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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so it seems if its even -2 Celsius. my windows will not budge they slightly move. but will not come down i even bang on them abit try to loosen it up from being frosted etc. still nothing. takes atleast 10 mins of warm up before they will even come down. drives me absolutely nuts. my titan is only 3 years old pretty well. anyone else having this issue
 

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You ever walk to get your mail when its -2?
 

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all of them slow or just one? if all are slow, that's a dealer issue to resolve. if it's just one, pull the door card and inspect. it sounds to me that you have a water and weather issue from freezing if it only happens in cold and disappears after warming the interior. I've found everything from mouse/rat nests to water damage on elec connectors, bent tracks etc. because they're brushless DC motors in window transports, they usually just fail outright instead of taking the slow death approach to giving up.
 

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mine were always giving me sh1t in chicago. i gave up trying to use them in the winter months. they have been slow since the day i bought the truck, any ice just makes them inoperable lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
its basically as honda said unusable. its both the front windows for sure. even after the interior is warm they are still sad. have to click up/down bunch of times tot ry to lossen it and most times wont work.
 

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i would run my ice scraper along the bottom and clean it off (carefully, the rubber strip likes to get wrecked by the hard plastic and the cold weather lol)




just dump a pot of boiling water on the glass?????
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
all just such a hassle to need the window rolled down to get a tim hortons coffee ha. are there aftermarket window motors that are better?
 

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its only 28 degrees. Not cold
-2 in my area is -2, not 28 degrees like it is for Paskel, however, I don't have any issues with my truck, even when it is -22(F not C) like it was last week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
yeah its odd. and very frustrating. guess ill just deal with it. works fine in the summer when i actually need them
 

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just dump a pot of boiling water on the glass?????
Are you trolling him? lol?



Anyway, I'd hate to live in a place it gets that cold. I've been up north during winter once, It was hard for me to imagine people live a day to day life in weather like that. I'm used to it being 80 degrees at night lol.
 

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Not sure, having never had a reason to go into my door panels or window motors (yet) but could it be a grease issue, rather than water or ice? I know in the firearms world we deal with cold weather causing the wrong grease to become so viscous it effectively solidifies. It can stop an action cold or lock up a trigger, making the gun unfireable, until the grease is warmed.

I don't even know if the motors can be degreased and something temperature appropriate applied, but it's worth cinsidering.
 
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My rear windows are so slooooowwww in my garage at 45 degrees that I don't dare use them outside when its below 40 for fear they wont close or I'll cook the motors just trying. I mean, it's like the battery is dead...

My fronts are slow too, but not so much that I think they will stop altogether.

The windows are truly a very disappointing bit on this truck.
You just wouldn't think this could possibly be an issue with a modern truck like this. It just doesn't make sense.

It would be nice to see someone build a "hopped up" version... I wonder if I could fit a DeWalt cordless hammer drill motor in there?
 
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If you haven't pulled the door card before, then you probably don't know that the Titan window regulator assembly is quite a bit different from what most look like. Most use a continuous braided wire, unsheathed, that is looped around a couple of pulleys with a motor stuck in the works kind of like an old 8 track tape. Nissan uses braided wire inside of sheaths.....and they rust up and fray inside the sheathing....and the overall design is a bit 'different' from the norm. It's not wrong, but in my opinion it can go bad in more ways than the more orthodox regulator design and is therefore more difficult to diagnose. Here's a couple of image views to see what I'm talking about....

Mercedes regulator: http://cdn3.volusion.com/autc2.bj7vj/v/vspfiles/photos/EMB2107301646-2.jpg
Titan regulator: http://www.partsgeek.com/assets/dimage/full/1313518.jpg

This window problem is an old one within this forum with a lot of posts about it.... and there are only a few that seem to have found a solution...everything from bad switches to failed motors. Here's a way to diagnose where you might have a problem that can be addressed, Remove the entire track and motor from the door then remove the motor from the regulator. First hook just the motor back to the wiring harness and make sure that the motor will turn freely without any load. If not, then put a multimeter to the connector, depress the switch to activate without the motor attached to check the switch for continuity/voltage. If good, then the motor is shot. If both are good, .....take a socket wrench and put it in the back of the regulator and turn it in each direction and check the cables to make certain the cables look good and it goes back and forth without much effort.......if not good, then replace.

One final thing I can offer, is that there are dry silicone lubricants that don't change viscosity from temperature changes and don't attract moisture.....they are a good thing to use on the regulator moving connections, hinges and in the window tracks. As a last resort before you spend the big bucks on suspect parts... give your motor a mild whack with the handle of a screwdriver. For some reason, it has resurrected more than one motor that was failing.
 

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My rear windows are so slooooowwww in my garage at 45 degrees that I don't dare use them outside when its below 40 for fear they wont close or I'll cook the motors just trying. I mean, it's like the battery is dead...

My fronts are slow too, but not so much that I think they will stop altogether.

The windows are truly a very disappointing bit on this truck.
You just wouldn't think this could possibly be an issue with a modern truck like this. It just doesn't make sense.

It would be nice to see someone build a "hopped up" version... I wonder if I could fit a DeWalt cordless hammer drill motor in there?
or the impact one....lol would love to hear that racket every time i roll the windows up:devil:
 

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... This window problem is an old one within this forum with a lot of posts about it.... and there are only a few that seem to have found a solution...everything from bad switches to failed motors. ... there are dry silicone lubricants that don't change viscosity from temperature changes and don't attract moisture.....they are a good thing to use on the regulator moving connections, hinges and in the window tracks.
Nick is right, and part of it is the door design. I live in an area that gets mid-teens in temperatures, with 30 knot+ winds. That will drive snow into the window channels and freeze the glass solidly in place. All it takes is some scoring or wear on the part of the glass that runs in the window channels (from sand or dirt), and then the ice can get a grip on it. And it will freeze solid.

One morning I could not get the windows to defrost and wanted to crack the driver's window so I could get the windshield thawed out a bit and get going to work. The driver's door glass pulled right out of the clips, and when it got a bit warmer, it fell all the way down inside the door. Now THAT was a darn cold 15-mile-ride to my local shop, with the wind blowing the snow into the truck the whole way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
so found a decent solution. the bottom rubber seal on the outside is quite thick. first few times i used a credit card to score the rubber away from the window. not realizing the rubber was still frozen to the window another inch down. after dragging the card along it. window works as normal, just a pain in the *** to have to do that everytime its cold outside..
 
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