[PhilipWicker]

So here's the story. Friend of mine is getting rid of his 06 SE 4x4 that has a 6" fabtech lift on it. I agreed to buy the lift off his truck and put it on my 09 SE 4x4 so that they could get theirs pretty much back to stock. We're doing the swap in his driveway..mind you my neighbor friends are mechanics. I went ahead and purchased a set of Bilsteins front and rear, PRG extended swaybar end links, PRG driveshaft spacer, and PRG UCAs to work into the project. All has gone fairly smooth until this past weekend when we finished up the front and went to drive it to get it aligned. When we went to take a turn out of the driveway, we realized the tie rod ends were rubbing the inside of the stock 18" wheels, and then the sway bar kicked out (forward) and bent one of the PRG end links. Any idea what we did wrong? When comparing the length of the PRG end links to the ones that came with the fabtech kit..they look about the same length. I know some guys on here have had this happen and decide to remove the swaybar...I'm not really looking to do that. As for the end links hitting the wheels, is that due to the oversized spindle from the kit? Do I need to be considering larger wheels, or wheels with more offset to give the steering linkage more room? Would a wheel adapter take care of it as a temporary solution?

Here's a picture I snapped of what the sway bar looks like after it "flipped"

 

[honda250xtitan]

flip it up, and adjust the heims to make the overall length longer. then try again. with it in the right position it shouldn't rub your wheels.

 

[BrandonVK56]

Honesty I'd take it off. Sway bar removed makes for such a better feel in the front. A lot more stable on rough stuff and the body roll isn't really noticeable after 30-40 mph, imo.


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[FishnAlaska]

don't you have to flip the tie rods on the 6" lift?

 

[LSturbointeg]

On my Maxtrac lift I had to flip the tierods... Not to sure about Fabtech's? I'm assuming since it does come with longer spindles you would have to?

Speaking of sway bars I'm wondering if totally removing it will make the truck feel smoother over bumps, train tracks, ect?

 

[BrandonVK56]

On my Maxtrac lift I had to flip the tierods... Not to sure about Fabtech's? I'm assuming since it does come with longer spindles you would have to?

Speaking of sway bars I'm wondering if totally removing it will make the truck feel smoother over bumps, train tracks, ect?

That's it exactly what it does, because without it each side can move independently of each other so it takes out the rocking motion over angle bumps, etc


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[PhilipWicker]

Confirmed, the tie rods have been flipped with the new spindles. The bolt hole is actually tapered so that it can only go one way..from the top down. Did a bit of digging and finding that there have been cases of stock rims with many 6" kits having this issue. Some suggest a wheel spacer to fix or a different rim. I dont really want a larger diameter rim..not my thing. What a bout a more negative offset rim?

 

[PhilipWicker]

Also, just read that we need to swap the tie rods...passenger to driver's side, and driver's side to passenger side. Pretty sure this has not been done yet.

 

[BrandonVK56]

Negative offset will help a little.


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[FishnAlaska]

Speaking of sway bars I'm wondering if totally removing it will make the truck feel smoother over bumps, train tracks, ect?

yes it will, but you will also get body roll going around corners especially on on/off ramps. Ran mie without a sway bar for about 4 years, went back on last fall. It's coming back off this weekend, developed a clunk recently that I think is the sway bar. I will start the elimination process, might also throw my ICON's on if I get a chance.

 

[PhilipWicker]

Update: we extended the end links and the sway bar quit kicking out. As for the tie rods, swapping them looks to be the fix. Thanks for all the input everyone.


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[Paskell]

yes it will, but you will also get body roll going around corners especially on on/off ramps. Ran mie without a sway bar for about 4 years, went back on last fall. It's coming back off this weekend, developed a clunk recently that I think is the sway bar. I will start the elimination process, might also throw my ICON's on if I get a chance.

i dont know about you but my prg endlinks come loose. top bolt on drivers side every few months and they clunk bad almost like cbc. tighten it a bit and its fine. going to use locktight next time haha

 

[BrandonVK56]

i dont know about you but my prg endlinks come loose. top bolt on drivers side every few months and they clunk bad almost like cbc. tighten it a bit and its fine. going to use locktight next time haha

Put a small dot of blue Loctite on one or two of the threads then tighten her down. Let it sit for a little bit before driving then they should stay put. I wouldn't put red loctite on that area. Hope that works out for ya.


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[honda250xtitan]

nylon lock nut.

 

[AzTitanDriver]

So here's the story. Friend of mine is getting rid of his 06 SE 4x4 that has a 6" fabtech lift on it. I agreed to buy the lift off his truck and put it on my 09 SE 4x4 so that they could get theirs pretty much back to stock. We're doing the swap in his driveway..mind you my neighbor friends are mechanics. I went ahead and purchased a set of Bilsteins front and rear, PRG extended swaybar end links, PRG driveshaft spacer, and PRG UCAs to work into the project. All has gone fairly smooth until this past weekend when we finished up the front and went to drive it to get it aligned. When we went to take a turn out of the driveway, we realized the tie rod ends were rubbing the inside of the stock 18" wheels, and then the sway bar kicked out (forward) and bent one of the PRG end links. Any idea what we did wrong? When comparing the length of the PRG end links to the ones that came with the fabtech kit..they look about the same length. I know some guys on here have had this happen and decide to remove the swaybar...I'm not really looking to do that. As for the end links hitting the wheels, is that due to the oversized spindle from the kit? Do I need to be considering larger wheels, or wheels with more offset to give the steering linkage more room? Would a wheel adapter take care of it as a temporary solution?

Here's a picture I snapped of what the sway bar looks like after it "flipped"

I had this same issue as well. Longer end links are needed for lifts. Mine is only a 3" lift, got adjustable like yours. Your outer tie rod, they have Heim outer tie rods that handle the weight of the truck. I am also using RC lift kit, as you have billistin correct?

 

[busemans]

he might not answer as this is an older thread. if you make new post, i imagine a bunch of people will be able to help because 3" lifts seem to be the most common size @AzTitanDriver