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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 04' has 107k on it and the belt is starting to squeal on start up.
Can anybody offer some insite on changing the serpentine belt?
I've drawn a diagram showing how the belt runs around the pulleys, just looking for some tips or tricks to help it go smooth. I figure I need to remove the fan shroud and the intake but am lost from there.
any help would be appreciated.
Jason
 

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You have to take the air filter box and tube off to get access to the belt tensioner. Might as well get a CAI while your at the parts store. HeHe :jester:
 
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I haven't done my titan yet, but I doubt you have to pull the fan, or the shroud off. You should be able to work it around and get it out.
 
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to remove the old one, i usually just cut them. Like helomech said, you should just be able to feed the new one around the fan, do that first, may be a tight arse but you should be able to do it. Then just follow the diagram posted under the hood and in the manual for the remainder. The slack adjuster, i forget how it is designed, but usually you just have to put a wrench on it to slacken it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks alot guys I got er' done!
didnt remove anything, its a tight fit but it can be done. You need an extra hand tho to help hold the belt at times and the tensioner.
I already have a K&N 77 series intake thats been on for 3 years with no sensor problems, fyi.
Also the air filter box is on the opposite side of the truck as the tensioner.
 

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Now you're experienced enough to do the short belt mod for the track!

I need to put it on still, but I bought a Goodyear Gatorback belt for 45 bucks, thinking it has to be better than the 12 dollar OEM Belt. Something too good to be true about a 12 dollar OEM Serpentine belt.... :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
KYDeepwater said:
At 107K, have you had any problems with your truck, besides the brake judder?
not really, the diff cover started leaking early on but had it replaced with the slotted 05' cover, squeaky leaf springs ( i think due to adding the 1" block)
The transmission slipped one evening after a long and slow tow of a trailer, so I had the 90k service performed. Nissan flushed the tranny and did all the other over paid for crap. Whats funny is the manuel suggests that the belt be replaced at the 90k mark but the stealersip did not include that in their service?!
Overall I think Nissan built a really good reliable truck as they always do. I've owned 4 nissan trucks and they have all been trouble free. I'm sure there are a few lemons out there but in reality I believe the majority of those with issues are the ones that are abusing there truck as if they are invinsible.
Regular maintnance and common sense will keep your Titan running strong for a long time, I'm predicting 250k at least for my 04'.... we'll see?
 

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I held the flashlight for the tech that changed my belt under warranty, and he didn't have to remove anything to do it. He used a long breaker bar with a socket to release the tensioner and just pulled the old belt off. Same method putting the new one on, and it took maybe 10 minutes.
 

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sudden urge said:
I held the flashlight for the tech that changed my belt under warranty, and he didn't have to remove anything to do it. He used a long breaker bar with a socket to release the tensioner and just pulled the old belt off. Same method putting the new one on. It took maybe 10 minutes.
Good to know. Thanks!
 

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It's pretty easy to do. I used a 3/8" breaker bar (IIRC) and that's about it. I took nothing off the truck, nor used anything other than the tensioner to do it.

I took mine off to put on a short belt when i was at the race track.

The trick is, putting the breaker bar in the right spot, so that you can have room to slide the belt over the last pulley.

Like sudden urge said, there's a tensioner there, then route the new in the same path.
I actually drew a picture on a piece of paper so that I could remember how to get it back on.
 

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Just changed mine, its real simple but not much room to work.
I used a socket wrench with a cheater handle for leverage.
As you loosen the tension you will notice that two holes on the tensioner start to move in line with each other. I cranked on it until they lined up and inserted a 5mm Allen into the hole, this will lock the tensioner into the released postion allowing you to focus on removing the old belt and installing the new. Once the new belt is in position just apply pressure to remove the Allen and release the tensioner.
 

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Mustard said:
Just changed mine, its real simple but not much room to work.
I used a socket wrench with a cheater handle for leverage.
As you loosen the tension you will notice that two holes on the tensioner start to move in line with each other. I cranked on it until they lined up and inserted a 5mm Allen into the hole, this will lock the tensioner into the released postion allowing you to focus on removing the old belt and installing the new. Once the new belt is in position just apply pressure to remove the Allen and release the tensioner.
Great to know. Thanks and congrats!
 

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Mustard said:
Just changed mine, its real simple but not much room to work.
I used a socket wrench with a cheater handle for leverage.
As you loosen the tension you will notice that two holes on the tensioner start to move in line with each other. I cranked on it until they lined up and inserted a 5mm Allen into the hole, this will lock the tensioner into the released postion allowing you to focus on removing the old belt and installing the new. Once the new belt is in position just apply pressure to remove the Allen and release the tensioner.

replacing mine today and needed some help..perfect. i love this site...lol.
 

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So are you saying that you placed a socket w/ the cheater bar on the bolt on the front of the tensioner pulley and then lifted up or pushed down?
 

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So are you saying that you placed a socket w/ the cheater bar on the bolt on the front of the tensioner pulley and then lifted up or pushed down?
I just changed mine a few weeks ago. I used a 1/2" drive ratchet and socket to release the tensioner and a 1/8" allen wrench to hold it in the released position. Facing the engine, you push the ratchet to the left (counter clockwise) to release the tensioner.
 
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Another way is to take alternator 12mm bolt off. make sure belt is lined up, the big pulley by fan should be last meaning " loose". left hand push down on 14mm socket and right hand push belt under pulley. check belt then go under to alt bolt take left hand grab socket where u can pull down and right hand tighten bolt.
 

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you can use a large ratchet or breaker bar to move the tensioner over, the put a screwdriver in the hole beside it and this will hold the tensioner over while you take off and replace the belt. I did mine last fall, and the hardest part was the lack of room to get it on all the pulleys. You cant do much from the bottom because of the skid plate so you have to do it all from the top, and the tips of that rad fan are some sharp buggers.
 
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