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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was wondering the technique / procedure everyone uses to drain, flush cooling system. I own a 2005 Titan with 26k miles and I want to do this in the next month.

Thank You.

Brad
 

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Drain cooling system using radiator drain, block drain plug, oil cooler hose, empty reservoir. Refill everything including reservoir with distilled water, run engine & heater to operating temperature, shutoff engine, cool to a level you won't scald yourself, drain, repeat until drained water looks clean.

Evacuate air & re-fill with coolant using this (or similar):

Amazon.com: UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit: Automotive


You can also refill manually & try to bleed the air out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Drain cooling system using radiator drain, block drain plug, oil cooler hose, empty reservoir. Refill everything including reservoir with distilled water, run engine & heater to operating temperature, shutoff engine, cool to a level you won't scald yourself, drain, repeat until drained water looks clean.

Evacuate air & re-fill with coolant using this (or similar):

Amazon.com: UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit: Automotive


You can also refill manually & try to bleed the air out.
Roughly how many gallons of distilled water should I have on hand for the flushing process. I know it's impossible to say for sure, but if you were to make a ballpark estimate.

Thanks again.

Brad
 

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Capacity = 3.25 gallons w/ overflow reservoir at MAX

So 7 gallons will flush twice, which should be plenty. Then you may need another couple of gallons more depending on whether you use pre-mixed or mix your own 50/50 anti-freeze to refill.
 

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Ive been asking this question for awhile but never get a straight answer. aside from the expensive dealer coolant what else is available over the counter.
 

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Nissan says:

CAUTION:
 When adding or replacing coolant, be sure to use only Genuine NISSAN Long Life Anti-freeze
coolant or equivalent with the proper mixture ratio of 50% anti-freeze and 50% demineralized water
or distilled water.  Other types of coolant solutions may damage your cooling system.

You can spend hours reading about this topic at bobistheoilguy.com

What I recall is Honda, Toyota, Nissan is basically the same stuff in different colors.

People report using Zerex Asian and Peak Global Lifetime in Honda, Toyota, Nissan w/o problems.

I have Amsoil in the Titan and Peak Global in the wife's Highlander.

Coolant Flush And Fill -- Who's Done It? - Page 3 - Nissan Frontier / Navara Forum
 

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If you drain the block via the plug in the picture how do you re-fill to avoid air bubbles? Will filling via the reservior make it's way through the block before starting? On my Corvettes I never do a full flush. I just drain the radiator, re-fill, then do the OEM bleed procedure every couple years.
 

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Bumping this for the above question :bump:
 

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There is no need to pull that block plug just drain then fill will D water, run with heater on. Drain water and refill will 50/50 antifreeze. Done
 

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Dude, it only costs about $75.00 to have it done at a shop. IMHO, it's worth the $ to not have to deal with disposal of the old stuff, spillage, etc.

I have had it done 3 times over 175k. 1 Wynn service at the dealer and 2 BG cooling system services at shops. No issues and should take them about 30 min.
 

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Anyone have a recommendation as to whether I should flush my cooling system on my 2008 Nissan titan when changing the antifreeze. My concern is that with 160, 000 miles I could be doing more harm than good. I would just be flushing it with distilled water. Not a bottle of radiator flush or anything. I ask because I've always stuck to the idea that flushing a transmission after not having it regularly flushed can be a bad idea. Being that you could loosen up junk you don't want loosened up. I used a bottle of radiator flush on my 1997 Nissan hard body once and ended up with a blown head gasket shortly thereafter. Hard lesson learned. I will NEVER use radiator flush ever again. It blew out a weak point in the head gasket
 

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Anyone have a recommendation as to whether I should flush my cooling system on my 2008 Nissan titan when changing the antifreeze. My concern is that with 160, 000 miles I could be doing more harm than good. I would just be flushing it with distilled water. Not a bottle of radiator flush or anything. I ask because I've always stuck to the idea that flushing a transmission after not having it regularly flushed can be a bad idea. Being that you could loosen up junk you don't want loosened up. I used a bottle of radiator flush on my 1997 Nissan hard body once and ended up with a blown head gasket shortly thereafter. Hard lesson learned. I will NEVER use radiator flush ever again. It blew out a weak point in the head gasket
You using a cleaning product most likely had nothing to do with your HG blowing, doing it incorrectly or it was just it's time to go.
A spash & fill is really that's all that's needed.
Btw, this thread was last commented on in 2012.
 

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I hope you realize that anytime you ask for opinions....you get ones that conflict...or are outright wrong. So here's mine. There are three reasons people should change their antifreeze: an engine bay repair, high electrolysis level, old age(coolant gone bad). I tell you this because doing a flush won't cause any harm, but it shouldn't be necessary on an aluminum block with aluminum heads using an aluminum radiator, etc.

The best way, I've found, for establishing a coolant change (drain and fill) is to use a multimeter+hygrometer+coolant test strips. Each one gives a pass/fail read. Do them in the following order......Get one fail, drain and fill. No fail, drive on.

Here's why:
1. the hygrometer (cheap and easy to use) will tell you if the coolant will perform it's "freeze" level.

2. The digital multimeter will tell you if your coolant is performing electrolysis on the metal parts it's contacting. Put the voltage on DC. If it has ranges ...set at the lowest voltage setting that is a whole number. Clip the negative to the battery neg post, remove the radiator cap, start the engine and bring up to temp. Get the rpm's at 2000 and put the positive lead into the coolant. If you get a voltage of half of one volt, the coolant is now dangerous to your engine.

3. The test strips (cheap and easy to use) will identify chemical changes that harm both the engine and coolant performance.
 

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Drain what you can from the radiator.
Refill the radiator.
Run the engine a while and make sure the level is good.
 
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