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Discussion Starter #1
I had ordered a set of nitto terra grappler g2\'s from tire buyer and had sent to be installed (on my 2006 Nissan Titan king cab LE 2 wheel drive) at firestone. Firestone mounted balanced and performed alignment and right away I noticed my truck / tires giving back a lot more road noise hum than the previous 2 sets of same tires I had on the truck. I had the original grapplers before, not the new design g2 so though maybe that was the cause. When I got up to speed on the highway doing 60 plus it was extremely loud. I then noticed with a slight pull on the steering wheel to the right it completely stopped. Brought the truck back in and had them do another alignment (I opted for the payment for lifetime alignment and now don't know if was worth it) but they did do another alignment and checked the balancing of tires on the stock rims and said all that was fine what they did say was the problem is as follows. Again, I didn't notice anything until after having them put the new tires on, which could just be a coincident but either way now there is for sure issues (truck is 2006 with jsut over 90k miles, basically all highway never towed anything and am 2nd owner since 9k miles. All original suspension except I added the mini lift leveling kit from prg I believe it was and the stock rims with slightly larger tire size which is same size and brand and model tire I've had on there for years this is the 3rd set). Also to note, after taking back to firestone for their second alignment / diagnostics I then noticed a clunking sound sometimes when turning to the right.
Here is what they say the issues is and replacement parts (w/ part numbers) needed:
Front wheel bearing hub assembly on both sides DL515066
Tie rod ends (left inner) ES800216 ES800031
Loaded strut assemblies on both sides LS33-81151B
And brakes all around w/ QC1041 ceramic brake pads, YH145475P painted rotor CQPRT (two of them)

They wanted to do right then for over $2500. Ridiculous. I know basic wrenching around and have been doing on my own 60's mustangs and buddies cars and trucks and boats for years so can do this myself. What I would like to know from you guys on here with the Titan experience is with this mileage and usage of the truck and the symptoms does it sound like all those parts are the culprit and need replacing? And if so can you recommend the best route as to which parts brands and models to go with. I looked up there suggestion and they are like from autozone and the sort such as duralast. I don't want to get carried away but if replacing these things wouldn't mind going with a little bit better than original stock and making the truck ride a little nice as she's with me for the long haul. All else with the truck and engine have been awesome and lasting great. Only other upgrade I did was the k&N cold air intake and the JBL catback single exhaust.
 

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Might be worth getting a second opinion. Sounds to me like they are taking a shotgun approach at fixing a specific problem. On the other hand, if maintenance has been neglected, that stuff could need replacing. Stock rotors and pads on these earlier models are garbage to begin with. With that said, here are the options you asked for. These are just my opinion on which brands I would go with.

Front wheel bearing hub assembly on both sides DL515066

Moog or Timken would be a good choice here. I like Timken and just replaced both of my fronts at 117,000 miles. The new ones will come with new wheel speed sensors, but keep your old ones just in case the new ones don't play nice. I had no issues though.
Amazon link (Double-check the fitment for your 2006 Titan)


Tie rod ends (left inner) ES800216 ES800031

Here's a link to the OEM inner tie rod for your 2006 from Courtesy Nissan. (I think it is usually the outer tie rod that goes bad, though).
Courtesy tie rod

Loaded strut assemblies on both sides LS33-81151B

Bilstein seems to be the favorite for struts. I have the 4600's up front. Direct fit and doesn't change the ride height. If you want some adjustability, then the 5100's give you a 2" range (I think). I don't believe many people choose to go with new coils. Here's the link to RockAuto for the 4600's for your 2006 Titan: (In the Heavy Duty section)
Rockauto link struts

And brakes all around w/ QC1041 ceramic brake pads, YH145475P painted rotor CQPRT (two of them)

Brakes are definitely a preference thing, but Akebono pads are excellent and here's a link (All pads) to Rockauto's selection for your 2006. Scroll all the way down to the Performance section for the Akebono's.

As for rotors, I think a fair number of folks like the Power Stop. Here's a
RockAuto selection for all rotors for your 2006. Power Stop are at the bottom in the Performance section.

Additionally, I would have a look at your front swaybar bushings. They are cheap to replace at about $6 each from the dealer and can make a definite difference in steering wheel feel.

If they look like this (Top left pic), they are shot.

