[Rage232]

** Just realized you cannot edit the title... should be more like JBA Headers/Cajun/upgrev lol but whatever
Well I finally got my axle fixed... Time to start the full exhaust install.
Yesterday I got started on the drivers side of things.

I removed the wheel, then plastic liner to access heat shields. got them off fairly easy. Soaked all the manifold bolts in PB Blaster, then fired the truck up and warmed it for 10-15 minutes letting it idle.

I moved on to the end of the exhaust and found that where the tail pipe broke, my wire harness was about as close as it gets to being burnt up! I fixed it by wrapping it up with some electrical tape... What a close call!! (see pic)

I was able to get all 3 of 4 bolts removed from the B-pipes, one will need cut. Most of the rest of the exhaust will need cut out as well, the bolts are extremely rusted and just round right off. I got the secondary 02 sensors out.

I sprayed the manifold nuts again with PB blaster, then started the truck and let it run for another 10-15 minutes, then shut it down. Is this the correct procedure or is it not necessary to do this heat cycle?

This afternoon at lunch, I figured I'd have quick go at 1 of the manifold bolts, the one I could get to easiest. It will not budge! This makes me pretty nervous... I have the wife picking up a $15 can of Aerokroil hoping for the best.... Is it ok to use the air gun on the manifold nuts or is the preferred method a breaker bar?

Weather moron is calling for thunderstorms tonight, but if I get lucky and no rain, my plan is to cut off the rest of the exhaust where needed and get everything removed accept the manifolds. I still have to get the passenger side up on a jack stand and remove the plastic wheel liner and then heat shield so I can start soaking those manifold nuts as well. Since it seems to take most people 8 hours for this install, I'm guessing mine will be around the 16-24 mark.. That's just how it goes anytime I work on anything!

 

[jamull2852]

I recently did the JBA long tube header install, can find my post under my name but I gave a description on what I did. Basically I soaked the manifold bolts for almost a week 2x a day. I was able to get to all the manifold bolts with just a 12'' 3/8'' breaker bar. Had all the bolts loose within minutes. Total job took 4 hours. Thats with the heat shield and wheel wells out a week before. Luckily it went smooth for me, 2wd btw. Let me know if you have any questions I may be able to help.

 

[Rage232]

Well I'm probably 8 hours in and only working on the passenger side I can't get the heat shield off of the driver side I need to cut it - A 10 mm also a 9 mm neither will fit on any of the heat shield bolts they are so rusted. Really only 1 maybe 2 lots are even holding it. The others rusted through. This is simple though so I am not concerned with it. It's the manifold nuts...

I tried my impact At 125 psi and can't budge a passenger side manifold nut loose. Tried with a 2ft breaker and the nut starts to strip and that's with me grunting felt like I was gonna lift the damn truck off the jackstand!

I sprayed again tonight but I quit for now... buddy says hear with torches but I don't see anyone doing that on here? Why are these things so tight!? I was able to break loose o2 sensors with ease in comparison... beyond frustrated right now ?

 

[jamull2852]

Yeah being rusted don't help at all. Luckily Im in South Louisiana so nothing is rusted on the truck. My manifold bolts were pretty snug but like I said I was able to just jack up the motor and get my whole arm inside the wheel well with a 12'' breaker bar and give it all I have in order to break them loose, but they did come loose each time. If your to a point where you can stop and still drive the truck then I would suggest keep spraying the bolts for another week or so, maybe even try a few different products on it. But if you have the b pipes and 02 sensors out then might as well keep going forward, good luck. Don't let stress get to you but it don't help anything.

 

[Rage232]

Thanks. Yeah I have all of the exhaust off at this point, accept these manifolds... Now it's time to get serious on these manifold nuts. I'm going to see if I can find a cheater pipe and nut extractors -- idea's from this thread:
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/tit...-questions-sorry-if-its-getting-annoying.html


I think a friend to help would really really come in handy - hopefully having a buddy coming tonight... Yes the stress is def not helping lol - I had to walk away from it last night... Can't believe the impact wont budge them... Then they start to strip with my big breaker bar... Hoping a friend has better luck or can help keep things lined up better, etc. I'll find out in approx 6 hours!!!

