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Discussion Starter #1
Changed my oil for the first time last night. Purchased the truck in November with 44,xxx miles on it and it had a fresh oil change. Let it run to 50k and changed.

I had posted a thread earlier asking for any tips/tricks when changing the oil and there was some debate whether the oil capacity was 6.5 quarts or 6 7/8ths quarts. The owner's manual apparently says 6.5 and the service manual says 6 7/8ths.

No need to over complicated it as 7 full quarts with filter brings it right to the full mark. My Z06 is the same way. The manual calls for 6.5, but 7 brings it to the full mark and since most V8s use some oil anyway you'll be topping it off after a few thousand miles regardless.

I found the previous oil changer had left out the copper crush washer completely so I put in a fresh one (got a bag from the Nissan dealer). I used Walmart Supertech oil for the first time ever. Normally I use the expensive stuff and chang it every 10k or 1x/year, but it seems these trucks don't like extended drain intervals. Thus, I used the Supertech Full Syn 5w30 and the ST filter and plan on 5k OCIs. The ST filter is made at Champion Labs, same place the M1 filter is made, so they look identical other than the color of the anti-drainback valve and the sticker on the side. Whether or not the filter media inside is different I have no idea, but for $2.78 vs. $13.xx I'll take the cheaper one and change the oil sooner.

BITOG confirmed that the Supertech Oil is sometimes private labeled M1 and other times it's from Warren Industries. Either way I'll tak the $25 full syn oil/filter change vs. the $55 one :hi:
 

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i buy the $20-$24 jug of synthetic, whichever is on sale, plus i always have a half a jug or so laying around and the $5 filter. works great for me.
 

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I use purple royal in mine and let it goto about 5k miles. Is that too long? Is that a poor choice in oil?
 

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I use purple royal in mine and let it goto about 5k miles. Is that too long? Is that a poor choice in oil?
I see no problem in the amount of miles...

My company truck is changed at 10k every time with synthetic. That's what they have been doing for years on all the trucks and never had a problem.

I personally never wait that long on my own vehicles.
 

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The limiting factor on long drain intervals for the Titan is the ridiculously small oil filter, at least IMO.

I'm no engineer, but one of my best friends is. He works in design for one of the largest aerospace subcontractors in the US, and generally thinks engineers never screw up (common with engineers for some reason - I know a lot of them by nature of the town I live in). One evening we were in my garage and he saw a filter sitting on the shelf and asked/presumed it was for my street bike. He was fairly floored when I told him is was for the Titan. Couldn't believe someone would spec such a tiny filter for a V8 full size truck.

On topic, I use Amsoil 0W30 with a Wix filter. I change the oil every 7500, and the tiny filter every 3750. And yeah, it takes 7 quarts every time, always has. It's not a cheap or efficient regimen, but I sleep well at night knowing I'm over-maintaining a $5K part, versus under-maintaining.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah when I looked up the oil filter PN then opened the box I went back and re-checked the PN. It's a very small filter. My father's Panoz race car uses a remote filter mount with a K&N oil filter that's the size of a small coffee can. In my race car (a 2001 C5 Z06) I run Amsoil fluids throughout. I run the standard XL 10w40 synthetic and a K&N filter (they keep oil pressure higher) and change it ever 3 race weekends.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
^ True, but easier for tech's to remember 7 and better a little over-full then under-full and have customers complain when they check their oil (if they even do). Side-story lots of new high end cars don't even have dipsticks. My mother has a 2007 CLS550 and you can't check the oil. You have to look at the oil level gauge on in the info screen in the gauge cluster.
 

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I was considering their gear oil after noting the hideous price of M1 75/140, but lost interest after I googled.

Monterey, CA. Wal-Mart Settles Defective Machine and Truck Gear Oil Civil | Wal-Mart Watch | Fighting for Wal-Mart Workers | Employee Free Choice Act
This makes me wonder about the Mobil1 Walmart sells for so cheap in the 5 quart jugs, ($21 IIRC). I noticed last time I changed my oil the label actually has Walmart, printed on it from the factory. Seemed a little strange when I saw that, but now makes me wonder if it's the same M1 we would get if bought elsewhere. :confused:

7 quarts for mine too.
 

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The limiting factor on long drain intervals for the Titan is the ridiculously small oil filter, at least IMO.