542539


The hubs can be a bit of a bear to get off sometimes, so make sure you are prepared for that. Here's a couple of videos that can be very helpful:



 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you, that is an amazing amount of help and I do appreciate your time in sharing that. I am looking to keep this truck for well, forever lol and don't mind spend a little extra for upgrade over stock oem equipment, would that change any of your recommendations on what to get as replacements and or what to do and install?
As for the struts, I do have the 'mini lift / leveling kit' installed so would I need the 5100s or would the 4600s still fit?
From day one I always though the brakes were not powerful enough for this truck; I am eager to upgrade for better stopping bower for sure.
On the that note, I have had for a long time one noticeable issue when braking and do not know what it is, but if the brakes are pressed too quickly the truck almost bucks and slides forward and hear very loud noises in the front end area and the hole front dives down; could this be the abs or what?
 

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I'm like you in that I do upgrades with the thought that this will probably be my last vehicle and I am putting in what I feel are the best quality parts. I stand by all the parts/brands as I mentioned above. I have upgraded/replaced all of them (except the tie rod) in my 07 Armada LE. My rotors are from a company called PowerSlot, which I don't believe is in business anymore. I replaced my rotors and pads 9 years ago and they are still in great shape. I have read plenty of good reviews of the Power Stop rotors and you can't go wrong with Akebono pads.

You would be surprised at how worn swaybar components can affect your ride. As I was researching it to do the swaybar bushings, I also decided to change out the swaybar end links as they were only $32 each from Moog and are greasable. Those are in the bottom row of that pic up above. Moog Part # K750146 but validate the part number for your 06 Titan. They come with a minimum amount of grease in them, so be sure to load them. I did that before install.

Hard to tell what the loud noises are. Could be shot struts. Could be worn swaybar bushings and your swaybar is rattling up against the frame. Could be tierod related. Those swaybar bushings are easy to check. Just turn your wheels out and look in from the front of the tire. The bushings are easily visible. Note that the bolts that hold these on have fine threads and can easily be cross-threaded if you you're not squared up. If you install these, hand thread them in ¼" - ½" before you use big boy tools.

PB Blaster and a good impact wrench would be beneficial on loosening bolts/nuts on the wheel hubs, swaybar bushings and end links. Otherwise it could be a struggle.

As far as going with the Bilstein 4600's or 5100's because of your lift, I don't know. I know next to nothing about lifts. You'll have to see if one of the other knowledgeable guys pipes in about that here. If they don't, I would post a separate question regarding that specifically.

The reason I upgraded all that front suspension stuff (Swaybar bushings, endlinks and wheel hubs) were because I had a shimmy in my steering wheel from about 70-75mph. I'm talking that it looked like I had a bad case of Parkinson's in my hand that was on the wheel. I replaced them all at the same time, so not sure exactly which component was "the fix", but I no longer have that issue and the steering has tightened up quite nicely.

Edit: And a sidenote on doing the tie rod... when you take the outer tie rod off, count how many spins it takes to get it off and put it back on the new inner rod with the same amount of spins so you are at least close to being aligned. You'll need to get a wheel alignment after you install that new tie rod.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So I'm going to do the Bilstein 5100's 24197649 up front (I have the prg 1.5" spacers installed and will retain those so prob will put these on the lowest setting?) and using the 24186773 on the rear.
Ther's a ton of info about the shocks and brakes on here and seem to find a lot of contradicting statements about fitment from one person to the next so kept going back and forth weather or not to use new springs with these shocks and what adjustment because of my lift blocks; or too remove those spacer/lift blocks up front, a bit confised now but I guess will see..
I'm also going with the Timken wheel hub bearing assembly you suggested SP500701 and I am going to do all moog for the suspension stuff like inner and outer tie rods, sway bar end links, and sway bar bushings. I think I also will go with the brake rotors front and rear by Power Stop but do you think I should also upgrade to a larger or different caliper or just re-use the originals with the new pads on them?
Also, any vendors like rock auto or summit etc offer discounts to members from here?
On a bit off topic, also looking for new headlights while I'm at it, any recommendations on brand halo etc? Thank you
 

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For the swaybar bushings, I considered going with Moog, but when I viewed the pics of what they had to offer, they still had the slit on the flat part that goes up against the frame. Not an ideal design IMO. The OEM bushings used to have that on the flat as well, but have since moved the slit to the corner, so I went with OEM.

Regarding rotors and calipers, you'll have to do your homework on those for the Titan.Keep in mind that I own an Armada. I don't know what year they went to a larger rotor, but they did. If you upgrade to the larger one, match the caliper accordingly. Otherwise, stick with stock size and just replace the pads.

