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ok so this has been done before, but i thought i would post some comments on changing the oil for the first time. not new to oil changes, but here is an easy breakdown for even a person who has never done it. i read alot of threads seeing what oil to use and what filters to use its pretty spread across the board.

tools required:
channel lock pliers
1/4 or 3/8 ratchet with a 10mm socket (skid plate bolts-4)
same for oil pan bolt except 14mm socket
7 qts oil
oil filter
shop towels
drain pan

First take off the 2 bolts behind the bumper on your skid plate. loosen the back 2. skid plate will move forward and come right off. i read a post that said you dont have to, but you might as well it takes just a couple minutes and if your lucky like me you'll find your Plastic posative battery node cover wedged in there. go ahead and put that back on the battery. gg nissan.

second use the channel locks to take off your old oil filter. the factory one is on tight, pinch it and you got it. alot easier than a filter wrench. drain for 5 mins or so.

scoot your drain pan under the drain plug and be ready for it to shoot out. not as bad as i read in posts, its not like a super soaker, but its faster than an old beat up chevy. drain for another 5 mins or so. tighten plug back. snug, not tight. over tighten and your SOL, ride your bike to NAPA and get another.

take your new filter and take some of the old oil and rub it on the new seal ring to ensure it seats well. snug it on hand tight. anything tighter than hand tight is too much. it wont leak i promise.

fill her up. it will take every bit of 6 1/2 qts. let it idle and warm up, check it, cool it, check it. as long as you have no leaks your good 2 go.

now as far as oil and filters, there is a ton. i used Valvoline SynPower 5w30. its fully synthetic and is recommended for trucks with any performance mods, you live in a temp range of below 20 degrees up to above 90 degrees, or tow frequently. i put a K&N filter on only because they didnt have a mobile 1 filter or i would have used that. dont buy a cheap filter and your fine. people will argue back and forth all day on what filters and/or oil to use. all synthetic oils are good some are recommended for different climates and what not so do a little research its the blood of your motor. oil was 5$ a qt and filter was 12$. i changed my oil at 2500 miles and i should have changed it sooner it was black which means it was doing a ton of cleaning in the motor. also dont freak if you go with synthetic oil and it doesnt look like its even touching the dipstick. its clear as can be so run your finger on it. if you put 6 1/2 qts in there is oil on that stick trust me. touch it. this is my first time using synthetic and i went thru the whole freak out thing mentioned above. sunlight and beer is a killer when zoning in on a tiny dipstick.

anyways sorry so long, my 2 cents hope it helps somebody looking to do it on their own. btw im a new member and new to a Titan love the site, forums, members all seem helpful with good info.
 

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Nice write up.

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getLocator&siteid=214761&chapter=ARF3625&appSectionid=4117&groupid=2459&subgroupid=2464&componentid=2887&make=25&model=Titan&year=2008&graphicID=3625145&callout=17&catalogid=2

Its only $11.55 from here for the whole oil pan assy. (just in case you break it).

I looked under there today while changing my front brakes and though that oil pan looked small. Further investigation proved my right, it IS small. Guess I'll have to find an oil cooler because I don't see a bigger pan fitting under there.
 

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I looked under there today while changing my front brakes and though that oil pan looked small. Further investigation proved my right, it IS small. Guess I'll have to find an oil cooler because I don't see a bigger pan fitting under there.

There is a larger aluminum pan which the smaller steel part bolts onto. I think the idea was that if you strip out the drain plug hole, you can simply unbolt the smaller "pan" and replace it with the one you speak of. The actual pan itself is rather large.
 

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There is a larger aluminum pan which the smaller steel part bolts onto. I think the idea was that if you strip out the drain plug hole, you can simply unbolt the smaller "pan" and replace it with the one you speak of. The actual pan itself is rather large.

Yeah, I did notice there was an UPPER and a LOWER pan. Weird. I'm still going to see about adding an oil cooler, eventually.

I know Stillen sells one...anyone know of one that is less expensive than theirs at $538.36?
 

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Yeah, I did notice there was an UPPER and a LOWER pan. Weird. I'm still going to see about adding an oil cooler, eventually.

I know Stillen sells one...anyone know of one that is less expensive than theirs at $538.36?
Yes, the one that is already on the truck, from the factory.
 
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