Hood Pins Mod
OK, so I'm stuck in the 70's, when every hotrod had Hood Pins, to make you think it was serious! Always wanted them. I bought a set of Stainless Steel Hood Pins by Ford, sold for Mustangs, but they were too short. I still used the Clevis (I'll correct that term asap) and plastic coated cable. Hate to do without a cable, to avoid dropping, or simply having somebody walk off with the pins. Although I used 1/2 Diameter bolts, I'd recommend a smaller diameter (7/16, maybe 3/8) as the OEM Nuts I drilled through, were not very large. Leaving a thin Nut, width wise, to hold the studs. But it does work just fine. It'll last forever. I always wondered how anyone lined these things up with the holes......
PARTS: 2 Bolts, 2 Flatwashers, 2 Oversized Flatwashers, 2 Nuts, 2 Clevis Pins, 2 Plastic Coated Cables (optional), 10 Sheetmetal Screws (min), all parts must be Stainless Steel. Drill Bit and Tap for Size you choose. Hacksaw, Benchgrinder and Sander if possible, to round off the bolts. 3/4" Holesaw Bit.
1. Remove existing Metric Bolts from same location on each side of the body work.
2. Carefully drill out the existing threads, with a 7/16" Bit. (Remember recommendation above about going smaller than I did).
3. Tap hole 1/2-13. Hopefully this thread is centered well. One of mine was off center,leaving good thread about 80% around, instead of 100%.
4. Buy 2 Stainless Steel Bolts, 1/2-13 x 6" Hex Head. (They will later, thread into the hole you tapped, and be locked in, by a Nut you put on them. Very sturdy.)
5. Cut off the head of the bolts, leaving about 5-3/4" long stud. I used a 14" Abrasive Chop saw to cut mine. A Hacksaw will work.
6. Grind or Sand unthreaded end to a smooth point, see photos.
7. Mark Location of cross hole, about 3/4" from pointed end. Center Punch and Drill 17/64" dead center. You need a little experieince, and/or just look at carefully, to get hole centered all the way through.
8. Countersink cross hole on both sides, and sand smooth entire length of bolt, for apppearance sake.
9. Install Bolt, Flat Washer and Nut. Tighten, make sure all looks straight. You'll need to make a few adjustments later, for proper height as you go along. Finalize with Blue LocTite on the threads after everything else is done in the following steps.
10. Slowly drop hood onto tip of bolt! This will provide a dent in underside of the hood, thus transfering exact location. The magic answer!
11. Drill up through hood with 3/4" Hole Saw, and deburr the holes
12. Utilizing an oversized flatwasher (I used a 17 mm x 25mm Heavy FW), make a flange for the top of the hood. Heavy (Extra Thick) will not bend when you screw it to the body work. See photos.
13. Layout 4 holes and drill as shown.
14. Ensure Pin fit inside drilled hood, close hood, and mount your Washer with (4) #6 x 1/2" or #8 x 1/2" Stainless Steel Sheetmetal Screws.
15. Mount cable as shown, and close hood carefully. I just drilled and used a Sheetmetal screw to hold the cable. I used a couple flatwashers to capture the loop better. Pics are better than my description on this.
16. Repeat for other side.
NOTE: If you find the bolt is just slightly off after final tightening with the Loc-Tite, you can grab the tightened bolt, and pull sideways to get a finer fit, centering it in the flange on top of the hood. Also, notice the direction my pins go in, so as to clear the contour of the hood. I will be adding a washer of some sort, to bottom of hood, and remove the burrs of course.
Any Stainless Steel will probably be OK, but I bought type 316, instead of 18-8 like hardware stores normally carry. It is has a higher level of corrosion resistance than 18-8.
Although I pull the pins before popping the hood; I adjusted height so if the hood is popped by mistake, the clevis pins are not hit at all. This reduces unneeded stress on the sheetmetal where they are attached. They still function, as a safety of course, and make you look faster too. Hope this all made sense.
Think it through twice, drill once! It's your hood your drilling! Enjoy.