You should probably read through this thread because I believe it involves more than just going to larger rotors/calipers:

 

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Hey! Saw your post. 2004 Titan 4x4 CC LE. Bought new in July '04. Have 127K on it and it needs some TLC. Garaged everyday of its existence. I totally 100% agree w tchjts1 on everything he said. It was actually like reading a post of my own. Only difference is my truck had the Parkinson's, not me. Lol. I can turn a wrench like you but I had never disassembled my front end until now. Had the horrible shimmy, judder which seems like it started early. Uneven pad wear, humming from wheels. Finally was done..done ..done. Took me a couple weeks to do the driver's side, working on it mostly on weekends in a limited fashion. But after I figured out all the tricks I stripped the passenger side down to the bare control arm this past Sunday from noon to 5 and made the Superbowl party. Lol. I went w Billy 4600s on sale @ RA, new KYB Kit SM5700 Strut Mount Kit $7 each @ Amazon and Moog Strut mount K160344 $22 each @ Amazon. Kept OEM coils, but I may change if I don't like after re-assembly and test drive. Have a set of PRG 2" spacers on the way. Greg promised them this week. The coils are in excellent shape so it's hard to toss them just yet. I was told the OEM hubs were made by Timken (misinformed?) and I've seen a couple less than stellar stories about the Timkens (might be a high and low end Timken hub difference from prices I saw, but not positive) and the ABS sensor failures on the Moogs. So I went with SKF from RA. Brother in law is Engineer for SMC and recommended SKF. From limited research i discovered that SKF invented most, if not all, the technology that's in our hub assembly, so that puts them first in my book until they show me different. Mind you the old hubs are stubborn to remove. I used the trick where you remove a couple lugs, insert two 8" X 1/2" bolts with nuts and washers and start cranking evenly until the hub pops out. Easy Peasy! You will damage the splash shield/baffle plate but mine was completely rusted anyways. I bought 2 new OEM ones for $18 each @ Nissanpartsdeal.com. No aftermarket manufacturers that i have found. So anyways, i got the Power Stop Z36 Calipers/Rotors/Pads combo from RA. I got new Moog Problem Solver sway bar links $16 each @ Amazon. OEM sway bar bushings w new corner slit design from Ebay $20, new Beck Arnley brake hoses from RA. Oops! Don't buy the Beck Arnley from RA like I did and have to return them for another. Not made to specs. Trust me! New CVs!! I bought Cardone HD CV Axles from RA which were leaking when they arrived. So they went back and I got the new DTAs in the pic (Lost faith in Cardone when I saw the zip ties over the end caps and was told they just started putting those on. And they still didn't keep the end caps from coming loose and soaking the box with grease! (Hmm...they need zip ties to keep the end caps on during shipping?!? Next plz!! ) RA customer service was awesome about it. Took them back and apologized and even offered to take back the 4600s but I kept them, even tho lots of people prefer the 5100s. Personal preference. Finally Moog Problem Solver lower ball joints K80647 from Amazon for $45 each and free shipping obviously. I have not bought Upper Ball Joints yet bc I'm waiting to see if I want to replace the UCAs with something beefier.

Anyways, If you get stuck during disassembly or want some foreknowledge before breaking out the breaker bar (you'll need a big one unless you have one Bad *** impact wrench) PM me and ask away. Those 15 yr old bolts fought me for every thread i turned. (Indiana weather). Good luck!

Tim
 

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I will add this. NO REPUTABLE shop would of installed new tires and performed TWO alignments on a blown front end! The tech should of checked all of the front end components first! Being a certified alignment tech myself i cringe reading stuff like this. You SHOULD be reimbursed for the alignments and that whole job can be done for $500 in your yard in about 4-5 hours on jack stands. Sorry to hear you are dealing with a shitty repair shop :(

Find another shop to do your alignments and tires from now on!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I agree on the ship. They should’ve told me when took old tires off and went to mount the new tires that there were suspension issues needing addressing. I think I may try to contact Firestone and get a refund on the lifetime alignment plan which was around 230$, but maybe I should wait until after I install the new parts because was planning on bringing there for them to just do the alignment again after all new parts are installed since it’s alrwady paid for...
 

