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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Finished Installing T12V System...Houston we have BASS!!!

Started Saturday installing the Tech12 box enclosure and subs in my son's 05 LE crew cab. Started by removing the front seats and then running the power using the foam that surrounds the AC drain hose that has been posted before. When I lifted the pasenger side carpet, I found a mess and busted fuseholder for the FM modulator for the DVD player. I wrapped the power cable with friction tape and utilized the rubber gromet to protect the cable where it exited the firewall. Drilled a small hole and mounted the fuse holder on lip of the engine compartment directly over the fuse box by the battery. Snaked it down the wiring channel along with the remote power wire. Removed the stock sub and tapped into the four existing wires and mounted the LOC on the air vent using tie wraps and snaked the cables down and over in the drivers side wire channel. Mounted the remote sensitivy in the console, removed the cup hold and popped the rear off of the console and ran the RS wire under the carpet by the hump and all the extra stored nicely under the console. Just a note, anytime you pull that phone connector, tape the little locking clip so it doesn't get damaged.

I bought the enclosure with the amp tray, so I added some cable hangers and pre-wired from the amp to the rear connectors. Also soldered the speaker wires inside the sub enclosures on the backside of the conector.

**Note** I took the rings that came in the box for the subs and lids to the boxes, traced it and cut them out and made some protective covers for the subs that came in very handy!!!!! I kept these on at all times during the install and they protected the subs from anything that might have fallen or dropped. Gave me great piece of mind knowing nothing was going to damage the subs when they were on.

Finally got to the point of putting the encl/subs/amp in the truck and began connecting everything up. Hooked the remote power wire in the cold side of the audio fuse which was the fourth one up on the left hand side of the fuse block. Hooked up the battery after re-installing both seats and checked voltages & the remote power.

Removed the speaker wires and hooked my laptop into the aux input and set the Hz @60, adjusted the amp sensitivity to get 40 volts rms on the output. Reconnected the speakers & remote sensitivity pot. Before mounting the amp down, I went to the hardware store and bought 12 rubber washers. Used these as isolators and also the amp will have air space for heat disipation all the way around.

Here are all the pictures

http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f326/matthepa/Drews%20Sub/
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
After mounting the amp, I made some brackets that actually cover the screwheads holding the amp in place. I then used two 3" self tapping scews and ran these down into the floor board of the truck. These will hopefully stop some low life SOB that didn't learn to keep their hands off of shiat that aint theirs from just ripping the whole system out. The enclosure is bolted solid to the floor and these brackets will keep someone from just ripping the amp off of the box........I hope anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I have to say that this has been a learning experience for me. But with all of the help from James and the info on this site made it alot easier than what I thought it would be in the beginning.

I luv how everything came out.......this system sounds BAD AZZ!!!!

I don't know how to explain it other that this system kicks azz. It makes the stock RF system sound so good. It deffinately filled the void that the small stock sub couldn't.

James thanks for all of the help and for selling quality!!!!

My son loves it and I now want one for my F350....LOL (I'm jealous)

I will get some more pics tomorrow..........

In the last picture, the two bolts on each side of the amp (3" self tapping) goes threw the lip brackets, threw the amp rack and into the floor board of the truck.
 

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Great write up man. Looks like you did a great job. I bet your son thinks your the shiat right now.LOL Thanks again and let me know when he is ready to upgrade the door speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
tech12volt said:
Great write up man. Looks like you did a great job. I bet your son thinks your the shiat right now.LOL Thanks again and let me know when he is ready to upgrade the door speakers.
Funny you say that, we were talking about it last night.....damn this shiat is addicting.

You can reply here or PM me with what you suggest and price.........Christmas is right around the corner.....lol
 

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HAHA we have another victim! Nice job on the install, it looks like you took your time and kept it all real clean! Next will be new comps for the doors and a HU. You'd be amazed at what a difference this stuff really makes!!

Send James some dimensions for your F350, I'm sure he could make something work for you!
 

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Great writeup! You even took the time to config the levels correctly. I still need to learn how to use an ohm-meter properly. :D

Does anyone know if the non RF Titan's have the sub wires prerun to the passenger seat? I'm starting to get the audio bug again and am starting to lean towards a new sub/amp setup similar to this for my xmas present to myself. :D
 

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Do you guys realize how much better this install looks than most of the pro installs that graced this forum and others.
 

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tech12volt said:
Do you guys realize how much better this install looks than most of the pro installs that graced this forum and others.
I know, you and P'dizzle dont like my plexiglass.. haha
 

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AgTitan06 said:
You ran your power wire the same place I ran mine, and I also hooked my remote wire into the cold side of the audio fuse!

