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Ha I replaced mine 6x so far I am giving up on this nonsense 236000 miles way to go Nissan lol. A few fords at work have 350000 plus and not one leak
 

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Ha I replaced mine 6x so far I am giving up on this nonsense 236000 miles way to go Nissan lol. A few fords at work have 350000 plus and not one leak


What fluids did u use? I’m throwing an entire 08+ rear axle assembly on my 05 this week and DO NOT want to use whatever u were using. Seriously. U guys with the highest mileage need to post what u use on yours in detail every service.


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Ha I have been using the OEM fluid from Nissan which ever they recommend 75w something I don’t remember I never used anything different
 

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What fluids did u use? I’m throwing an entire 08+ rear axle assembly on my 05 this week and DO NOT want to use whatever u were using. Seriously. U guys with the highest mileage need to post what u use on yours in detail every service.


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Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-140!
 

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Synthetic 75W140 is the recommended fluid for these differentials.
I've not had a problem with the crown and pinion on the 2012. But a friends 2011 had a problem but that was because the vent plugged up and blew out the outboard seals. Also a significant amount of moisture had entered from the vent which rusted the gears. This of course caused an excessive wear and eventually a severe whine.
Best action to avoid this is to remove the vent and fix a hose that can reach a hole in the frame. 4 or 5 feet ot 1/8 hose and a brass 90 degree fitting .I've done this with all the Titans I've owned after the seals blew on the first one.Never had a problem with moisture in the case or premature wear to the internal components since.
At the moment I am working on putting new outboard bearings and seals on the 2012 . But after 254000 km of extreme offroading and heavy loads it was an eventuality. Oil is clean and no internal rust . I did have trouble getting the shaft out . Even shattered the hammer on the puller and bruised the heck out of my hand. Bolt jacking works the best. Punched out the studs and fed a couple pieces of 1/2 inch ready rod either side through the holes a washer and nut inboard of the axle hub and two jam nuts outboard of the hub to hold the rods from spinning.Turn the inboard nut on each rod and the axle pushed out the axle with total ease.
Reassembly went well. Just popped on the plate put in the seal . Baked the bearing in the oven at 300 degrees for 30 minutes and slid it right on the shaft . No press required. Did the same with the retainer .Baked for 30 minutes at 400 degrees (300 didn't work) and slid that right on the shaft. Installed "C" clip and sat back and had a coffee to let things cool down.. Push some more axle grease into the bearing ,pound some new studs in the hub and reinstall the unit back into the axle casing.It's Miller time!
I'll try to post a few photos tomorrow when I do the other side to give an idea of what I did.
 

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NICE THREAD!! Good job Pepco. Everyone please report so that my Titan can get recalled and fixed (if there is a defect) before my diff goes out.

UPDATE ** 12-28-2008: My differential just grenaded last Saturday morning. Fixed under power train warranty thang goodness!
Is the Rear Diff Recall for all first Gen Titans, or only certain years. I had a 2004 and i was always checking the Diff fluid on it...so out of caution i do the same with my 2012 but it seems to not leak it out like the 2004 did.
 

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I've had some woerd clicking noise happen as I drive it comes and goes. I kind of attributed to the dealer we bought it said they did th e brakes but I'm not certain how to tell a bad diff or wheel bearing. What should I notice or hear?
 

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Sorry, but I'm a late-comer to the thread.
I've got a 2nd owner 2004 KC LE 4x4 with approximately 170,000 miles on it now (I bought it in '13 with 75,000 miles from the original owner, a friend of mine). He used it for work mostly and was home builder in spare time from his primary oil change and service shop he owned.
That being said, I don't think he was terribly hard on the truck, and as far as I remember he never had any major problems with it. (Except of course the wonderful cold tick of cracked exhaust manifolds)
Anyway, in the time that I've owned it I've only had a couple of problems with it and overall, Love it!
1st problem, a clip came loose inside the right rear parking brake while on a long (450+ mile) trip and the excess heat from the piece dragging inside the park brake drum caused the axle seal to start leaking on that side. No biggie, I went to my local parts house and bought new bearings and seals plus brake hardware. I pulled the axles from both sides and put the new axle bearings and seals in and the new brake pieces also. Problem solved move on... or so I thought.
2nd problem - Fast-forward a couple of years and about 30k miles and left side axle bearings fails (about 100 miles from home), taking out the axle seal and the abs/traction control sensor with it.
One long tow (almost $400 worth) back to my shop and about $350 in new parts and chemicals, I learned a valuable lesson about bearing quality! Never take the cheap, in-stock bearings from your local parts house... $19.00 bearings from China became very expensive after tow and 2nd repair. Good quality bearings cost about $50 per side, but seemed cheap in comparison. Anyway, to the point of this thread, while repairing the damage from the failed bearing, I removed the cover from the diff and completely flushed the rear axle with brake wash and checked the ring and pinion for play and/or signs of damage from bearing metal. Everything looked good and tight, so I put it all back together and filled it up with fresh 75-140 synthetic.
That was about 3 years ago now, and probably at least another 30k miles ago and this last few years I've been periodically pulling about an 8500 lb toy-hauler with it on trips up to 400 miles each way and have had no further issues with the rear diff.
The truck runs fine still, and I just recently fixed the left side cracked manifold (and can now hear the right side... lol), so I plan to keep the truck for a while longer.
I read though the first 8 pages of this thread before skipping to the end, so my question is this, should I now be wary of the rear diff, or is that something that would have already shown up by now?
Sorry for the long post, but Thanks all!
 