 

[all torque]

I would keep spraying and letting it soak. Patience is key. If you break off one of those studs it will be more of a pain in the butt. The torch trick can work if you focus on the nuts. The idea is that metal swells as it heats up. Make sure you are using a 6 point and not a 12 point socket. I tried with a 12 point boxed end wrench and the nuts began to strip, I switched​ to a 6 point and didn't ​have that issue anymore.

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[Rage232]

Some updates -
Was able to get the drivers side heat shield off. I used the nut extractors I bought from Autozone from the link above. First 1 rusted and stripped nut came out really easy with this tool. The 2nd, was barely accessible - thus took me about 20 minutes to get out. Once they were out, I unplugged the 02 sensor and pulled the heatshield out by sending it up towards the hood and pulling it out from the top.

I started soaking the drivers side in the Aerokroil and waited on re-inforcements for the passenger side.

When my buddy showed up, we put the 2ft breaker bar on the most accessible nut and gave it hell. Quit after a bit and he said we were likely to snap that headstud before it will bust loose. He advised getting heat on it... I'm really close to calling up a local garage and having it towed - let them get these out and put the new ones in... I'm fed up!! Looks like torches will be my last shot.

Oh and currently, I do not have the engine jacked up. I was looking at my passenger side motor mount - it doesn't look very good. the 4 bolts going to the motor; you can see the nut, but it doesn't look like they thread all the way in. They look really rusted as well. I was scared to even attempt at the possibility of stripping one of them as well and having a major problem. I can try to get a pic later. Thoughts on that?? I'm starting to hate my Titan for the first time ever...

My Neighbor suggested using this thing Bolt Buster device over the torches.... Anyone ever use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Buster-BB2-ACC-Handheld-Induction/dp/B00ATSL7VE

I'd be extremely pissed if I had to drop another $400 and it didn't work ...

 

[carbonduc27]

Man, you are giving me flashbacks to all those subborn bolts i have come across in my wrench time. It sucks turning a 1-2 day job into weeks.

Not sure i have much else to offer since it sounds like you are doing everything. Heat has always been my last resort and often worked. I was removing an axle nut to change a wheel bearing and had about 6 ft of breaker bar on it and jumped up and down. broke 2 bars! finally heated the crap out of the nut and got it to pop loose. Problem for you is the nut is not so easily accessible.

Is there any way to get a small grinder/cutting wheel on the nut? risky since it could damage the threads but is another trick i have had to use.

What chemical eats away rust? I heard acid like Phosphoric acid (i think is is krud kutter from home depot) or maybe muriatic acid???

 

[Rage232]

haha sorry for the flashbacks!! We are busting out the torch tonight.. I'm hoping if heated enough I'll break it with an open end wrench for the hard to reach ones. i'm going to be finding the best way to get onto the nut before torching it. Still nervous about these engine mounts... Should be fun.. wish me luck! lol

 

[Rage232]

Phew -- what an install!

Torch on the manifold nuts made them spin right off... I couldn't believe what a difference heating them up made!!

New manifolds were a crazy tight fit trying to get them back in - even with engine mounts loose and motor lifted, but we got em in there. Unfortunately for me, when I tightened 1 of the engine mounts on the passenger side, it stripped... We ran a "re-threader" (supposedly better than a regular tap set) through it, applied lock-tite and made tightened it just 'snug' - gonna have to hope this holds for now and check it periodically...

My dipstick popped right out with the slightest pull. This was because the o-ring on it was half missing... I got a new one from NAPA and it was too big.. we couldn't get it back in. I had to file it down a bit smaller to make it fit -- will also have to check this for leaks - hopefully it works.

