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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, there is not much to be said that has not already been brought up multiple times about the two individuals you deal with when getting Headers, Bpipes and a tune through Cajun.

Jeff with Cajun Bpipes is very prompt w/ information whether it is a question about what you should order, what to expect, how to do something or when parts will ship or are in transit. I felt he was above and beyond as far a getting things to me being as I ordered a week before they were put under biblical style rains. I have as of yesterday(3/26) just received the headers and plan to start the install in 2 weeks in hopes that the weather improves a bit as we are still having freezing temps and I will have to leave the garage door open from start to finish and I have many tropical plants I keep indoors during the winter.

Joe has also been equally helpful in giving info and steering me towards the info I need to get a grasp on the whole UpRev, Osiris, Cipher adventure as this will be the first time I have fumbled around w/ anything such as this(My motto: if it ain't carb and points I don't need to touch it).
As I have yet to install the headers, I have only hooked the computer up and played around w/ the whole setup. I figure I'll wait to make the "Earth shattering ka-boom till its all installed" then I'm sure he will probably feel harassed w/ my goofy questions as I can be a bit nervous with something like this.

As far as quality, the Bpipes look professional and well made. The JBA headers are not bad but I expected a bit better finish. I spent about 1 1/2 hours in the shed with files and a dremel cleaning up weld spatter and chamfering the plate to the pipes as they were extremely rough and misshapen. Taking a straight edge to the flanges, where they press against the gasket to the head, they are a bit out (6 thousands) but not enough that they can't be pulled to the heads easily. In the defense of all involved these are the lowest cost long tubes that he offered so a little bit of work to get them to perfection is not out of the question. As far as the welds on the headers they all look good and they seem very solid. When looking inside the pipe where the four pipes come together the welds are very nice and seem to be well done.

All in all I think that everything so far has been great with Jeff and Joe. I am now only hoping that the weather holds out so I can start the install.
I've been under the truck multiple times getting blocks cut wrenches bent and trying to check all my p's and q's to get everything ready for the install as I will not be able to let the truck sit as it is frequently used by my wife if I drive her gas getter to work and she does not drive the Ol' Ford(84 3/4 ton w/ 4speed & 460cid).
I have new O2 sensors from Walker that should reach the bungs further down the headers as well as some new studs and nuts for the headers in case of the obvious problems happening. Also, have the little things such as gaskets and anti-seeze. I also figure I'll put in a new air filter and plugs immediately after the install in order to get the best results for the data logs.

I again want to say thanks to Jeff and Joe as they have put much effort forward toward keeping me informed and ready for all the install has to dish at me.

I will try to keep tabs on the install so as to help anyone else be informed on ways that worked for me in installing the headers on a 4x4 titan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Removed the heat shields this morning.They didn't seem too bad to remove, though they may have been installed in one piece the drivers side came out in two pieces the larger of the two coming out from above. The passenger side was removed in three pieces with the largest coming out along the exhaust from the bottom. Bless angled tin snips. Now it is time to coat the bolts in panther piss for at least a week if the weather cooperates and more if it does not.
Leaving the inner fenders out leaves me a bit concerned about that large electrical connection getting pounded w/ dirt and moisture from the tires while I wait for a good time to start the install so I figured I better cover it w/ a bag until the inner fender is put back in.
I hope the install stays as straight forward as it looks. Maybe not easy but I am hoping I don't have to fight any studs causing me trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The bolts are not as bad looking as I expected them to be but still have some rust on a couple of them I've started out hitting them with PB blaster but I think on the few that look a little worse I will hit them with a little brake cleaner to get the PB and other oils off and then brush them down with some hydrogen peroxide as it is a good agent at working at rust but not so aggressive as other acids that eat at metals.
We'll see how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Waa hoooo.

Decided to install the headers and Bpipes today. Didn't go too bad. I'll go over what I found useful during the install after I get cleaned up and get inside. I went out and ran her with the first rom that Joe made for me and WOW I am impressed and it is supposed to get better from here. Well I can't wait. I'll try to take some pics of some of the things that I think are useful during install as well as make a list of tools used.

If you are contemplating manifolds and staying stock... DON'T... These trucks should come from the factory like this..

Thanks again to Joe and Jeff for Cajun Tuning & Bpipes!!!!
 

