[LSturbointeg]

Okay brothers got some questions! I was having what I thought were binding sounds so I ended up taking the preload off my coilovers. So instead of 2.5" preload I'm down to 1" preload. Feels like before which was smooth. Now, I checked to make sure everything is still tight and torqued. Everything checks out good! When I turn I hear this metal clank which I don't know if it's the coilovers or maybe the PRG endlinks? I took a couple of pictures. The coilovers do they look like they are facing the right way? I mean you can see the top hat not facing exactly forward but angled if that makes sense? Did I install it facing the wrong way? Just checking. The PRG End links...to me I wonder by looking at how far off it is if that maybe causing my binding noise? I would think they should be perpendicular with the joint right? Please chime in guys as to what's causing the noise. Its only when I turn?

 

[LSturbointeg]

I'm wondering if I should remove the PRG End links to see if that's what I'm hearing?

 

[honda250xtitan]

yes pull those end links and go from there. Since you're running radflo's lets eliminate the easy stuff first. Cause its gonna be a endless pit if its not the end links lol

 

[LSturbointeg]

yes pull those end links and go from there. Since you're running radflo's lets eliminate the easy stuff first. Cause its gonna be a endless pit if its not the end links lol

Ill disconnect them on Saturday. Was doing some research and looks like SocalTitan had the same problem. Looks like the LCA was causing the issue and he used PRG Derlin Spaces. Here's the info:

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/tit...help-me-solve-front-end-popping-clunking.html

PRG Titan Lower Control Arm Delrin Spacer Kit

These PRG Products Nissan Titan and Armada Lower Control Arm spacers are machined from Delrin and are designed to help reduce the lower control arms tendency to move forward and backward during acceleration and braking. This lower arm movement can cause clunking and poor handling on Nissan Titan and Armada vehicles. Keep reading below for more details...

PRG Products Nissan Titan & Armada lower control arm Delrin spacer kit. The factory bushing design has a significant gap between the end of the bushing and the pivot mount. This gap allows the lower control arm to move forward and rearward under braking and acceleration. In some cases this movement leads to a clunk when the vehicle is driven over uneven road surfaces. The PRG Products Delrin Spacer Kit acts as a bushing between these two surfaces which helps to eliminate the gap. By eliminating the gap these spacers can reduce clunking and also make handling more precise. Please note, when properly installed temporary removal of the factory lower control arm pivot bolts will be required.

 

[MTKross]

I was just about to chime in and say that it's probably the LCAs. When my lower ball joints went bad I started hearing a clank whenever I did a hard turn. Replaced them and no more noise.


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[LSturbointeg]

I was just about to chime in and say that it's probably the LCAs. When my lower ball joints went bad I started hearing a clank whenever I did a hard turn. Replaced them and no more noise.


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You replaced the whole LCA or the lower ball joints cause I thought you can't just replace the ball joints? I'm going to order those Derlin spacers and say at least I tried

 

[honda250xtitan]

Buy my DK LCA's. It solved my clunks and squeaks.

 

[MTKross]

You replaced the whole LCA or the lower ball joints cause I thought you can't just replace the ball joints? I'm going to order those Derlin spacers and say at least I tried

I replaced the LCA. Honestly it's probably not the shifting making that bang during a turn so the Derlin spacers may not help. It's when the ball joint gets too loose it binds and flicks back under tension.

Honestly if I were you I would buy Hondas LCAs. It's the best bang for the buck, because it takes care of what the derlin spacers would do as well as newer ball joints! Might as well since you have coilovers already!


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[LSturbointeg]

Buy my DK LCA's. It solved my clunks and squeaks.

Didn't you put derlin spacers in yours? i would love to grab those DK LCA's from you but i just don't have the budget for them. so damn, if those Derling Spacers don't work it's the lower ball joints? UGH! the shop when they installed the SPC cambolts could only get 1 in on each side because each side had a frozen/ceized bolt. they went ahead and did the alignment and said because they were able to get one of the cambolts in on each side they were able to get the alignment in specs. to Honda, i think i read somewhere you used a Sawzall to cut off the frozen cambolts? how did you do that? i might have to tolerate the clank noise until next year and order new LCA's? this whole suspension upgrade is starting to break my bank...and the WIFEY is starting to get irritated lol!

 

[LSturbointeg]

so my buddy here at work who's a mechanic said if the Derlin Spacers don't work that what MTKross said is to replace the LCA. i told him about the seized up bolt and he said since the whole LCA will be new with bushing/ball joints that just use a sawzall to cut that seized bolt off. i asked where do you make the cuts? he said pretty much where you were going to put those Derlin's in that space you put the sawzall in between. and on the other side do the same. so he said you'll end up doing two cuts per bolt so a total of 4 cuts. the LCA should just drop off and you just install the new LCA. make sense guys?

 

[honda250xtitan]

When cutting seized cams step one is buy more beer and buy more sawzall blades.

 

[honda250xtitan]

And yes once cut it'll come out. Again it's not hard just a pain in the Azz. Typical Nissan

 

[LSturbointeg]

And yes once cut it'll come out. Again it's not hard just a pain in the Azz. Typical Nissan

i'm looking at it and it's pretty tight! i'm guessing that the bolt won't actually be what the sawzall cuts first as it looks like the bushing or whatever that's between the LCA and the frame? looks like i just need to set the blade directly over it and cut away? definitely gonna get more blades but at least i have some options now in case the Derlin's don't work.

 

[MTKross]

Some PB Blaster and a big a$$ hammer won't get those bolts out?


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[LSturbointeg]

What I'm planning on doing is install those Derlin spacers and see if that fixes it. If it doesn't my buddy who's going to weld those CJD Traction bar brackets says there's a way to check if the ball joints are bad. If they are bad I'll end up ordering some new LCA's and sawzall those seized bolts off.

 

[LSturbointeg]

son of a gun! so i put the Derlin Spacers on hoping it would fix the clunk and no go! ::crying:: when i go foward and hit the brake it clangs! when i put it in reverse and hit the brake it clangs. so i'm thinking like MTCross said, it's probably the ball joints. so damn, i'll have to order new LCA's. hopefully using the Sawzall and putting the blade between the LCA and frame or really where i put the Derlin spacers i should be able to take it right down right?

 

[Walrus]

Are you sure all 4 brake calipers are still bolted to the axles and spindles?

 

[honda250xtitan]

take everything apart and put it all back together just to be sure its not a loose bolt.

 

[LSturbointeg]

take everything apart and put it all back together just to be sure its not a loose bolt.

wouldn't that throw off my alignment tho bro?

 

[LSturbointeg]

Are you sure all 4 brake calipers are still bolted to the axles and spindles?

it also does it when turning sometimes and not applying the brake. i just wanted the truck to move forward and backward to see if it clangs still