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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well I wanted to protect my trucks driveability without going extreme on shockhoops and new coilover. This I'm keeping the Shocks but the UCa is still for sale. I took the least expensive route and got some custom work done on my coilbuckets along with Fox bumpstops. Since its a TitanSwap I thought I'd share with you guys. Robby Woolworth at Woolworth motorsports is very talented and a great guy. Home - Woolworth Motorsports I recommend him to anyone, for anything.



A tear developed in my coilbucket a few weeks ago.



He took the factory bumpstop and actually built the can mounts off of those.


bumpstop is semi compressed because of the way i parked. At level rideheight its barely touching the lca.


My buckets were pretty tweaked


How Robby helped



Lower rear shock mount gusset



Total Cost $850

I havent had a chance to go offroading but I cant feel any bumps on the road anymore. The whole 30 mile ride from his shop near las vegas speedway to my house in the southwest was a breeze. The bumpstops also control alot of the sway i gained from removing the sway bar. So far I'm impressed and wondered why I didnt get bumpstops sooner. This is the first time I did something suspension wise without going through PRG, I kind of have that "I cheated" feeling.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
they're a 4" bump but Robby machined them to be limited at 2" travel. Odd I know but the deal was good so I went for it. At max droop they dont touch and at ride height (no preload) they barely skim the arm. I'm no pro on suspension but I think it'll be okay.
 

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Its no longer working as a bumpstop but more as a shock. Ride will change, probable loss of uptravel, annoying clicking sound of bump hitting arm while driving everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well my coilbucket had a crack in it so I could handle a little uptravel loss if it means I wont loss a coilbucket in the future. I'm not really looking to jump the truck anymore. Since I'm probally moving to Jersey I dont see alot more Desert prerunning in my future.
 

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If your hitting the bump too soon, or right on the verge of riding on it, you lose the progressive effect it provides...It goes from being a secondary suspension to to working alongside the primary...

Did I just say the same thing twice?... :ftard:
 

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i plan on getting airbumps sometime after getting my coilovers & arms. just for my own knowledge - how long should the bumps be? and how do you determine the height to mount them at? ie: at ride height how big should the gap between lower arm & bump pad be? hope i made some kind of sense - thanks.
 

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there is no point in runing the bumps , because they are in closer to the frame rails then your shocks you might aswell have a 850 lbs spring, a bump stop is ment to work the last 2 to 4 inches of your travel or 1/8th of the travel in your case only having a limited amount of about 10 inches around 3 to 4 droop an 6 to 7 bump, an your bump stops are working about 5 to 6 inches or 1/2 of your total travel, if I were you I would check the charge I would lower the psi to about 100 to 120 its not realy ment to have bump stops unless you have a motor cage an you can mount them closer to the spindle or even on the upper arm if you mount them out farther out :without a motor cage you will get alot of frame flex :bump:
 

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haha, like the slow-mo part of the video kartman, sounds like you have a boat horn!!
 

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Those are radflo 2 inch stroke bumps. The big advantage over shortening others is the small body., makes it easier to fit, especially on a stock truck.
 

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I just had my SAW bumps installed and they are WAAAAAAAY too low. The striker on the bump is just about to contact the lower arm at ride height. Would you guys just take this back to the shop that did it and ask for them to fix it or what? I'll post a pic!
 

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