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Exactly what Joe said! And true Nissan should have made the truck like this. Thanks for the business and glad you like your new Titan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Technology Electronics Auto part Machine


Here are some of the tools that were a must as well as goodies that I had on hand in order to make the install a bit easier.

Sorry about the pic quality but that is what ya get for a $14 phone...

As you can see I have a lot of 14mm wrenches but each one was useful due to the different lengths and angles but the one that was worth its weight in gold was the one to the left which was a proto ratcheting reversible non-slip style box end.
You will also see lots of extensions and some adapters listen to me here the more you got the better. I used many extensions put together with a wobble extension and a universal 14mm to get to the motor mount bolts and that was a life saver for breaking the motor mounts loose.
Also, a tool which I bought just for this install was the flex head 3/8 ratchet. It was also irreplaceable I don't believe I would have had such an easy time doing this without it. I also consider it a must for the job.
Then there is the assorted sizes and lengths of 14mm sockets including medium deep swivel which was a must.
The impact was used but no more accessibility than I had w/ it I could have gotten by w/out it.
The grinder was essential in making clearance for the headers to the motor mounts as well as shortening a heat shield bolt on the passenger side that was making it a real chore to get the header slid up into place.

The what knots include the nuts that go on the header, gaskets(header to head, header to Bpipe/Bpipe to tailpipe), O2 sensors(I got the walkers that had the longer harness so if I had to replace they were easier to get to). I also reused my tailpipe behind the Bpipes so in order to make it all fit I had to take the 1 1/2" clamp loose on the Y pipe and it was not going to come loose w/o the assistance of the grinder so luckly I had an extra clamp on hand from when I did the tailpipe on my old Frontier.
Also, zip ties are good to have to hold things out of the way during install(like the front drive shaft) as well as to keep the wiring from the O2's out of dangers way.


All in all it was not a horrible install I had to use the acetylene torch on 1 bolt surprisingly it was on the passenger side on one that looked like it would not be bad to get out but it started to round out so a little red heat and a spritz of panther piss and it came right out.

Also, I want to mention that when you are breaking bolts loose w/ a ratchet if you can place pry bars or screwdrivers underneath and against the sockets to keep them from twisting off to the side it makes the success rate of removing the header bolts much better.

All in all this project took me about 6 hours yesterday plus about 1 hour getting the garage ready(moving all my crap outside) and another hour for cleanup. So with no breaks except to get a drink or the opposite of that :) it is a fullllllllllll days work for one person, but it is possible. To be honest I was really fretting this job as the constant horror stories I have heard on TT, but I think I lucked out between having good info (Cajun, Member of TT whom have posted their experiences) and being lucky that none of the bolts were horrible the job I done.
Now, I just have to re-torque and put the inner fenders back in and its on to tunning and she will be golden...

If I can help answer any questions for anyone doing the install let me know and I will try to the best of my ability.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
^^^^
On the passenger side I only had to loosen the four bolts that hold the mount to the block but to get the driver side in I had to loosen the four bolts and the long 17mm bolt to get enough room to get the header on without removing the studs that go into the head. I would not remove any of them all the way because getting them lined back up may be a bizatch. The way I went about doing it is I loosened the four bolts on each side of the block jacked up the motor what I could then on the passenger side took a small pry bar and a wedge and wiggled the motor over to one side w/ the pry bar and worked the small wedge in between the block and mount. The driver side this did not work and I had to also loosen the 17mm bolt that goes from the mount to the perch in order to jack the motor up just a bit more to clear the studs. Also the passenger side I had to clearance(grind) the motor mount a little so it would not contact the headers after final install so make sure to check for that before getting everything tight cuz that will piss ya off if ya gotta do it twice!!!
Good luck.
If you have more ?'s don't hesitate to ask I'll do the best I can to answer.


BTW Joe is on the ball I sent him some logs last nite and he has already sent me an updated ROM. On the weekend no less. Thanks again Joe.
 

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For me the most difficult bolts were the driver side engine mount bolts that go into the block. The front diff blocked most of them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Blocks and floor jack also but the 4wd did add some challenge. I also unbolted the front drive shaft to gain some access. The biggest hindrance was the steering shaft but like I say I was able to get all the bolts on the driver side w/ no major prob. but it was one on the pass side that gave me trouble and surprisingly it was one that I had decent access to.
 

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I had to loosen the mount bolts on both sides, but I did them one side at a time. This gave me plenty of room to install headers.

Jeff and Joe's customer service is second to none!
 
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