the trans high until the engine meet up with it and lowered both together enough to get the bell housing bolds started. While the engine was still up, I installed the exhaust manifolds from underneath (had to jack up each side a little for this), and bolted them to the heads. After that, I lowered it the rest of the way. Everything sat right into place. I then tightened up the bell housing bolds, torque converter bolts and put it all back together. Once it was all done and fresh antifreeze, oil, and PS fluid added, it fired right up and ran great. That’s when I discovered the radiator has one hell of a leak. The new one will be here Tuesday and I’ll install it next weekend.
 

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If you want to sell the heads for cheap ill take them don't really care if the cams are bad or not, might be making some camless VK's


Hey guys, I’m working on my mother-in-laws 04 Titan. Apparently the head gasket blew and she didn’t know it and kept driving it. All of the coolant drained into the engine and it got so hot that it melted the plug boots and burned the oil. There a metal shavings on top of the pistons and there is zero compression. In other words, the Engine is shot. Her mechanic wants almost 10K to install a used engine. That’s more than it’s worth. I’ve been shopping around and found several used engines with low miles for around 2k. My question is, is there any real difference between an 04 engine and a newer model engine (say 2008) with an A engine code?
Also, any tips or suggestions on this swap would be greatly appreciated.
 
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