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Hey! Saw your post. 2004 Titan 4x4 CC LE. Bought new in July '04. Have 127K on it and it needs some TLC. Garaged everyday of its existence. I totally 100% agree w tchjts1 on everything he said. It was actually like reading a post of my own. Only difference is my truck had the Parkinson's, not me. Lol. I can turn a wrench like you but I had never disassembled my front end until now. Had the horrible shimmy, judder which seems like it started early. Uneven pad wear, humming from wheels. Finally was done..done ..done. Took me a couple weeks to do the driver's side, working on it mostly on weekends in a limited fashion. But after I figured out all the tricks I stripped the passenger side down to the bare control arm this past Sunday from noon to 5 and made the Superbowl party. Lol. I went w Billy 4600s on sale @ RA, new KYB Kit SM5700 Strut Mount Kit $7 each @ Amazon and Moog Strut mount K160344 $22 each @ Amazon. Kept OEM coils, but I may change if I don't like after re-assembly and test drive. Have a set of PRG 2" spacers on the way. Greg promised them this week. The coils are in excellent shape so it's hard to toss them just yet. I was told the OEM hubs were made by Timken (misinformed?) and I've seen a couple less than stellar stories about the Timkens (might be a high and low end Timken hub difference from prices I saw, but not positive) and the ABS sensor failures on the Moogs. So I went with SKF from RA. Brother in law is Engineer for SMC and recommended SKF. From limited research i discovered that SKF invented most, if not all, the technology that's in our hub assembly, so that puts them first in my book until they show me different. Mind you the old hubs are stubborn to remove. I used the trick where you remove a couple lugs, insert two 8" X 1/2" bolts with nuts and washers and start cranking evenly until the hub pops out. Easy Peasy! You will damage the splash shield/baffle plate but mine was completely rusted anyways. I bought 2 new OEM ones for $18 each @ Nissanpartsdeal.com. No aftermarket manufacturers that i have found. So anyways, i got the Power Stop Z36 Calipers/Rotors/Pads combo from RA. I got new Moog Problem Solver sway bar links $16 each @ Amazon. OEM sway bar bushings w new corner slit design from Ebay $20, new Beck Arnley brake hoses from RA. Oops! Don't buy the Beck Arnley from RA like I did and have to return them for another. Not made to specs. Trust me! New CVs!! I bought Cardone HD CV Axles from RA which were leaking when they arrived. So they went back and I got the new DTAs in the pic (Lost faith in Cardone when I saw the zip ties over the end caps and was told they just started putting those on. And they still didn't keep the end caps from coming loose and soaking the box with grease! (Hmm...they need zip ties to keep the end caps on during shipping?!? Next plz!! ) RA customer service was awesome about it. Took them back and apologized and even offered to take back the 4600s but I kept them, even tho lots of people prefer the 5100s. Personal preference. Finally Moog Problem Solver lower ball joints K80647 from Amazon for $45 each and free shipping obviously. I have not bought Upper Ball Joints yet bc I'm waiting to see if I want to replace the UCAs with something beefier.

Anyways, If you get stuck during disassembly or want some foreknowledge before breaking out the breaker bar (you'll need a big one unless you have one Bad *** impact wrench) PM me and ask away. Those 15 yr old bolts fought me for every thread i turned. (Indiana weather). Good luck!

Tim
Thank you for the helpful info. I did have a few questions if you don’t mind answering here as other members may find helpful also.
Why did you chose those shocks plus the leveling spacer over the 5100’s adjusted to max 2” for the same effect? I am going with the 5100s and will have adjusted all the way for that 2” of lift with using the stock replacement moog coil springs (not tge stiffer 4wd ones) and am removing my PRG leveling/lift spacer rings as Greg on his website and other posts on here say can not use both those together as will cause clearance issues.
I really don’t want my truck any lower than it is right now which is very nicely level with stock shocks struts and coils and the PEG 2.5 front 1” rear blocks. I think leaving the 1” blocks in rear and the new 5200s adjusted to max up front with new coils (stock replacement) should maintain that? I wouldnt mind going a little taller but don’t want to get carried away with parts and cost. If I can use those shocks with the prg leveling spacer please do let me know and then I will think about doing that and adding new leave springs to raid the rear to match as that’s what I really would like to do...

For the wheel hub bearing assembly I think I’ll go with the Timken but will look into your recommendation too first.
Did you have any issues wit the Moog strut mount plate kit as I see others saying doesn’t fit right and to just re use the original?

Good tip on the splash shields I’ll do the same thank you.

Do you really need to replace the lower control arm ball joint or was it just done because already working on the front?

Same for the upper control arm ball joint or entire assembly, does this really need to be done or just kind of doing bc already working the front end?

I think I’m doing those brakes as well but not sure if will do the calipers or keep the original calipers; are new brake lines a must either way? And if so I which ones did you end up getting that were correct?

I’m thinking of using what you did for the sway bar bushings and end links but might go with the PRG ones as they seem pretty nice upgrade.

What is RA you refer to where got most your parts?

And are the CV’s just for 4wd front ends?
 

