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Discussion Starter #1
I put a tough country 2" leveling kit on my 08 Sierra Denali to fit 33" tires and it works great...no loss of handling or whatever...but...when towing the truck looks retarded....With my 2010 Pro-4x I don't want the same issues...so if I do a 2.5" front level and a 1.5" rear level I am hoping for less of that, but my big concern is if the rear blocks or an add-a-leaf is done for lift....does that screw with the truck's handling at all??? I don't want to lose that. I would actually do that with my Denali, but I am leery of screwing with the handling...:confused:
 

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It shouldn't mess with your handling. On my '06 I have a 2.5"/1" setup and tow the trailer you see in my sig. This truck/trailer combo pulls better than any of the others I've had over the years, but I did have to get the weight distributing hitch set up correctly. Lots of tension in the bars. The front on your 2010 is about 1.5" lower than the rear, so what you're wanting to do will give you about 1/2" of rake still. That means that if you tow heavy, the back will still probably sag lower than the front.

Sidebar: I don't think you'll be able to go 2.5" higher on the front of your 2010 without getting some contact, unless you go with a new UCA as part of the kit for the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It shouldn't mess with your handling. On my '06 I have a 2.5"/1" setup and tow the trailer you see in my sig. This truck/trailer combo pulls better than any of the others I've had over the years, but I did have to get the weight distributing hitch set up correctly. Lots of tension in the bars. The front on your 2010 is about 1.5" lower than the rear, so what you're wanting to do will give you about 1/2" of rake still. That means that if you tow heavy, the back will still probably sag lower than the front.

Sidebar: I don't think you'll be able to go 2.5" higher on the front of your 2010 without getting some contact, unless you go with a new UCA as part of the kit for the front.
thanks man. I love when answers lead to more questions.:bangit: so here goes:

I get what you are saying on the rake...but at least with a beefed up rear end it might not be so bad, but what do you recommend and what did you do for the rear? Bigger blocks or Add-a-leafs? Pros and cons of each?

How come your 06 could take 2.5" in the front but you are thinking something will rub/hit on my 2010?

Thanks again...Looking forward to more learning.:)
 

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The 2008 and up models came a little more level from the factory than the earlier models. Taller springs. That means that whereas the earlier models could take a bigger spacer, the later ones couldn't. The contact you'd likely get is contact on droop between the UCA and the coil bucket. Makes a hell of a racket, and the suspension can't go to full droop. I haven't done anything to the rear of mine other than add the 1" block. When the trailer is hooked and the WD hitch set up, I sag about 1.5" which means the back on mine is about 1/2" lower than the front. For me, that wasn't enough to worry about. Something else to keep in mind: Anything more than 1" higher in the rear means you'll need new shocks as well. The OEM length shocks will over-extend on droop with anything more than that and they'll likely fail quickly.

Should you want to keep the back end up under load, air bags are an option. Others have used the Roadmaster Active Suspension. From what I understand, the RAS will add some height to the rear even when it's set at it's lowest tension, so keep that in mind as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The 2008 and up models came a little more level from the factory than the earlier models. Taller springs. That means that whereas the earlier models could take a bigger spacer, the later ones couldn't. The contact you'd likely get is contact on droop between the UCA and the coil bucket. Makes a hell of a racket, and the suspension can't go to full droop. I haven't done anything to the rear of mine other than add the 1" block. When the trailer is hooked and the WD hitch set up, I sag about 1.5" which means the back on mine is about 1/2" lower than the front. For me, that wasn't enough to worry about. Something else to keep in mind: Anything more than 1" higher in the rear means you'll need new shocks as well. The OEM length shocks will over-extend on droop with anything more than that and they'll likely fail quickly.

Should you want to keep the back end up under load, air bags are an option. Others have used the Roadmaster Active Suspension. From what I understand, the RAS will add some height to the rear even when it's set at it's lowest tension, so keep that in mind as well.

Meant to reply and follow up....I am going to go with what you said...1" Blocks in the back...1" higher than stock blocks that is. After talking to a buddy who owns a shop he said the blocks are the way to go b/c the ride stays the same vs. the Add a Leafs where the ride gets harsher.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Carbeaux,

As a follow up...I had the front Leveling kit and the Rear 1" Blocks from ReadyLift installed last week. The truck barely shows either, but I figured that...My installer...a friend who owns his own shop...was concerned with the rear shocks not being able to support the new 1" blocks under heavy off roading...

I know you mention that above, but not really in relation to the off roading...which this truck does big time....Do you think I will be ok, or do I need to get some longer Bilsteins or something?
 

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With just a 1" block, you're fine. Even on full droop it shouldn't over-extend your rear shocks. More than a 1" block you'd want a longer shock.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
10-4 man, thanks again. Have a great Christmas....and thanks for all the quick replies. :)
 

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Merry Christmas to you as well.
 
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