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First post, new truck, problems and questions!

1937 Views 23 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  9re9
Hello all, I've recently made the switch from an 06 CC tundra (which I loved) to an 08 CC LE long box. I made the switch because we needed something to seat 6, and after almost a year of hunting for either a tundra or a replacement bench I decided to make the swap since the two trucks seem to have similar reviews and followers. I have a bunch of questions about it but I guess I'll leave the others for the specific sections. I have two for this area.

1. While doing the drivers side tie rod end and lower ball joint last night I noticed that I have play in the output shaft of my diff. I've also read that some play is normal, but I don't know how much "some" is and I'm also leaking oil from that side. I noticed that there's no nut on the flange so it must have to come apart from inside to do the seal. My initial thought was to pull all the front drive components out and run 2wd until I get it figured out. From what I've read, I'll need to run with 4x4 on because the transfer case pump is driven from the front shaft, correct? Also, how are the front wheel bearings going to like not being clamped by the axle shaft? Will that cause an issue?

2. I have the beautiful exhaust tick. My intentions are to do a full swap from Cajun, but I'm bleeding money from all ends lately. I figure that if it's ok to run with the front axle out that it would be the ideal time to swap in long tubes. Can I get away with only doing headers right now? The truck has a K&N intake and what I would guess is a 22" magna flow. Any thoughts on this? Would headers mount to my stock exhaust without too much of a headache or not a chance?

Appreciate the help, looking forward to getting to know this truck. From the years of wrenching on my tundra it sure was quite the change of scenery last night, this T is beefy!
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If you do the headers, get the stage 1 manifold fix from Cajun b pipes. The headers and b pipes will bolt up to your stock pipes.

Sorry, I don't know much about modifying the front 4wd components.


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Thanks, that reminds me of another question I couldn't find the answer to. What the heck are b pipes? Just a generic term for the pipes off the rear of the cats?
The pipes immediately after your headers. They connect to the extender pipes that connect to the y pipe. Lots o pipes under there.


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Spent the morning on the hoist and ripped everything out. I drained the diff first and that oil came out silver, not feeling too great about that. Since I didn't hear anything about the wheel bearings I chose to throw a 1" bolt in there, center it as best as I could and torque to spec. I guess the diff is going to spend most of the summer in the shed until I decide to get it looked at. Next on the list is trying to find the best price on jba's in Canada.


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how funny is that...we both had 06 Toyota Tundra CC and than switched to 08 Nissan Titan longbeds lol!
Too funny, how do you feel about the switch?


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headers will bolt up to your factory Bpipes (mid pipes), you just obviously won't get the full benefits of your upgrade until you do add them.
Spent the morning on the hoist and ripped everything out. I drained the diff first and that oil came out silver, not feeling too great about that. Since I didn't hear anything about the wheel bearings I chose to throw a 1" bolt in there, center it as best as I could and torque to spec. I guess the diff is going to spend most of the summer in the shed until I decide to get it looked at. Next on the list is trying to find the best price on jba's in Canada.


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If you are an Amazon prime member I would look on there, I seen the coated jba for under 600 the other day. The 304 was just over 800.
I don't believe that the case oil pump is driven that way, considering any other one I've seen is driven through the input....that being said, I ran mine in 4 high the entire time, just because it won't hurt to do so.

You don't need to worry about the hub assemblies, but I still bolted mine because it keeps moisture and trash out of the splines.

If your driver side shaft play isn't excessive, you can simply pull it out and swap the seal. The only way to eliminate the "normal" amount of play is by getting a new unit.
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I dug up one or two posts that said that, and that was it. That's pretty much the decision I made though, it's always spinning anyway...

I'm glad I bolted mine just for that reason at least, one step further would have been to add a bit of grease in there I guess.

I guess I could throw a new seal in it and let it sit full for awhile until I get headers put in, I just don't know what excessive is? I think off the top of my head it was maybe a half inch total from one way to the other? The solid silver looking oil is another concern I have but I didn't see chunks or any obvious damage...?

headers will bolt up to your factory Bpipes (mid pipes), you just obviously won't get the full benefits of your upgrade until you do add them.
Also headers are what, 2.5" and factory piping is 2? I wanted to add to that, aside from being able to bolt on, I'd be ok with that set up without the uprev for a bit? What are you guys using to monitor the A/F ratio? I have access to a scan tool that I'm pretty sure had data log so I'm assuming that would work.

If you are an Amazon prime member I would look on there, I seen the coated jba for under 600 the other day. The 304 was just over 800.
I saw a set on Amazon for about 680 and I think those were stainless long tubes. 6400s right? I'm much happier looking at doing that job with my front diff out. MIGHT be ok
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Silver oil is bad news :frown:

I got my JBA headers for 495 shipped. Having the front drive out really helped with the install.
Silver oil is bad news :frown:



I got my JBA headers for 495 shipped. Having the front drive out really helped with the install.

495 shipped in US funds right?
I dug up one or two posts that said that, and that was it. That's pretty much the decision I made though, it's always spinning anyway...



I'm glad I bolted mine just for that reason at least, one step further would have been to add a bit of grease in there I guess.



I guess I could throw a new seal in it and let it sit full for awhile until I get headers put in, I just don't know what excessive is? I think off the top of my head it was maybe a half inch total from one way to the other? The solid silver looking oil is another concern I have but I didn't see chunks or any obvious damage...?







Also headers are what, 2.5" and factory piping is 2? I wanted to add to that, aside from being able to bolt on, I'd be ok with that set up without the uprev for a bit? What are you guys using to monitor the A/F ratio? I have access to a scan tool that I'm pretty sure had data log so I'm assuming that would work.







I saw a set on Amazon for about 680 and I think those were stainless long tubes. 6400s right? I'm much happier looking at doing that job with my front diff out. MIGHT be ok

The ones I seen were the 6400 which are 409 for around 600 Canadian, the 304ss one were over 800.
Well yes you would be ok for a little while but that would be finding out where your afrs are an not going WOT.
Uprev in my opinion in mandatory for adding headers, yes some flex fuel guys get away with it but at the same time they aren't getting the full potential from them Either
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495 shipped in US funds right?
Yes sir.
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We get so shafted up here with the dollar the way it is. Sucks!
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Headers went in yesterday/today. Was going as good as that job could go and then the very last nut decided to pile up and destroy the last thread of the stud and nut. Shut down to get a thread file and a tap and die, also to reset . It went well this morning, it was tough to make sure I got that right. After that I fff'd up and didn't realize that I'd barely be able to get onto the rear bolt of the two that tighten downwards on each side. I think I realize now that they maybe didn't need to get loosened, just the four into the block. Didn't know that. So the front one is tight and currently the rear bolt has been replaced with a 3/8 bolt and locknut from the bottom up. Thinking I'm going to improve on that when I do a torque check on the headers. I bought the pipes up north and and getting catted pipes and uprev from the Cajun boys. I'm really happy to have done the headers though. I thought I was replacing for a drivers side crack but as stated here previously, much worse. Both sides had gasket leaks and both sides had huge cracks. So sad, they seem like they have better "flow" to them than most factory manifolds.


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Bringing this back to life hopefully. Snowed here today and this 2wd/1wd truck sucks balls. I talked to the previous owner again who figured he never changed the oil up front so I'm throwing a seal in and crossing my fingers. This looks a bit more involved than I guessed it would have been. Has anyone replaced the drivers side axle seal?


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Change of plan, a shop here can do it cheap and I have other things to worry about!


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