[TheRealJimbo]

My '04 finally has about 92k. I replace both front wheel bearings late 2008-early 2009. Because of the down time with the dead engines and all, she hasn't gotten much use since then (less than 20k miles)

So she howls pretty bad now. Seems clearly distinct from the howl coming from the rear differential. Also gets worse when you turn the wheel.

The dog and I both thoght it was coming from the right front, so I removed the old (<20k mi) bearing - which seemed alright by hand - and replaced it. You guessed it, absolutly no change in the noise.

I'm wondering if the front differential makes this noise, anyone know?

Ok, so since the Wheel bearing are interchangeable and I'm already pissy from beating on this truck, I'll swap the 'old' right one into the left side and see what happens.

Jimbo

 

[AcidJake75]

^^^let us know if it fixes the issue please.. I have an 04 as well..

 

[bestatchess]

I had a bearing noise in my original 2004 front diff that I thought was a wheel bearing. The dealer used sound sensors to determine it was a diff bearing, rebuilt the diff, which cured the problem until the dealer later replaced the front diff with an 06 diff because of the half shaft/C-clip problem.

 

[TheRealJimbo]

Ok so I attempt to remove the left front axle nut and break a Craftsman 1/2" breakerbar. So, I go to the stealership. LAST TIME!!

I ride while the service manager drives. Back at the shop I give him CLEAR direction.

1)Torque RF axle nut (I didn't use a torque wrench when changing RF bearing)
2)Loosen and re-torque LF axle nut (so that I can remove it back home to change the WB)
3)Determine where noise in front is coming from
4)Status on best parts for rear and front diff replacement (Service manager claims only seen one bad front, and that was owner abuse)
5)Diagnose slip/ABS light (2WD sux in upstate NY, when you paid for 4WD)

So the estimate is for +4k. The stealership says that they have to replace the front and rear differentials BEFORE they can diagnose the lights! And of course, they NEVER LOOSENED THE DAMN AXLE NUT!!

So I did what everyone knows I shoulda done (Drive the titan through the dealersip glass and say the differential made me do it?!?)

I removed the axle nut with a 1 1/4" combination wrench with a cheater wrench attached. The TruckChick was standing on the brakes.

Removed LF WB and replaced it with the RF WB removed last time. (While in the front, replaced rotors and pads)

Drive the Titan. Notice . . . . No slip light, no ABS light, 4WD works, no WB noise.

So now, what to do?

Pulled the rear wheels. RR has orange/brown staining, I'm assuming diff fluid. Went to the wholesale parts shop, and checked part numbers on rear WB/Seals. Apparently the part # (A-30) has not changed from 2004(mine) to present. I'm thinking the only change they made for 2008(?) was the cover and vent for cooling. WB and seal is about $100 a side. Options?

1) pull both axles, change WB/Seal, 'fix' vent, put the finned cover on.

2) find a used +2007 rearend and swap it in.

3)Have a local shop rebuild the entire rear end. Of course, they have no equipment to tell if one of the tubes is bent. Stealership said RR wheel wobbles, though I can't see it

4)Find a machine shop that can make a Dana 60 fit the Titan (cost prohibitive obtion prolly)

5)Drive the Titan through the glass wall of the Stealership (HUGE satisfaction quotient here!!)

Ideas??

Oh, while I was there (local transmission shop that I used to work at 25 years ago) one of the owners said the problem he has seen with the trans is antifreeze in the valve body. So I'm thinking I'll read around the forum about an external trans cooler maybe?

 

[bestatchess]

So now, what to do?

Pulled the rear wheels. RR has orange/brown staining, I'm assuming diff fluid.

Orange is usually rust. Pull rotor, inspect parking brake shoes, rotor. Rear axle seal leak typically appears as oil on backing plate.

Went to the wholesale parts shop, and checked part numbers on rear WB/Seals. Apparently the part # (A-30) has not changed from 2004(mine) to present. I'm thinking the only change they made for 2008(?) was the cover and vent for cooling. WB and seal is about $100 a side. Options?

2004-2007 use Timken Set 10 rear axle bearings (bearing/race/spacer ring) and Nissan 43252-7S200 rear axle seals. Bearing = $30 Seal is around $25. Another $50 for parking brake shoes and maybe $15 for the parking brake spring/clip kit. RockAuto Auto Parts Some times leaking axle seal will soak parking brake shoes in gear oil to the point they need to be replaced.

Replacing check valve vent with a hose vent may help keep the seals from leaking.

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-faq-howto-area/28334-axle-vent-issue-solution.html

2008+ went to larger diameter axle shafts with more splines.

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-faq-howto-area/123384-replacing-axle-seals-w-pics.htm

Gear oil spec was changed to 75/140 synthetic for all years.

Finned cover can be bought from Nissan or aftermarket from PML, Stillen or Mag-Hytech. Aftermarket covers increase gear oil capacity.

1) pull both axles, change WB/Seal, 'fix' vent, put the finned cover on.

Sounds good to me. You need a press or just take shaft & parts to shop with press to press new bearings on.

2) find a used +2007 rearend and swap it in.