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Hey! I can't even raise my head w/o 2 glasses of coffee. Yes, glasses. Lol. Well, you really made me think tonight. I asked myself, " Self, why did you buy those 4600s AND $150 worth of Billet Spacers , which still haven't been shipped from PRG Products, over those zinc coated, shiny 5100s?" See...I've been doing my homework tonight. Well, up until 2 months ago I didn't know much about lifting the truck. And I have a 7 foot garage door, like most people, and I didn't want to have to start leaving my 15 yr old truck outside just to gain some height. I also want to replace the rims and tires but before all that I had to get Maximillian, Max for short, back together. Easy answer is i thought it sounded like the 5100s gave you a stiffer ride on higher perches, and I am going for that 2017 + Armada ride. Allow me to digress briefly...my sister has the Platinum '17 Armada (bc they loved borrowing my Titan!! ) and she's as farsighted as one can be and still have a license. So one day after she picked me up bc Max got rear ended sitting in traffic....by some lady who cant see s**t either bc her cell phone is plastered to her nose!! Sorry, didn't mean to go Chris Farley there! Lol. So anyways.. she hit every pothole on the way back to my house. And don't you know I hardly felt any of them!! No Joke! Ok, so I kept reading on here that a lot of guys are setting their 5100s to the lowest perch and it was perfect! 4600s and 5100s are IDENTICAL at stock height. And the higher they went most were saying that it was a stiffer ride. So, I was scratching my beard and saying to myself, "Self, why pay for shiny zinc coated adjustable Billy's only to end up on the lowest perch?" "Why not stack a spacer on top and level it out and keep the cushy ride and no geometry problems, and no CBC?" "And, if by chance you raise it so much that you hit the bottom of the garage door pulling in you can always take out the spacer and cuss and put it on OfferUp." Lol. Ok, so seriously now.. I did learn that I might also be pushing the LCA down and preventing the full upward travel of the wheel. But I tow and drive to work and pull my bass boat and that's as Off Road as I ever get. However, in my defense, my son and I did go over some parking blocks one winter, in 4x4 mode of course, taking a "shortcut" through a church parking lot when the road was blocked bc of construction. My son was 10 then and still affectionately thinks I'm a monster trucker, which of course I am...in his eyes. Lol.
So after reading and watching vids on 5100 adjustment, which is ideally for "lifted" trucks, although they do advertise that the 5100s with coilovers also can pro-vide the lift for you, but arguably you start to stiffen the action on the Billy when you adjust up, according to many writers here on TT. But to be completely honest, I'm an existentialist...meaning...you can tell me that's an awesome, internal organs re-organizer of a roller coaster, but until I've ridden it, it's just a good story. So, since you have already done what I was planning to attempt with spacers, AND, after reading your idea of changing out the springs and raising the Billy's to give you the ideal lift, I am seriously considering revising my plan. And dang don't those zinc coated shiny 5100s look nice! If you're faster than I am at completing projects (hopefully), let me know if it works because I hope it does. I can still return my 4600s to RA for another week and a half or so.

I hope you took my humor well bc when it comes to working on the truck I am very serious about putting the best parts I can affford on it and making it the most reliable and comfortable truck I can...bc I love my truck...as we all do. AMEN! And I'm serious about returning the 4600s and using your setup. I figure even if i have to use the lowest perch for now, I could at some point in the future upgrade the UCAs and coils and add blocks and maybe still squeeze in under the garage door since they're adjustable.

About hubs...the SKFs are a total experiment. Haven't heard anything bad about them, so I say to myself, "Self, why not try them?" The only hubs that were more expensive were the Raybestos and FAGs on RA, so I hope I get what I paid for. In 5 or 10K I'll send an update and hopefully I'm not kicking myself. If I had not had the SKF recommendation I would have spent the extra dough and got the Raybestos. Why? Simple. Raybestos = Lifetime Warranty, Moog= 36,000 miles or 3 yr Warranty, SKF=3yr or 45,000 mile Warranty, and last and certainly least in my book, Timkens=12 month Warranty!! 12 freaking months! That's all?!?! Sorry, but those are HUBS!! Ya know the thing that turns all day every day and houses the CV axles and has attached to it those very expensive tires and rims. And all they can offer is a measly 12 month warranty?! Nope, not me. If they can't get behind their own product I can't either. As a matter of fact I probably should have anted up for the Raybestos. Ugh!! Definitely not FAGs either, another 12 month warranty...for the most expensive hub offered! Communism is what it is!! Lol. Ok. Look... go with something that will go with you. While I love the Moog products and have their links and strut mounts those wiring issues on their hubs are just a black mark that they should seriously address. Anyway...

