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Front parking light circuit or wire tap?

5209 Views 11 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  EvilPeppard, 
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I bought some PIAA 4000 lights. They have a set of fogs, a set of driving plus two small marker lights you attach to the turn signal or parking light circuit. The wires are quite small and the wiring diagram shows you attach the wires directly to either the turn signal wires or parking lights.

Where is the easiest spot to access this circuit? I looked at the fuse panel, but I don't see one for either circuit where I could use an "Add-a-Circuit". Should I just try to tap into the signal wires under the hood on each side? If so, where is the easiest place to try and access these wires?

Thanks for any feedback.
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/bump for any thoughts.

Is there a circuit in the fuse block that goes on and off with the lights? I'd prefer that option over cutting into wires under the hood.
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Carbeaux
EvilPeppard said:
/bump for any thoughts.

Is there a circuit in the fuse block that goes on and off with the lights? I'd prefer that option over cutting into wires under the hood.
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Then the light fuse would be the one you want! :D I don't have access to my home comp, so can't tell you which one that is though. Or if it might be in the inside box even.

And for the record, the add a circuit would be preferable to tapping into the wire when possible, IMHO. Keeps the integrity of the wire intact as opposed to a scotch lok type connection.
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bestatchess
How many watts are the lights?
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Carbeaux
bestatchess said:
How many watts are the lights?
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Good question. I was basing my answers to him assuming (I know, not the best thing to do) that this was to trigger a relay.
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bestatchess said:
How many watts are the lights?
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Excellent question. I've learned the hard way (blown fuses, melted wires), on my off-road vehicles running both spots and fogs that the only way to go is to use solenoids for each set of lights, run the "hot" side of each directly to your battery (with appropriate separate fuses for the amp load for your lights) and to run the "switch" side of the solenoids to a separate switch under the dash or a new switch placed in place of the unused switch covers you have.

It is usually not a good idea to team these lights up with either your high or low beam circuits. Better to run them on separate switches. This also lets you use them with the engine off, or all electrics off.

BTW, my CJ-5 currently has no auxillaries (I kept breaking them, even with wire covers). Instead I'm running non-DOT European code offroad crystal lens 7 inch round lights in the factory headlight locations. They are 90 watts each on low beam and 130 watts each on high beam. They are wired as above. I can have both highs and lows on at the same time, or selectively. I had to upgrade the alternator to handle the battery drain owith low/high on at the same time. But they would not fit our trucks anyway.

Just a thought.
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bestatchess said:
How many watts are the lights?
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The marker lights are 5 watts each and there are two per circuit, so 10 watts each is more likely.

The lights I am referring to are the PIAA P-4000's (check my sig for pictures):
http://www.performancecenter.com/products?sf5=P-4000+Quad+Beam&category_name=Lighting&clearance=0&step=2&category_name_sub=Auxiliary+Lighting&sf4=PIAA&universal=0

I have the main beams already installed and wired correctly, I just don't have the little 5 watt bulbs in the center hooked up. All the instructions say is to hook up to parking light, or hook up to turn signal circuit so they blink with signals (which would be pretty cool).

Thanks for the help and let me know what you think.

P.S. Bestatchess, aren't you in Highlands Ranch, CO? I live in Centennial ;)
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I suppose if I really wanted to, I could run wires all the way to the back of the truck and tap into the taillight wire on the tow pigtail.

Any ideas which wire is the the one for the taillights back there?

Thanks again for all the replies.
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bestatchess
My guess is that it would be o.k. to tap up front for 10 watts. Disclaimer: I am frequently wrong. My theory: 10 watts / 12 volts = .833 amps, which I would think is a small enough added load.

Regarding tapping at the tow pigtail: (1) mine has a wiring diagram on the hinged plastic cover (2) once you locate the correct wire, it could also probably be tapped up front somewhere as I assume the circuit has fuse/relay in the underhood boxes.

I live in Larkspur.
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bestatchess said:
My guess is that it would be o.k. to tap up front for 10 watts. Disclaimer: I am frequently wrong. My theory: 10 watts / 12 volts = .833 amps, which I would think is a small enough added load.

Regarding tapping at the tow pigtail: (1) mine has a wiring diagram on the hinged plastic cover (2) once you locate the correct wire, it could also probably be tapped up front somewhere as I assume the circuit has fuse/relay in the underhood boxes.

I live in Larkspur.
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Cool, bud. Thanks for the info.

Unless you know which circuit in the fuse block comes on with the lights so I could use an Add-a-Circuit, I guess I will play it safe and just run wires all the way to the trailer plug.

Thanks again and maybe I'll see you on the road sometime. :cheers:
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bestatchess
I don't know off hand. I could probably figure it out by (1) looking at the service manual and/or (2) using a DMM and selectively pulling fuses until the voltage at the pin on the trailer plug went from +12V to 0.
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bestatchess said:
I don't know off hand. I could probably figure it out by (1) looking at the service manual and/or (2) using a DMM and selectively pulling fuses until the voltage at the pin on the trailer plug went from +12V to 0.
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No prob. Thanks again.
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