2007 is the same as 2004 except for the finned cover and if you have an e-locker they have a stronger 4 spider design. If you want to go for bigger axle shafts with seals that don't leak as often, you need 2008+. Disadvantage of 2008+ is that TruTrac will not fit the larger 35 spline axle shafts.

3)Have a local shop rebuild the entire rear end. Of course, they have no equipment to tell if one of the tubes is bent. Stealership said RR wheel wobbles, though I can't see it

If RR wobbles, you probably have a bent axle shaft, rather than a bent tube. You can check run out with on the axle shaft flange with a dial indicator.

You can get a master install kit that has all the bearings and seals except axle shaft seals and bearings. Nissan does not sell new ring and pinion set, but if needed you can probably call Arizona Differential and get a good used set because many people have done gear swaps. If you use TrueTrac LSD you would have a major upgrade. The TrueTrac bolts should be re-torqued with red high temp locktite prior to install (or bolts drilled and safety wired) so the bolts don't back out and wipe out the carrier bearing caps.

4)Find a machine shop that can make a Dana 60 fit the Titan (cost prohibitive obtion prolly)

Arizonal Differential builds Dana 60s with Titan tube ends so you retain your original brakes and ABS sensors. I dunno if they can match the oem front diff ratio with a Dana 60.

5)Drive the Titan through the glass wall of the Stealership (HUGE satisfaction quotient here!!)

Jail food sucks, not a good idea.

, while I was there (local transmission shop that I used to work at 25 years ago) one of the owners said the problem he has seen with the trans is antifreeze in the valve body. So I'm thinking I'll read around the forum about an external trans cooler maybe?

Yeah, I think good idea. Bypass radiator cooler and add external cooler and also replace all the crappy oem cooler hose and clamps. I think the correct Hayden Cooler is #679 and of course there are other brands, like Long Tru Cool. CSF makes an all aluminum radiator that will get you away from cracking plastic oem tanks, it you want to get it all done at once.

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/tit...715-radiator-bypassed-transmission-fluid.html

 

[TheRealJimbo]

OK, so, you have got to be the fountain of Titan Rearend knowledge . . . myself, I was contemplating a rearend that I woud'a liked to have more knowledge of today, but that's a different matter all together:bump:


So, just some clarification . . . When I noticed the Rearend whine many miles ago, I changed the fluid to the manual recommended 80-90 . . . it's official that I should use the 145??

I have - or should say HAD - E-locker. I broke the silly little terminal, and the same stealership told me back then that I needed a new rearend. So how does the E-Locker effect my options? Did you say the shafts are bigger on E-lockers?

My initial thought at the color was rust also. Almost looks like very fine metal shavings slung in a circle on the spring leaves. Just trying to decide if I should pop the cover, pull the shafts and do the bearings.

Lastly . . . tell us more about this Dana 60 swap! Has anyone here done that?:eyebrow:

 

[bestatchess]

So, just some clarification . . . When I noticed the Rearend whine many miles ago, I changed the fluid to the manual recommended 80-90 . . . it's official that I should use the 145??

Yes, 75/140 synthetic is the current official spec.

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-general-discussion/17871-updated-info-rear-diff-gear-oil.html

I have - or should say HAD - E-locker. I broke the silly little terminal, and the same stealership told me back then that I needed a new rearend. So how does the E-Locker effect my options? Did you say the shafts are bigger on E-lockers?

The 2004-2007 shafts all have the same diameter and spline count, but in the e-locker one of them is a different length and needs to be replaced to install a TrueTrac. You also replace the position detecting plunger with a bolt. They upgraded the e-locker, I think in 2007, to a stronger 4 spider design. The spider gears in the early trucks tended to fail.

Lastly . . . tell us more about this Dana 60 swap! Has anyone here done that?:eyebrow:

Yes, 2wd has done that. I dunno if 4wd can do that because of the need to match the oem gear ratio in the front diff. I suggest calling them.

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/tit...146-arizona-differential-whole-enchilada.html

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-engine-transmission-drivetrain/112715-diff-gear-swap-info.html

 

[bestatchess]

RR wobbling + metal shavings doesn't sound good. I would pull shaft and have a look. If the bearing gets totally wiped out, it can wear the bore in the end of the tube out of round and then you have a big problem. This is a rare event, however.

 

[TheRealJimbo]

Ok So I pulled both axles today. Bothe bearings seemed to growl a bit, but low fluid may have caused that. I finally picked up a Haynes manual, and that says '04 still takes 80-90, whereas all other years take 75-140. In any event, I picked up 75-140.

The wholesale place didnt have seals, but I picked up bearings, rotors, pads, shoes and a shoe hardware kit.

Is 43252-7S200 excluvily found at Nissan? Cause I am not going to Country Club Nissan | An Oneonta Nissan dealer Schenectady Nissan dealer & Utica & Binghamton Nissan dealership again if I can help it:spam:

I need to track down the new style cover too.

Jimbo

 

[bestatchess]

AFAIK, the only axle seals that actually fit 2004 thru 2007 are the ones available only from Nissan.