Header Install Not Going Well

12969 Views 49 Replies 20 Participants Last post by 06HemiRam, Dec 20, 2012

Misfit

Discussion Starter · May 8, 2011 (Edited)

So today I had the bright idea to install my headers.

Heat shield - easy
Motor mount and jack engine - easy
Unbolt b-pipes - easy
Disconnect O2 sensor - easy
Remove 8 nuts holding exhaust manifold - freaking impossible.

I have extensions and swivels out the wazoo. Also have a shorty 14mm box wrench.

Soaked everything a few hours before my pathetic attempt at removal.

In 3 hours, I managed to remove 2, freaking 2, of the nuts holding on the driver side exhaust manifold.

The other nuts just will not budge. I have broken one 14mm socket already. The only thing I accomplish using a cheater bar is causing the wrench or socket to come off the nut sideways, rounding it a little each time it happens.

I'm about to throw in the towel and say the hell with it.

Any suggestions for getting the nuts from hell loose? The only other thing I can think of is to run the engine a little and warm up the manifolds. Then risk 3rd degree burns as I try to remove the nuts.

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O-FiveCC

· #2 · May 8, 2011 (Edited)

My truck was still warm when we did my headers. We really didn't have a hard time though. The main problem was being able to get to them in a position to put any kind of decent force to twist them off. There where a couple that seemed to take everything I had, but we got them. I do remember one getting to the point where I thought I was about to round 1 nut off, then it magically came off lol...Must be because your truck has so many miles? I know one thing we do at my job, whenever we run into pesky screws or nuts that don't want to budge, we hit the hell out of them with something heavy to loosen them up. Take something long and place it on the side of the nut, then take a hammer and give it a few whacks. Maybe it will help jolt the nut a little loose so it will turn off easier

Reactions: 1

SATXTITAN

· #3 · May 8, 2011

Are you going through the wheel well? If not remove the plastic wheel well cover from both sides remove wheels and use extensions. I also have used nut/bolt extractors as well and just used new nuts. I would recommend using new stainless nuts anyway.

Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

Reactions: 1

BBtruck

· #4 · May 8, 2011

Misfit try soaking with PD blaster or some other non-flamable penetrating oil, start the engine let warm up, repeat the process a few times. I also had to raise and lowered the engine to get a better angle to some of those manifold nuts. Getting the manifold nuts was the easiest in my install, with everything else being harder. I gave up on the O2's and A/F sensors, never got them out. Brought new sensors instead, they were not cheap. Wish you was closer to give you a hand or two.

L

Reactions: 1

Pickle-Smooch

· #5 · May 8, 2011

Stop and have a few beers. It's amazing how after a few beers what the mind will come up with for a work around...just saying

Reactions: 2

joel29m

· #6 · May 8, 2011

Pickle-Smooch said:
Stop and have a few beers. It's amazing how after a few beers what the mind will come up with for a work around...just saying

Mad as he is now??? after a few beers he might un bolt the whole damn engine!!!!! Lol but yeah if you take a break and drink an ice cold budlight to the head that bolt will come off. Sometimes leaving it along now and start on it the next day for some reason your problem become so easy.

Reactions: 1

halfoftwo

· #7 · May 8, 2011

I had issues getting to just about every bolt (manifold and motor mounts) on the drivers side. I did find out that I could lay across the engine and get some of the drivers side from the top. It gave me enough umph to get them off. I also used about a can of PB Blaster per side. Mine was extremely difficult due to my T being 4wd.

Reactions: 1

Misfit

Discussion Starter · #8 · May 8, 2011

Thanks guys! :cheers:

I'll give it another shot today. I do have new nuts, so maybe I can use a nut extractor or splitter.

Tempted to see if an impact wrench will help. :teethmast

deerslayer

· #9 · May 8, 2011 (Edited)

I've already loosened and re snugged all the manifold nuts to make it easier when I get my headers this week. I used 2 cans of PB blaster in the last 2 weeks spraying them every other day. The drivers side is a B####! The less extensions and the less angles the better. On the Drivers side I actually didn't use an extension on like 3 or 4 of them. I used just the 14mm deep weld socket and used a 15" long breaker bar and ran it up through the engine bay and got them loose. If I hadn't sprayed the hell out of them I don't think they would have come loose as easy as they did. MAKE SURE the socket is seated all the way too so you don't round them off. That's why the less angles are better because to much of one and it's the wrong kind of pressure when your using a 3/8 swivel joint. You might want to see if you can get a 3/8 ball joint. It goes around 360* where the universal joint doesn't.