Ok, strut mounts! Holy crap! I had not heard that about the strut mounts. I will definitely check the fitment in the LCA and upper mount and see. But you know if I scratch the yellow paint on those Billys there ain't no going back then! Can you direct me to the information you read please? TY!! I definitely cannot reuse my old ones. The nut almost did not come off of one of the mounts on the passenger side. So they're rusty scrap metal now. Unless you're in AZ where nothing rusts....ever! Lol. Good thing those strut mounts came from Amazon. Returns are usually fairly easy with them. So who do I use if not the god Moog?

Upper Ball Joints: First my truck is 15yrs old...all original. Once you disassemble your knuckle give the ole upper ball joint a wiggle. If it has less resistance than a 1980s Magnavox Odyssey gaming system controller, or a speed bag on a swivel, then it's time to replace. Mine are wiggling more than a uvula being yodeled. Lol. Also, disconnected from the knuckle, put the nut back on the upper ball joint and pull down and push up on the threaded post. If you feel slop in it then you know it's time.

Lower ball joints: I disconnected everything from the knuckle, except the lower ball joint bc well...the darn thing has grown steel tentacles and is in love with the knuckle now...permanently in love! If you can swing the knuckle around like that speed bag, or if, with LCA stabilized, you notice a kachunk when you lift up on the knuckle, then it's shot and just has to be divorced from the knuckle. Instead of a lawyer I got a regular ol carpenter hammer and annulled their marriage in 3 or 4 swift blows. I used a rubber strap with hooks at the ends to wrap around the top of the knuckle. I put the knuckle back in the top ball joint but left the nut off. It doesn't flop around like this. Remove the pinch bolt at the bottom first. Nasty bugger that is big and has a thick shank that provides plenty of opportunity to rust itself to the knuckle. Get it out with a breaker bar, impact wrench, whatever, then just turn the knuckle all the way one way and expose the top of that ball joint. It comes out easier than you would ever think. If you use a 5lb hammer on it you won't get it out. Too wide of a head. Carpenter hammer brought down dead center is magic. Afterwards you'll have a knuckle hanging from the strap and in it the ball joint, unless you live in AZ and just sweet talked it out. I put the knuckle in my vise upside down so I could see the end of the ball joint. I slapped two small pieces of 2x4 on either side and crushed it in the vice. That wood crunching in the vise around that knuckle told it I was on a mission! Then I took my 1/2" , 6" long impact extension and used it like a punch. This is when you get the 5# hammer and knock the ball joint back through the knuckle. Sounds complicated. It's not. You'll be amazed at how easily it comes out.

Sway bar bushings: I wanted the polyurethane. I looked everywhere for those that didn't require having to change out the brackets and had the opening on the side or corner. No dice. At work today I looked at PRGs website and saw the red ones for the Titan for $24. I zoomed in and it looks like the slit is on the side, which is good, but they are smooth and "recessed". Cant think of the word. Anyways, it looks like they would require a different bracket to hold (mold over) their smooth, flat outer shape. OEMs are humped I guess and so is the OEM bracket. But they are 34 mm and will work perfectly with a new bracket. I like the new OEMs. Once I had them in my hands I was pleasantly surprised at how well they were made. Very sturdy. Did you see the note under the polyurethane bushings on Greg's site? That washer trick he refers to is interesting. Are you going to try it? Oh btw....if you talk to Greg could you ask him to please send my 2" Titan spacers, not Xterra spacers. Lol

Gotta get some sleep. Coffee is waiting to perk at 4:45 am.

Even with all the bruised elbows and mashed fingers ( just one) i wouldn't let anyone else work on my truck. Can I get a here, here? Albeit those fine folks at Andy Mohr Nissan in Avon, IN who are gonna do my alignment afterwards. And they are gonna earn their pay that day. Lol

Good luck turning wrenches. Please help me pick betweeen the 4600s and 5100s. I think you're swaying me towards those shiny zinc coated babies!

