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Gentlemen: I have used this forum to get technical tips in the past, and for the most part, it has helped me. This job was such a pain, that I wanted to share my experience for the benefit of the rest of you.

I have owned my truck since May of 2004, I bought it new, It has been my primary work truck (I own a landscape company) for the last 8 years. I plow snow, I pull a trailer everyday...My Titan is my baby.

The control arm bushings were bad on my driver side lower control arm. I took it to the dealer and they confirmed it and estimated $1250 to fix, plus I would need an alignment. Not being stupid (entirely), I said no and went home and bought 2 new Uppers and two new lower MOOG control arms as well as new Camber bolts. This cost me a little over $400 from RockAuto. These are complete assemblies with bushings and ball joints.

Disassembly is rather straight forward (and there are other entries in this forum that cover that- so I wont)- all I'll say is spray penetrating oil on everything the night before. The first problem I encountered was removing the lower ball joint pinch bolt from the spindle head. I used a torch to heat it up red hot and let it cool for about ten minutes, then reheated the bolt head side red again, and used a ball peen hammer to tap out the bolt. The next issue was actually seperating the Spindle head from the lower ball joint stub. I ended up using a Pitman Arm puller to yank it off.

For the Upper control arms, I used a 24" breaker bar, an impact socket and a length of pipe to break these nuts loose. The biggest issue was moving the brake lines on the driver side suffciently to allow me to extract the bolt from the control arm. If your truck sees road salt like mine does, just take your time, use the penetrant, and remove the support braket from the frame. The bolts that secure this bracket are small and you dont want to break them off.

For the Lower Control Arms, My camber bolts had become one with the sleeve inside the CA bushing. I went to this forum, then went to home depot and bought a handful of metal cutting blades for my Sawzall. I highly recommend that if this is your path, you spend a little extra and buy the blades with the carbide edge. I had to saw off each lower bolt (from the inside of the LCA mount) and this required me to saw thru the bushing sleeve as well. It took me like 20 minutes per side to saw these off. Just take your time, the space is tight and keep an eye on your saw blade, before long it will be useless. These bolts are really hard and I was using like 3 blades a cut until I went with the carbide.

The first side (driver) took me a good 10 hours (lots of trial and error dealing with the corrosion). The other side took me 4 hours and I had to go to the store to get another carbide blade (I needed 2 of these).

I just finished driving my truck to the Firestone so that they can align it first thing in the morning. So A big THANK YOU to all those other forum contributors for helping me and I hope my humble insights can help others in the future. Good Luck and enjoy your truck.
 

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04 is a long time until needing to do uppers and lowers. Not surprised it was a huge pain. Glad you got it done though!
 

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I can sympathize with you on this one, installing my lift was a bear. My truck lived in MA is whole life and I ended up having to cut off my lower control arms as well. At least at this point you won't have to do it again!
 

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Like the man said, PB Blaster on everything! Several days in a row before the job. Doing my headers made me a believer and that was a Florida truck. I canimagine what a truck from up north looks like underneath after 8-9 years.
 

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Like the man said, PB Blaster on everything! Several days in a row before the job. Doing my headers made me a believer and that was a Florida truck. I canimagine what a truck from up north looks like underneath after 8-9 years.
Hahaha, bad enough that PB, torch, and 5lb sledge doesn't work.... In comes the sawzall.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Guys. I especially appreciate those comments from y'all in the southern climes....I feel ya, but Chicago is my home- besides I can't get the Christmas Spirit "right" (in my head at least) without the snow and cold. Salt sucks, we deal with it. Just like you folks deal with Hurricanes.

My truck rides like new, which while great shouldn't be the surprise it is- seeing that everything is new.

My new exhaust arrived today. The studs connecting my Y-pipes will certainly be part of my next post. Thanks again Gents.
 

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OK so i need recommendation on front control arms uppers and lowers. See early monday morning MNT time i hit my brakes and well needs to say my upper control arm on the drive side decide to shred it self. I think it was cause the previous owner with 4x4 and didn't change out the control arms.... well this happened to damage not only my control arm but my wheel and lower control arm and a few other things. so I need to know what you guys would recommend onto replace both sides uppers and lowers for these things. I talked to 4x4 shop and apprently that is pretty much a given for the 2008 titans... So any help woud be great let me know either here or via pm thanks
 

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DK hands down. That would be a great set up with no worries.
 

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Dirt king fabrication. On my phones so I can't get a link right now
 

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We have our Titan upper control arms in stock. They provide additional clearance over the coil bucket and have the needed increase in castor for a lift to improve the cornering and handling of the vehicle. We use high quality FK heims and uniballs for a durable, long lasting arm.



If you have any questions please shoot me a pm or email at [email protected].
 

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thanks for the tips on what to go with. I will have to see what my 4x4 parts guys are a authorized dealer. that is some serious stuff on the site. and Yes the adventure of going broke was umm over a week ago.. lol its just hard to believe that the lowers are crazy expensive. lol but i got to do what i got to do... I'd rather spend 600 bucks now than 2000 later on repairs....
 

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Hey what about the rough country control arms for 3" spacers in front does it help the clearance from the coil housing or can anyone point me in the right direction on what to do the control arm hits the housing on bumps a lot

Thanks,

Bart's Titan
 

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My 04 lived in NH it's entire life. When I did the uppers and lowers I didn't even try the camber bolts - sawzall using one blade per bolt I might add. Big PITA but a lot cheaper than the dealer making a mess of it.... Not a fun job but rewarding when done to know it is done right.
 

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Although this is an old thread I wanted to thank the thread starter for recommending the Pitman arm puller to remove the lower control arm Ball joint. After I cut out the lower control arm bolts with a sawzall I tried a ball joint fork remover then a puller and could not move the ball joint. I beat on it, heated it with a torch with no luck. Went to Autozone and picked up the OEM Ptiman Arm puller #27016. Attached the tool and removed the lower ball joint in 2 minutes. ( I would like to think I loosened it up with my prior tactics.). My Titan is an "04 with 104K miles.

If I had to do it again I would remove the Lower ball joint first before cutting loose the control arm bushings.

Thanks

NF
 
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