Yes after we had a phone call about the cold side of the fuse. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
AgTitan06 said:
You ran your power wire the same place I ran mine, and I also hooked my remote wire into the cold side of the audio fuse!

LOL, I had my laptop outside and popped open your install pics a couple of times.......thanks :cheers:

Here is some of the last pics I took today of the battery hook up and with the seat down..

One problem I found today though with running the cable through the water drain opening. When I put the friction tape on the cable and had my son pull it back into the cabin, the tape actually pulled the foam about a 1/4" into the cabin away from the firewall.....this enabled water to enter the cabin when the air conditioner was on.......I tried pushing it back into place but gave up. Took a can of foam and filled the gap and sealed between the firewall and foam around the drain pipe (Gawd I hate that crap!!!)........I actually removed the friction tape and just used the plastic wire loom wrap that came with the kit before spraying the foam in.....tested it with a water hose and it is good to go.

If I was going to do it again, I think that I would drill a hole through the firewall and use water tight gromet from work.....
 

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BMF'n Titan said:
LOL, I had my laptop outside and popped open your install pics a couple of times.......thanks :cheers:

Here is some of the last pics I took today of the battery hook up and with the seat down..

One problem I found today though with running the cable through the water drain opening. When I put the friction tape on the cable and had my son pull it backinto the cabin, the tape actually pulled the foam about a 1/4" into the cabin away from the firewall.....this enabled water to enter the cabin when the air conditioner was on.......I tried pushing it back into place but gave up. Took a can of foam and filled the gap and sealed between the firewall and foam around the drain pipe (Gawd I hate that crap!!!)........I actually removed the friction tape and just used the plastic wire loom wrap that came with the kit before spraying the foam in.....tested it with a water hose and it is good to go.

If I was going to do it again, I think that I would drill a hole through the firewall and use water tight gromet from work.....

heres a trick for pulling taped wires through a rubber grommet. Spray the taped section with wd40 . Makes it slide right through.
 

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Drilling a hole and using a liquitight connection is the best if you can, not only does it lock down on the wire and support it but its also waterproof.
 

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BMF'n Titan said:
LOL, I had my laptop outside and popped open your install pics a couple of times.......thanks :cheers:
I'll be doing the same as you on my install. :rollingsm Thanks for the extra effort to document this in such a complete manner.
 

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tech12volt said:
Do you guys realize how much better this install looks than most of the pro installs that graced this forum and others.
Yea but he cheated and went with the CC :p

I like the install, and I wish I could secure my sub box like you did yours.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Justintoxicated said:
Yea but he cheated and went with the CC :p

I like the install, and I wish I could secure my sub box like you did yours.
Do you have the amp rack in the enclosure?

My amp is held down with the 4 wood screws at each corner. I built the brackets so that they go down each side rail of the amp and actually cover the wood screw heads holding the amp. I then just drilled holes through the enclosure and used 3" self tapping screws into the floor of the truck. Hopefully it will keep some low life from just ripping the amp off of the box or just cutting the wires and taking the whole setup.

You should be able to do the same thing even without the brackets, just get the length of self tapping metal screw and screw it down with washers. I did make sure that I didn't run it down so as to put alot of pressure on the enclosure but made sure it was tight enough to make a low life think twice about it.

I would rather they tear the shiat out of it and it be worthless to them than letting them be able to grab it and enjoy it or sell it......
 

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BMF'n Titan said:
Do you have the amp rack in the enclosure?

My amp is held down with the 4 wood screws at each corner. I built the brackets so that they go down each side rail of the amp and actually cover the wood screw heads holding the amp. I then just drilled holes through the enclosure and used 3" self tapping screws into the floor of the truck. Hopefully it will keep some low life from just ripping the amp off of the box or just cutting the wires and taking the whole setup.

You should be able to do the same thing even without the brackets, just get the length of self tapping metal screw and screw it down with washers. I did make sure that I didn't run it down so as to put alot of pressure on the enclosure but made sure it was tight enough to make a low life think twice about it.

I would rather they tear the shiat out of it and it be worthless to them than letting them be able to grab it and enjoy it or sell it......
I mounted one amp behind my rear seat to a piece of MDF that bolts up using countersunk holes and factory bolts. I made a similar rack and mounted it where the jack goes for the second smaller amp. (relocated jack to under my front seat).

But my sub box is downfiring so it would take some modifications to bolt it to the floor like I wanna.
 
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