So I have the

Cajun 2.5" resonated bpipes
JBA Header 6400S
JBA Cat-Back40-1400

=-- WOW! What a beast! It's loud, not crazy loud, but it does have that drone sound around 1700rpms. This is what the 3" ultraquiet resonator is for, but it's still sitting in the box. I don't mind the drone yet - so I'm not installing it as of right now. I love the way it sounds - prolly too loud for most but to each their own

ECU is flashed on the basetune from Joe. I have yet to receive my S&B cold air intake - could be a couple weeks at this point b/c i'm not sure what the place i ordered from is doing... It's not clear if they are doing the refund or if they are sending me another

 

[all torque]

Congrats! Glad to hear that you got it done. The combo is pretty loud. The resonator definitely quiets it down, it cleans it up quite a bit too. Now, it is no where near as loud but I think that it sounds way better.

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[Rage232]

Thanks! Yeah it's def turning heads right now with it being so loud. I was in a parking lot yesterday picking up my daughter. We hopped in and I fired the truck up, the guy in the jeep next to me opened his door real fast and was leaning out looking back at my exhaust - startup is loud and I like it I just gave em the ol nod and drove off.

It would be %100 perfect where it's at if it didn't have the super loud drone around the 1500-2000 rpms. That drone is rough. Rattles my tailgate even... But so far, I like it and don't want to change it.

My real test will be towards the end of this week when I have to tow - if it's too loud for my taste towing it, I'll be throwing the UQR on there and call it good.

Also getting the S&B intake - if that makes it louder, then again still good to have the UQR laying around just in case


Did you get all your tuning finished up? Did you have a pretty noticeable difference in the basemap vs final tune? I can def tell a difference in power on the base tune - but after reading your thread I was expecting a lot more wheel spin in first gear - my tires are pretty heavy though too. I'm already getting this bad itch to get more and more power

 

[seymore4]

ECU is flashed on the basetune from Joe. I have yet to receive my S&B cold air intake - could be a couple weeks at this point b/c i'm not sure what the place i ordered from is doing...

If its going to be a couple weeks go ahead and send me some datalogs now, we can just update it when you get the intake on

 

[all torque]

Thanks! Yeah it's def turning heads right now with it being so loud. I was in a parking lot yesterday picking up my daughter. We hopped in and I fired the truck up, the guy in the jeep next to me opened his door real fast and was leaning out looking back at my exhaust - startup is loud and I like it I just gave em the ol nod and drove off.

It would be %100 perfect where it's at if it didn't have the super loud drone around the 1500-2000 rpms. That drone is rough. Rattles my tailgate even... But so far, I like it and don't want to change it.

My real test will be towards the end of this week when I have to tow - if it's too loud for my taste towing it, I'll be throwing the UQR on there and call it good.

Also getting the S&B intake - if that makes it louder, then again still good to have the UQR laying around just in case


Did you get all your tuning finished up? Did you have a pretty noticeable difference in the basemap vs final tune? I can def tell a difference in power on the base tune - but after reading your thread I was expecting a lot more wheel spin in first gear - my tires are pretty heavy though too. I'm already getting this bad itch to get more and more power

Yeah all my tuning is done. While running the data logs I noticed that I would spin the wheels much easier after every tune. On everyday driving I notice it when I have to get up to speed quick. But when I really felt the power was during my camping trip. I was loaded up with the wife, 2 kids, dog, my camping gear, food, water and tools for the weekend. I would say that it was easily over 1k pounds (not including my 205 lbs) and I didn't even feel the weight when accelerating or going up the steep climbs on the highway. I could tell I was heavy because I could feel it in the brakes.

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[LUBECAKES]

I had to snap my heat shield bolts off then destroy the shields to get them out. I used a small oxygen/acetylene brazing torch to warm up 4 of the manifold nuts, the others broke loose pretty easy.