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Nissan shop manual says to remove drive belts, radiator, air intake, front sway bar. No mention of jacking the engine up at all. I assume this means the manifolds are removed out the front rather than down and out the back. Is this how you guys are pulling them out?
 

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Nissan shop manual says to remove drive belts, radiator, air intake, front sway bar. No mention of jacking the engine up at all. I assume this means the manifolds are removed out the front rather than down and out the back. Is this how you guys are pulling them out?



If you're anxious about jacking the engine up....trust me when i say that is the easiest part of the process. I also recently wrote up my experience on this forum.
 

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AFAIK, nobody has done it per the Nissan manual. There was one post that even the Nissan dealer did not do it per the manual. JBA instructions say to jack the engine up.
 

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AFAIK, nobody has done it per the Nissan manual. There was one post that even the Nissan dealer did not do it per the manual. JBA instructions say to jack the engine up.


Yes, i'll 2nd that....i read alot of writeups and went with the majority. I'm not sure how you would drop the manifold off of the studs without raising the engine at least an inch. i tried to slide it off before i raised it and it wasnt happening. Not sure if 4x4 makes any difference, but i dont see how.

The most difficult part is breaking all the manifold bolts loose, it will take various combinations of extensions, swivels, sockets.
 

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can the exhaust manifold cracks be welded and for how long will it last if welded?
I think the answers you'll get are something along the lines of
A. it will last until 1 day after the warranty is over
B. This is a very labor intensive operation. That means it is costly. As long as you're taking the manifolds out for repair you might as well put in something else.
 

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So I have manifold totally loose and the engine jacked up but am unable to slip cracked manifold past studs in Head? Did you remove the studs and if so, what tool is used to remove studs? I am in California and the manifolds prices at the dealer are a complete rippoff. How do I get a low cost replacement manifold that is legal in california?
 

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Dorman sells an OEM-like manifold that should be CARB legal. Just keep your expectations low when it comes to manufacturing quality. The weld were lousy and they didn't do much to help make installation of the nuts easy. I'm not a fan of Dorman but they do have the least expensive solution. LT headers is a far better solution but it's not cheap.

Did you loosen the bolts holding the engine to the engine mounting bracket? Loosen them but do NOT remove them. That will give you an extra 1/2" to 3/4" to raise the engine more. Once the engine is up high enough the old manifolds slip rearward easily. It is surprise how much you can raise the engine. I did not have to remove any of the manifold studs, nor did any of them come out on their own.
 
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Raise the motor up about 1-1.5 inches and the manifold should slide out. Did you remove the heat shields prior? Only Carb legal options I know of which all suck are:

JBA shorty headers with stock oem cats cut off the manifold and welded to the shorties
Magnaflow CARB manifolds
Back to OEM Nissan

Thats it and might get you by for a short while. Replace both manifolds because usually those things fail at the same time or closely. Long tubes are much more reliable and cheaper in the long run if you could get by emissions.
 

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Which used one? Do you have a link? Are they still available? BTW, Neither Dorman or Magnaflo sell CARB manifolds for 2004 Armada. If they did, they no longer do. Anyone have a lead on an exhaust side Mani for 2004?

BTW, Thanks to everyone on this forum, Great Info and support! :)
 

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2004 Armada should be the same as the Titan newer years, up to a point, maybe 2016. I don't know why the Dorman site doesn't include the 2004 Armada in their compatibility list. Still, Dorman says it isn't CARB compliant. It doesn't make any sense why unless they simply haven't pursued the certification.
 

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So I have manifold totally loose and the engine jacked up but am unable to slip cracked manifold past studs in Head? Did you remove the studs and if so, what tool is used to remove studs? I am in California and the manifolds prices at the dealer are a complete rippoff. How do I get a low cost replacement manifold that is legal in california?
You have to tilt the engine by loosening one motor mount at a time, not lifting straight up.
 

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Raise the motor up about 1-1.5 inches and the manifold should slide out. Did you remove the heat shields prior? Only Carb legal options I know of which all suck are:

JBA shorty headers with stock oem cats cut off the manifold and welded to the shorties
Magnaflow CARB manifolds
Back to OEM Nissan

Thats it and might get you by for a short while. Replace both manifolds because usually those things fail at the same time or closely. Long tubes are much more reliable and cheaper in the long run if you could get by emissions.
Wouldnt cats in the B pipes pass emissions?
 

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So I have manifold totally loose and the engine jacked up but am unable to slip cracked manifold past studs in Head? Did you remove the studs and if so, what tool is used to remove studs? I am in California and the manifolds prices at the dealer are a complete rippoff. How do I get a low cost replacement manifold that is legal in california?
I would have sold you mine for like $50 for both plus shipping. they had 86K miles on them and were in perfect condition.

unfortunately, my garage is such a mess and unorganized, i just took them to the scrap yard to get rid of them. I guess I figured demand would be low as most would put aftermarket headers on instead.
 

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You have to tilt the engine by loosening one motor mount at a time, not lifting straight up.
I only removed motor mount bolts on the driver side if my memory is correct. You dont even have to loosen one side at all. I have 2wd
My point was that tilting the engine works better than lifting straight up.
 

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NO NEED TO MESS W/MOTOR MOUNTS BS: Pull fender liners, Heat shields, drivers side remove steering knuckle (DO NOT move steering wheel), then with mix of 1/4. 3/8, and 1/2 sockets with varying depths (regular, mid, deep) remove OEM exhaust nuts 14 mm. Then using E10 star socket remove studs. Unclip O2 sensors. OEM manifold slides out and new manifold (in my case JBA LT's) slide right in. Chase holes for studs in head, clean head surface. Slide in new exhaust manifold, new OEM (recommended) gasket, thread in new or cleaned up studs by hand (doing the TIGHT/TOUGH to reach ones FIRST). Snug up studs, no need to over torque. Start and then torque nuts per manual, using sequence properly. Tips: Use new studs and nuts ( CHEAP, and new nuts are a manual note). Install O2 sensors with anti seize (no need to over tighten). DONE. Ready for B pipes etc.
 
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