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You could do an axle vent mode.If your T has the locking diff they seemed to has the most chance of failure. Just keep it full.
 

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Back when I had an 04 Titan, I had the rear diff failure...

Fast forward to my 2018 Titan, I am feeling the "kick" about 50% of the time when I come to a stop. Has anybody with the newer body style experienced this regularly and have luck with Nissan identifying it? My worry is that since I don't feel it all the time, they may not drive it at the time where it's occurring. Not happening = not fixing = wasted trip to the dealer = yadayadayada
 

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You could do an axle vent mode.If your T has the locking diff they seemed to has the most chance of failure. Just keep it full.
Mine's not a locker, and I haven't had any issue with it losing fluid since I filled it, but maybe I better check a this next oil change.
 

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Sorry, but I'm a late-comer to the thread.
I've got a 2nd owner 2004 KC LE 4x4 with approximately 170,000 miles on it now (I bought it in '13 with 75,000 miles from the original owner, a friend of mine). He used it for work mostly and was home builder in spare time from his primary oil change and service shop he owned.
That being said, I don't think he was terribly hard on the truck, and as far as I remember he never had any major problems with it. (Except of course the wonderful cold tick of cracked exhaust manifolds)
Anyway, in the time that I've owned it I've only had a couple of problems with it and overall, Love it!
1st problem, a clip came loose inside the right rear parking brake while on a long (450+ mile) trip and the excess heat from the piece dragging inside the park brake drum caused the axle seal to start leaking on that side. No biggie, I went to my local parts house and bought new bearings and seals plus brake hardware. I pulled the axles from both sides and put the new axle bearings and seals in and the new brake pieces also. Problem solved move on... or so I thought.
2nd problem - Fast-forward a couple of years and about 30k miles and left side axle bearings fails (about 100 miles from home), taking out the axle seal and the abs/traction control sensor with it.
One long tow (almost $400 worth) back to my shop and about $350 in new parts and chemicals, I learned a valuable lesson about bearing quality! Never take the cheap, in-stock bearings from your local parts house... $19.00 bearings from China became very expensive after tow and 2nd repair. Good quality bearings cost about $50 per side, but seemed cheap in comparison. Anyway, to the point of this thread, while repairing the damage from the failed bearing, I removed the cover from the diff and completely flushed the rear axle with brake wash and checked the ring and pinion for play and/or signs of damage from bearing metal. Everything looked good and tight, so I put it all back together and filled it up with fresh 75-140 synthetic.
That was about 3 years ago now, and probably at least another 30k miles ago and this last few years I've been periodically pulling about an 8500 lb toy-hauler with it on trips up to 400 miles each way and have had no further issues with the rear diff.
The truck runs fine still, and I just recently fixed the left side cracked manifold (and can now hear the right side... lol), so I plan to keep the truck for a while longer.
I read though the first 8 pages of this thread before skipping to the end, so my question is this, should I now be wary of the rear diff, or is that something that would have already shown up by now?
Sorry for the long post, but Thanks all!
Update: about 2 weeks ago, I once again heard an irritating growl while driving. Upon inspection, (vehicle up on stands and running in 4 High at about 30 mph) I found the right rear axle bearing making more noise and the wheel moving in and out ever so slightly. The bearing was coming apart, AGAIN!!!
I pulled it all apart and went looking for a reason for the failure. What I found was that the bearing retainer plate had gotten warped somewhat during the previous failure and was not holding the axle and seal tight against the bearing. That allowed the bearing to start walking apart again.
This time I replaced both of the bearing retainers as well as the bearings and seals. After assembly I checked both axles for end play and both were tight. So now I'll drive it and see if it happens again, but I don't think it should.

Jason
 
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