I'm no engineer, but one of my best friends is. He works in design for one of the largest aerospace subcontractors in the US, and generally thinks engineers never screw up (common with engineers for some reason - I know a lot of them by nature of the town I live in). One evening we were in my garage and he saw a filter sitting on the shelf and asked/presumed it was for my street bike. He was fairly floored when I told him is was for the Titan. Couldn't believe someone would spec such a tiny filter for a V8 full size truck.

On topic, I use Amsoil 0W30 with a Wix filter. I change the oil every 7500, and the tiny filter every 3750. And yeah, it takes 7 quarts every time, always has. It's not a cheap or efficient regimen, but I sleep well at night knowing I'm over-maintaining a $5K part, versus under-maintaining.
Interesting that you bring this up. Reason being my Titan and Pathfinder use the same filter. Pathfinder is a 4 liter engine, Titan 5.6 obviously. My Ninja uses the exact same filter as well (I double checked part numbers)! It has a 500 cc (0.5 liter) engine.

That said, even when going over 7K miles on the Titan I have yet to have a clogged/full oil filter, so I guess so long as the air filter is good and the engine itself is running in spec there shouldn't be that much contaminant in the oil anyway. Unless of course you go playing in the desert all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
NOT. There's a VERY GOOD reason not to overfill.
7 quarts when the service manual calls for 6 7/8ths isn't an issue. Putting 10 in might be. Most pans are designed to hold about 2 quarts over capacity to account for screw-ups.

Yes if you fill it too full and the crank will drag in the oil leading to aeration and eventually loss of oil pressure.
 

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Interesting that you bring this up. Reason being my Titan and Pathfinder use the same filter. Pathfinder is a 4 liter engine, Titan 5.6 obviously. My Ninja uses the exact same filter as well (I double checked part numbers)! It has a 500 cc (0.5 liter) engine.

That said, even when going over 7K miles on the Titan I have yet to have a clogged/full oil filter, so I guess so long as the air filter is good and the engine itself is running in spec there shouldn't be that much contaminant in the oil anyway. Unless of course you go playing in the desert all the time.
They all take the same filter now. Our Quest, Altima, Maxima, 350/370Z...all take that filter.
 

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One word....Wal-Mart. 'Nuff said.
 

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Interesting that you bring this up. Reason being my Titan and Pathfinder use the same filter. Pathfinder is a 4 liter engine, Titan 5.6 obviously. My Ninja uses the exact same filter as well (I double checked part numbers)! It has a 500 cc (0.5 liter) engine.

That said, even when going over 7K miles on the Titan I have yet to have a clogged/full oil filter, so I guess so long as the air filter is good and the engine itself is running in spec there shouldn't be that much contaminant in the oil anyway. Unless of course you go playing in the desert all the time.
Yeah, it's mostly excessive compulsiveness on my part. I have no empirical data showing the tiny filter is not doing it's job properly.

But as an average person, how do you know if the filter clogs to the point that you're running around in bypass? I don't think you do. What would you look for on the filter when you change it to indicate such?
 

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Yeah, it's mostly excessive compulsiveness on my part. I have no empirical data showing the tiny filter is not doing it's job properly.

But as an average person, how do you know if the filter clogs to the point that you're running around in bypass? I don't think you do. What would you look for on the filter when you change it to indicate such?
I don't know that you can know until you do an oil change. There is definitely not an indicator on any filter I have used. A guy on the motorcycle forum I am on said that when it is clogged then the oil doesn't go through the filter, so after running the engine until it warms up, if the filter is still cool then it is too contaminated for flow, that is why it is cool, no hot oil running through it. I have no idea if this is correct or not. Seems logical, although I will admit I do not know how these filters are designed to have oil flow through them, or what truly happens when they are fully clogged with junk filtered out.
 

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I don't know that you can know until you do an oil change. There is definitely not an indicator on any filter I have used. A guy on the motorcycle forum I am on said that when it is clogged then the oil doesn't go through the filter, so after running the engine until it warms up, if the filter is still cool then it is too contaminated for flow, that is why it is cool, no hot oil running through it. I have no idea if this is correct or not. Seems logical, although I will admit I do not know how these filters are designed to have oil flow through them, or what truly happens when they are fully clogged with junk filtered out.
Every canister filter I've ever used has a bypass mechanism built into it. When the PSI needed to go through the filter media reaches a certain level, a spring compresses down at the bottom of the canister and allows the oil to go through the filter canister, but not the filter media.

YMMV.
 
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