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I've already loosened and re snugged all the manifold nuts to make it easier when I get my headers this week. I used 2 cans of PB blaster in the last 2 weeks spraying them every other day. The drivers side is a B####! The less extensions and the less angles the better. On the Drivers side I actually didn't use an extension on like 3 or 4 of them. I used just the 14mm deep weld socket and used a 15" long breaker bar and ran it up through the engine bay and got them loose. If I hadn't sprayed the hell out of them I don't think they would have come loose as easy as they did. MAKE SURE the socket is seated all the way too so you don't round them off. That's why the less angles are better because to much of one and it's the wrong kind of pressure when your using a 3/8 swivel joint. You might want to see if you can get a 3/8 ball joint. It goes around 360* where the universal joint doesn't.

Which nuts are you having trouble with??? If the N's are the nuts

N N N N
N N N N
 
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I started with the driver's side; I always go for the hardest first. :lol:

The two nuts I managed to break loose, I did with a 1/2" ratchet and socket and no swivel or extension.

Really, I'm having an issue with all of them. They just won't budge. X shows the ones I removed.


NxNN
NxNN
I did notice when using the deep weld along with the extension that the socket wanted to come off. I just used a regular 14mm socket and didn't put it all the way on the rachet so it would be deep enough to seat all the way on. Try this and a shorter breaker bar, say 13-15 inches and use PB blaster, nothing else will work as well. Wish I could help you!
 
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Any Updates?
 

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I didn't have to move the compressor. I did remove the entire engine mount on each side.

The problem on the driver's side wasn't accessing the bolts, it was trying to break them free. I think they were seized worse than usual. On the other hand, the passenger side was a piece of cake. Didn't have trouble breaking any of them free.

Used new gaskets and so far, no signs of leaks. The bolts are still tight, but I'll keep a check on them every few days. Might as well leave the fender liner out for now.

Finally got to go drive it around. It sounds so much better than OEM manifolds with gutted cats. The gutted cats gave it a tin can sound. Now it sounds mean again.

AFR is staying between 12.8 and 13.1 with my BD tune. However, I might still consider an UpRev tune. Sometimes when you stomp it, it feels stronger than at other times. Maybe that will smooth out as the ECU learns. If not, I'll go UpRev.
Glad you got it done! I'll be doing mine this week sometime. I'm going to try and leave work early Wednesday if they come Ups so I can do them:)
 
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What!!? No headers install pics!!?? No busted fingers pics!!?? WTF!!?

L
I'll post pics when I'm done, hell even a video of the sound and a video of a 0-60. I'm going to wear gloves though:) Thanks Misfit for the pics:teethmast
 

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Hope your install goes better than mine. :teethmast

I'm sure it will though, with all the preliminary work you've done. As much as you've soaked the nuts, and loosened them, yours should be pretty simple.

Part of my problem was that I got a wild hair Saturday and decided out of the clear blue to do the headers. No pre-soaking with PB blaster or anything. :teeth:

I think I have a total time of 12 hours in the install. A drunk monkey could do it in 10 hours. So I figure you're looking at 8 hours or less. :)
I'm going to guess I can do it in 6 hours:) 45 minutes to jack up the truck, take off the tires and unbolt the exhaust. 1.5 hours to take off drivers mani and put the header on and tighten nuts. 1.5 hrs for pass side. 30 min to rebolt the exhaust. 30 min to jack down motor and put wheels on:) **** that's less than 6!! LOL I'm hoping it goes like this^^^^^
 

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Took 2 of us less then 2 hours to take off my Nismo headers and put OEM's back on...And really, only one of us was working steadily, and it wasn't me lol
Im serious, if all goes well it'll take me less than 4 by myself due to all the prep work Ive done:)
 
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