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That is a lot of good info tg
Hey! I can't even raise my head w/o 2 glasses of coffee. Yes, glasses. Lol. Well, you really made me think tonight. I asked myself, " Self, why did you buy those 4600s AND $150 worth of Billet Spacers , which still haven't been shipped from PRG Products, over those zinc coated, shiny 5100s?" See...I've been doing my homework tonight. Well, up until 2 months ago I didn't know much about lifting the truck. And I have a 7 foot garage door, like most people, and I didn't want to have to start leaving my 15 yr old truck outside, like my neighbor, just to gain some height. I also want to replace the rims and tires but before all that I had to get Maximillian, Max for short, back together. Easy answer is i thought it sounded like the 5100s gave you a stiffer ride on higher perches, and I am going for that 2017 + Armada ride. Allow me to digress briefly...my sister has the Platinum '17 Armada (bc they loved borrowing my Titan!! ) and she's as farsighted as one can be and still have a license. So one day after she picked me up bc Max got rear ended sitting in traffic....by some lady who cant see s**t either bc her cell phone is plastered to her nose!! Sorry, didn't mean to go Chris Farley there! Lol. So anyways.. she hit every pothole on the way back to my house. And don't you know I hardly felt any of them!! No Joke! Ok, so I kept reading on here that a lot of guys are setting their 5100s to the lowest perch and it was perfect! 4600s and 5100s are IDENTICAL at stock height. And the higher they went most were saying that it was a stiffer ride. So, I was scratching my beard and saying to myself, "Self, why pay for shiny zinc coated adjustable Billy's only to end up on the lowest perch?" "Why not stack a spacer on top and level it out and keep the cushy ride and no geometry problems, and no CBC?" "And, if by chance you raise it so much that you hit the bottom of the garage door pulling in you can always take out the spacer and cuss and put it on OfferUp." Lol. Ok, so seriously now.. I did learn that I might also be pushing the LCA down and preventing the full upward travel of the wheel. But I tow and drive to work and pull my bass boat and that's as Off Road as I ever get. However, in my defense, my son and I did go over some parking blocks one winter, in 4x4 mode of course, taking a "shortcut" through a church parking lot when the road was blocked bc of construction. My son was 10 then and still affectionately thinks I'm a monster trucker, which of course I am...in his eyes. Lol.
So after reading and watching vids on 5100 adjustment, which is ideally for "lifted" trucks, although they do advertise that the 5100s with coilovers also can pro-vide the lift for you, but arguably you start to stiffen the action on the Billy when you adjust up, according to many writers here on TT. But to be completely honest, I'm an existentialist...meaning...you can tell me that's an awesome, internal organs re-organizer of a roller coaster, but until I've ridden it, it's just a good story. So, since you have already done what I was planning to attempt with spacers, AND, after reading your idea of changing out the springs and raising the Billy's to give you the ideal lift, I am seriously considering revising my plan. And dang don't those zinc coated shiny 5100s look nice! If you're faster than I am at completing projects (hopefully), let me know if it works because I hope it does. I can still return my 4600s to RA for another week and a half or so.

I hope you took my humor well bc when it comes to working on the truck I am very serious about putting the best parts I can affford on it and making it the most reliable and comfortable truck I can...bc I love my truck...as we all do. AMEN! And I'm serious about returning the 4600s and using your setup. I figure even if i have to use the lowest perch for now, I could at some point in the future upgrade the UCAs and coils and add blocks and maybe still squeeze in under the garage door since they're adjustable.

About hubs...the SKFs are a total experiment. Haven't heard anything bad about them, so I say to myself, "Self, why not try them?" The only hubs that were more expensive were the Raybestos and FAGs on RA, so I hope I get what I paid for. In 5 or 10K I'll send an update and hopefully I'm not kicking myself. If I had not had the SKF recommendation I would have spent the extra dough and got the Raybestos. Why? Simple. Raybestos = Lifetime Warranty, Moog= 36,000 miles or 3 yr Warranty, SKF=3yr or 45,000 mile Warranty, and last and certainly least in my book, Timkens=12 month Warranty!! 12 freaking months! That's all?!?! Sorry, but those are HUBS!! Ya know the thing that turns all day every day and houses the CV axles and has attached to it those very expensive tires and rims. And all they can offer is a measly 12 month warranty?! Nope, not me. If they can't get behind their own product I can't either. As a matter of fact I probably should have anted up for the Raybestos. Ugh!! Definitely not FAGs either, another 12 month warranty...for the most expensive hub offered! Communism is what it is!! Lol. Ok. Look... go with something that will go with you. While I love the Moog products and have their links and strut mounts those wiring issues on their hubs are just a black mark that they should seriously address. Anyway...

Ok, strut mounts! Holy crap! I had not heard that about the strut mounts. I will definitely check the fitment in the LCA and upper mount and see. But you know if I scratch the yellow paint on those Billys there ain't no going back then! Can you direct me to the information you read please? TY!! I definitely cannot reuse my old ones. The nut almost did not come off of one of the mounts on the passenger side. So they're rusty scrap metal now. Unless you're in AZ where nothing rusts....ever! Lol. Good thing those strut mounts came from Amazon. Returns are usually fairly easy with them. So who do I use if not the god Moog?

Upper Ball Joints: First my truck is 15yrs old...all original. Once you disassemble your knuckle give the ole upper ball joint a wiggle. If it has less resistance than a 1980s Magnavox Odyssey gaming system controller, or a speed bag on a swivel, then it's time to replace. Mine are wiggling more than a uvula being yodeled. Lol. Also, disconnected from the knuckle, put the nut back on the upper ball joint and pull down and push up on the threaded post. If you feel slop in it then you know it's time.

