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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been looking at ways to pull the most travel out of these titans and there isnt any good way to do it unless you shorten the spindle. The longer spindle does no allow a lot of wheel travel before it limits out. The solution is to completely remove the coilbucket and upper mounts and remount the about 5" shorter onto the frame. The spindle is then shortened to the right lenght. A customer finally gave me the chance to built a kit like this and can not wait to see the results.

One of the lowers was just finished up today and I wanted to cycle it with just the spindle a 0* camber to see the travel numbers that was possible. It looked like it would be about 18" of travel roughtly but will not know for sure until the upper a arm mounts are made and in place.

Here are some pics of the progress.





 

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Looks good! I like how you made the mini-skid plate bolt up. Didn't see that before.

Go SDSU!!
 

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When the suspension cycles whats it do to the tie rods? Don't they bind up or at least put a ton of strain on the steering rack? Looks good btw. That lower arm is so clean. I welded a trellis for my mom's garden hahaha thats the extent of my fabrication.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
When the suspension cycles whats it do to the tie rods? Don't they bind up or at least put a ton of strain on the steering rack? Looks good btw. That lower arm is so clean. I welded a trellis for my mom's garden hahaha thats the extent of my fabrication.

The more extreme the angle the more stress is put on the rack which makes it go out much faster, especially with big tires. The pic taken is just about full droop but its about 2" below where the stock ball joint limits out so until a clevis is put on it will be strapped above that. Even with a clevis it will probably be strapped an inch or so before it reaches full droop to prevent the rack from wearing out.
 

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beautiful work.
 

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How much would something like this cost? Parts and labor included
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
We were finished up one side of the long travel this weekend and were able to pull 20.5" of travel with only 1.5* of camber change. We had it up to 23" of wheel travel at one point by messing around with different piviot points but there was too much camber change and had to compromise. The track width is is going to be about 91" It can not reach full bump in the pics because the tire hits the glass. The truck may be getting a clip to allow for more up travel. At full droop the bungs on the hiems are resting on the frame so the frame may either be cut there so it does not touch or will just be strapped out before that. The travel at that point puts the tierod at a high angle so it would be putting a lot of stress on the rack which most likely means it will be strapped before that.

Heres the pics



 

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How far above the frame are the stock upper pivot points?....Looks like yours are now about 1.5" or so...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
How far above the frame are the stock upper pivot points?....Looks like yours are now about 1.5" or so...

The stock ones were I believe 7.25" Each side was different since it had the front raised up to help control the forward roll of the truck.
 

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The stock ones were I believe 7.25" Each side was different since it had the front raised up to help control the forward roll of the truck.
I'd forgotten how high off the frame they are....Thanks...

I assume you put in the same amount of anti-dive as the stock dimensions....Does the Titan have anti-dive?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'd forgotten how high off the frame they are....Thanks...

I assume you put in the same amount of anti-dive as the stock dimensions....Does the Titan have anti-dive?
Yes the titans have anti dive. Stock has about a 2" difference in the lenght of the mounts, the anti dive. The kit I built has about a 1/2" of anti dive. I spoke with the guy that builds all the pro trucks suspension, as well as several other people very knowledgable with suspension just to get a second opinion, and he said it would have no problem with no anti dive. The bypass and coilover will be able to easily tune the suspension and there isnt any need for the offset in the upper mounts.
 

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This is really making me wish I had a 2WD... :(
 

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2 questions first Ill start kit looks great but why are you using blue stripe for the upper arms or is that just to get it right and jig then you will go to a min of DOM if not 4130? second what the turning radius it looks huge (not much room to turn). Is that a 1in uniball, maybe step up to a 1.5 for more turning room?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
2 questions first Ill start kit looks great but why are you using blue stripe for the upper arms or is that just to get it right and jig then you will go to a min of DOM if not 4130? second what the turning radius it looks huge (not much room to turn). Is that a 1in uniball, maybe step up to a 1.5 for more turning room?
What do you mean by blue stripe? Everthing on the upper is 4130. Its 1.5 .120 wall with 10 ga 4130 plate on top. The arm will be replaced eventually with a boxed upper.

We used a 1" mainly to save on cost and the gains would have been minimal. The misalignments for the uniball were machined down for a better turning radius. It should be very close to stock.
 

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This is really making me wish I had a 2WD... :(
I never use to think that 2WD was better..... Until i met prerunners...

How much would something like this cost? Parts and labor included
I second this question, and on another note, this looks bad @ss!!
 

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Nick the longtravel kit your building coming along nice!! Few questions: 1)What size is that custom spindle in your kit? Doesnt look like a 4in lift.. 2) You going to run coilover and bypass and what size length on your kings for that kit 8 or 10in? (3) With the travel numbers that your pulling on that kit, are you going to have to cut the inner fenders and start moving misc parts in the engine bay?
 

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That is sweet!! Great Job
 
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