Which nuts are you having trouble with??? If the N's are the nuts

N N N N
N N N N

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Misfit

Discussion Starter · #10 · May 8, 2011

I started with the driver's side; I always go for the hardest first. :lol:

The two nuts I managed to break loose, I did with a 1/2" ratchet and socket and no swivel or extension.

Really, I'm having an issue with all of them. They just won't budge. X shows the ones I removed.

NxNN
NxNN

deerslayer

· #11 · May 8, 2011

Misfit said:
I started with the driver's side; I always go for the hardest first. :lol:

The two nuts I managed to break loose, I did with a 1/2" ratchet and socket and no swivel or extension.

Really, I'm having an issue with all of them. They just won't budge. X shows the ones I removed.

NxNN
NxNN

I did notice when using the deep weld along with the extension that the socket wanted to come off. I just used a regular 14mm socket and didn't put it all the way on the rachet so it would be deep enough to seat all the way on. Try this and a shorter breaker bar, say 13-15 inches and use PB blaster, nothing else will work as well. Wish I could help you!

Reactions: 1

O-FiveCC

· #12 · May 8, 2011

Probably just be easier to get a Lightning and put some headers on that=)=)

Reactions: 1

Misfit

Discussion Starter · #13 · May 8, 2011

O-FiveCC said:
Probably just be easier to get a Lightning and put some headers on that=)=)

:imwithstu

The only reason I'm doing this is because my dad will drive the Titan when I get another vehicle and he wants headers. :teethmast

If I get these things installed, I need to make sure it's not faster than whatever I replace it with. :lol:

bestatchess

· #14 · May 8, 2011

Misfit said:
Tempted to see if an impact wrench will help. :teethmast

I used an impact + extension + swivel on a couple of them. 14mm locking flex head gear wrench was also very helpful.

deerslayer

· #15 · May 8, 2011

Any Updates?

BBtruck

· #16 · May 8, 2011 (Edited)

These two along a decent set of gloves were my best friends.. Don't give up on it. I have some OEM studs if you need some, just pay for shipment. LMK, could have 'em in the mail in the morning..

View attachment 120831 View attachment 120832

14mm worth of manifold nuts azz whoopin'. Also came in handy on those tight piped DT headers.

L

Reactions: 1

Misfit

Discussion Starter · #17 · May 8, 2011

3

Finally, the driver side manifold is off!

I think one thing that helped was warming the engine up. Also, I bought a 14mm ratcheting box end wrench, like the one BBtruck has pictured, which worked really well.

Took a few pics of some of the ways I used to remove the manifold bolts. Hope it will help someone else.

The passenger side bolts are soaking. Going to take a quick break, then install the first header.

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Reactions: 5

halfoftwo

· #18 · May 8, 2011

Glad to hear you got one of them off. The pass. side was the easiest for me. Hopefully for you too.

BBtruck

· #19 · May 8, 2011

X2 on the pass. side.. Man, cut those heat shields clean off..

L

trouse23

· #20 · May 8, 2011 (Edited)

I was going to say blow torch. Just from working with motorcycles and going through the headache of removing aluminum nuts and bolts the last thing you want to happen is have one of those sheer off. Especially when you're all pi$$ed off. Then you throw your wrench and have to grab the drill and tap kit to attempt to get that bad boy out. For tight spaces (like inside the engine compartment) the mini torch is your best friend. If you plan on getting back in there to remove the headers at any point I highly recommend you put some anti-sieze on there. Stuff is great and I use it on every aluminum nut and bolt. Hope this helped and the rest of the install goes well!

I know the nuts and bolts on the headers are steel, but I was just saying don't break 'em. I've read about how hard those are to remove. I'm taking my truck to a good muffler and exhaust shop to do mine. I figure that even if they don't have a great deal with working with performance installs I'm sure they've done their fair share of this type of work. I'm willing to spend a little bit of money to avoid giving myself a brain aneurism. Plus, if they break anything they have insurance and all the necessary tools to fix it.

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