Lower ball joints: I disconnected everything from the knuckle, except the lower ball joint bc well...the darn thing has grown steel tentacles and is in love with the knuckle now...permanently in love! If you can swing the knuckle around like that speed bag, or if, with LCA stabilized, you notice a kachunk when you lift up on the knuckle, then it's shot and just has to be divorced from the knuckle. Instead of a lawyer I got a regular ol carpenter hammer and annulled their marriage in 3 or 4 swift blows. I used a rubber strap with hooks at the ends to wrap around the top of the knuckle. I put the knuckle back in the top ball joint but left the nut off. It doesn't flop around like this. Remove the pinch bolt at the bottom first. Nasty bugger that is big and has a thick shank that provides plenty of opportunity to rust itself to the knuckle. Get it out with a breaker bar, impact wrench, whatever, then just turn the knuckle all the way one way and expose the top of that ball joint. It comes out easier than you would ever think. If you use a 5lb hammer on it you won't get it out. Too wide of a head. Carpenter hammer brought down dead center is magic. Afterwards you'll have a knuckle hanging from the strap and in it the ball joint, unless you live in AZ and just sweet talked it out. I put the knuckle in my vise upside down so I could see the end of the ball joint. I slapped two small pieces of 2x4 on either side and crushed it in the vice. That wood crunching in the vise around that knuckle told it I was on a mission! Then I took my 1/2" , 6" long impact extension and used it like a punch. This is when you get the 5# hammer and knock the ball joint back through the knuckle. Sounds complicated. It's not. You'll be amazed at how easily it comes out.

Sway bar bushings: I wanted the polyurethane. I looked everywhere for those that didn't require having to change out the brackets and had the opening on the side or corner. No dice. At work today I looked at PRGs website and saw the red ones for the Titan for $24. I zoomed in and it looks like the slit is on the side, which is good, but they are smooth and "recessed". Cant think of the word. Anyways, it looks like they would require a different bracket to hold (mold over) their smooth, flat outer shape. OEMs are humped I guess and so is the OEM bracket. But they are 34 mm and will work perfectly with a new bracket. I like the new OEMs. Once I had them in my hands I was pleasantly surprised at how well they were made. Very sturdy. Did you see the note under the polyurethane bushings on Greg's site? That washer trick he refers to is interesting. Are you going to try it? Oh btw....if you talk to Greg could you ask him to please send my 2" Titan spacers, not Xterra spacers. Lol

Gotta get some sleep. Coffee is waiting to perk at 4:45 am.

Even with all the bruised elbows and mashed fingers ( just one) i wouldn't let anyone else work on my truck. Can I get a here, here? Albeit those fine folks at Andy Mohr Nissan in Avon, IN who are gonna do my alignment afterwards. And they are gonna earn their pay that day. Lol

Good luck turning wrenches. Please help me pick betweeen the 4600s and 5100s. I think you're swaying me towards those shiny zinc coated babies!

Tim
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That is a lot of good info thank you. I won’t be doing this for about 2 more weeks but am leaning toward the rough country UCA with my 2.5” prg spacer I have on now and the 5100s, just waiting on Greg to see if that will work as his kit he sells uses the 2” spacer. With that I will leave the rear block spacer and see how it sits. If down I the front I’ll get the taller block to swap out in the front. I’ll probsbly still go with Timken as see a lot have used them without complaints. And I’ll go moog for the all the tie rods and maybe sway bar link ends although still thinking about the prg ones they look well built. I’ll keep you posted thoug once done
 

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Not sure if it's been mentioned yet, but if your replacing the hubs, you might consider doing the whole '08 hubs, brakes, bigger rotors and caliper upgrade while your there. As long as you have 18" wheels (17" won't clear the new calipers) it solves the warping rotor problems with all factory part numbers. Parts list and "how to" is well documented on here. I did it to my '05 at 170,000 and I'm at 267,000 with no more warped rotors!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Not sure if it's been mentioned yet, but if your replacing the hubs, you might consider doing the whole '08 hubs, brakes, bigger rotors and caliper upgrade while your there. As long as you have 18" wheels (17" won't clear the new calipers) it solves the warping rotor problems with all factory part numbers. Parts list and "how to" is well documented on here. I did it to my '05 at 170,000 and I'm at 267,000 with no more warped rotors!
That’s a thought I may do. Do you have the link to which thread on here that has all the part numbers needed? Thank you.
 
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